donslow

Might help a bit with the colours above

If I used a grey primer would that make any difference to the final shade of the solid paint?!

id prefer to keep that kind of colour, I found these two, both of which look like it could be a close match 
 

https://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/product/desert-sand-nitrocellulose-lacquer-aerosol/
 

https://www.manchesterguitartech.co.uk/product/buttercream-nitrocellulose-lacquer-aerosol/

Started painting a 51 precision body today, el Classico butterscotch being the colour of choice

not entirely sure what I thought was going to happen once the translucent paint was on but now it is, that dark section of wood is driving me nuts...(Second photo with neck was after I dumped a whole can of paint on it)

options...

1. live with it

2. Sand back and paint with solid buttercream with a tinted clear coat to get close to butterscotch 

3. go for another colour completely

what would you guys and gals do?

opinions massively appreciated

PM’d re precision loom

1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

It's probably perfectly fine, @donslow

If it is a modern two-way rod, it is probable that it will have been laid in the slot with an end stop at the heel end before the capping strip and/or fretboard has been fitted.

Usually, the rod will be tight enough in the slot to stay where it is but the rod is never glued in.  Some builders pop a couple of spots of flexible filler in a couple of places to stop the possibility of it rattling, but it won't rattle once it is tensioned so many don't.

So - it depends on the rod and the slot - in many cases an un-tensioned rod could theoretically move.  And yes - if it does, you can just move it back until the other end hits the end stop.

I have built a few necks, on specific request, where folks actually want the ability to pull the rod right out for replacement.  All you have to do is basically build it without a headstock plate and have a longer trussrod cover and then grab the adjuster with some needle-nose pliers and pull!  In fact, weren't the early Warwicks done like that?

Anyway - it will have done no harm and you were right to just tap it back  

Much obliged for the input sir! Makes a lot of sense...

I suspected it’d be alright but just wanted to double check, as I say, a few gentle taps and it went down until it could no more, seems to be turning now without any excessive force or looseness
 

if it’s worth anything to help with your suggestion, it’s an Ibanez sr300 neck, if that makes any difference at all?!

@Bigguy2017, thanks for that! Seems to be turning ok, need to get it all back together before I can tell if it’s working or not but will keep your suggestion in mind

Didn’t think of taking any but can take some “after I tapped it back down” pictures if that’s of any use?!

im reasonably confident it’ll be alright As it SEEMS to be turning ok but without the body here I can’t really “test” it so to speak, there’s just a little niggle batting away in my head questioning

”should it have been as easy as that?!”

So I have been painting a neck of late, couple of “why is this happening?” Queries later, all back to normal and looking great...until...

I dropped the damn neck and it hit the floor headstock first! DAMMIT!!

first inspection...bit of a paint chip but nothing more, no problem

second inspection...the truss rod nut is about 10mm higher than it has ever been...oh dear...

bright idea, Allen key in nut, couple of gentle taps with a hammer, and truss rod nut is back in its hidey hole! Great!

Afterthought(s)

should I have done that?

Have I potentially damaged the truss rod by doing that?

should I have consulted the BC gods before doing that?

points to note...

truss rod worked perfectly fine before I took the bass apart

the drop was no more than about 2 feet and not an exceptionally heavy landing

any thoughts / comments / slapping on the  wrist very much welcome...

I’ve been using the very same planet waves cable for guitars and basses for about 8 years now, the damn thing just won’t give up...

Mostly as I suspected! Just waiting for lacquer to arrive and then I can get cracking now that the finish is starting to get to how it should be,

Thanks @Maude, some very useful info to chew over!

one question if I may?!

ive since moved the neck outside in the sun, sanded and repainted and the finish is as it should be, would you know, if I left it in the sun to dry with the blooming, if I spray clear lacquer on top, would the “shade” still be that of the blooming or would it disappear so to speak?!

1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Excellent job!

...and that IS what I call a cellar!  Mine is around 8'x4' 

It’s a massive space, we’re in a bungalow on a hill, the cellar is the size of the house, takes up the distance between hill and house, but it’s only about 6 foot high with steel girders hanging down with very strategic “crack your head on this“ placement, never stop doing it and it hurts like a bugger every time! The fact I’m bald means you always see every lump and cut when it does happen ha ha

39 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

Top job 👍

Ha ha thankyou but it doesn’t work because it’s in the finish-ruining-cellar ha ha

now what to do with my home made “spray booth”

Voila!
 

Out of the cellar and finish is as it should be!

@kodiakblair couldn’t have done it without your help

thank you all for all the advice and help, only a minor job but some invaluable advice

next job complete, measure 3 times, drill once...

now to finish the body’s paint job...

Wondering though...

Bit better I would say...little bit more smoothing and I think we’re there!

Any eagle-eyed people see where improvements can be made?!

before...

after...

I think your right!

I sprayed a guitar body in the cellar 6 weeks ago, and although the finish is as good as it will get, the paint STILL hasn’t dried or gone hard, still unsure whether that’s because it’s cheap paint (the paint on the neck from this post dried and went rock solid in a couple of days) or the conditions aren’t ideal, I’m still not sure but I’m thinking 6 weeks can’t be Right in anyone’s book?!

5 minutes ago, Reggaebass said:

I think you’re right, if it’s a bit cold or there’s moisture present it will get what looks like almost white patches on the surface, it can be nibbed back and re sprayed, maybe put a heater down there while you’re working 🙂

Will give that a go today, may even drag it outside in the sun this afternoon

1 hour ago, Reggaebass said:

Not sure if this helps but,     Next to my joinery shop there was a spray shop , and I’ve seen that happen to some of the finishes in there, it was caused by a drop in temperature while drying, not sure if that happened to yours, but it should be warm and constant while drying, they had to re sand it using fine contour pads and re spray 🙂

for what hits worth, I’m painting in the cellar under my house, it’s pretty dry and normally colder than anywhere else but it does have all the plumbing / drainage pipes running through it (could be moisture source)

1 hour ago, Geek99 said:

I leave the cans in a bucket of warm water first - I’ve sprayed outside without issues 

This could be a good shout, 

7 hours ago, Dirty Soul said:

This looks like blooming/blushing to me. 

When the solvent evaporates and the paint dries, heat is extracted from the surface and the paint, drying it quickly. If any moisture is present this will condensate causing blooming. 
 

It’s possible to correct it with a clear varnish however it is better to avoid it in the first place by not painting where humidity is present. 

Makes sense but would that happen on just some parts of the neck?!

do you think going over it with clear Gloss nitro would rectify it somewhat?!

Can anyone explain why this is happening?!
 

The paint is dry but it’s dried with a matte finish (particularly the headstock) in places and glossy black (as it should) in others
 

confused :-s