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dodge_bass

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Posts posted by dodge_bass

  1. 21 minutes ago, bassfan said:

    I have looked at those... they are quite big though and I don’t have much room left. Good shout though, thanks. 

    Source Audio C4 synth is the one then - small footprint, easy user interface and LOADS of presents available online. EHXsynth9 is a bit of a waste of time compared to what else is available these days IMHO. 

    • Like 2
  2. I thought I'd revisit my decibel readings as well cos, well why not, this is a cool thread. 90db inside the studio (VERY loud for me, I monitor much more quietly than that  and 55db ish outside the studio next to the side window. Tiny bit of noise of the back alley but hard to pin point exactly where it's coming from if you didn't know.

    Pretty good I reckon, and basically at lower volume there's no obvious bleed out of the studio so I"m not disturbing anyone nor alerting 'ner do wells' to its presence :)

    • Like 1
  3. 1 hour ago, lurksalot said:

    But of a misnomer that one , mass helps, so 6mm or 8mm glass will cut down noise transmission , but triple 4mm is nothing special and not worth the added cost , argon gas in the units will help 

     

    That's interesting to know, I think the side window (triple glazed) in my studio had argon but not sure about the thickness of the glass. Not sure about the two Velux loft windows though Having said that though they all do an excellent job of killing the sound which is the main thing.  But I'm gonna make a note of that in case I ever get the chance to build another home studio. Thanks! 

  4. 6 minutes ago, WHUFC BASS said:

    It's won't be cheap, I'll tell you that now. I reckon if someone can do all the work themselves, they'd save a lot, but unfortunately I put my back out years ago (bulging disc and sciatica) and it's been a constant niggle ever since. The most annoying thing was I was a bricklayer for years but have come to the conclusion that I can't do it any more unless I want to spend my time in a hell of a lot of pain.

    Good question. Just for the sound proofing (not the acoustic treatment) I'm going to insulate with soundproof with 50mm Celotex between a wooden stud and then use 12.5mm soundproof plasterboard. On the ceiling I'll be going for 100mm Celotex along with 15mm soundproof board. For the window I'm just going for standard UPVC window and probably hang a heavy lined curtain in front. Same goes for the door too.

    I've thought that about that and am thinking either coating the entire floor in blackjack before the flooring goes down or as well as that, building a single course of bricks under the door with another damproof membrane which goes behind the skirting and under the door. No doubt there'll be some expanding foam involved too.

    I was advised by a number of folk that using double plaster board was a cheaper and better alternative to special acoustic plasterboard....might be worth looking into. Also I hung the plasterboard off the wooden stud with aluminium rails so that it was basically 'floating' so less vibrations could get though.  

    https://www.noisestopsystems.co.uk/shop/wall-soundproofing/soundbreaker-bars/

  5. Recording upright bass - there’s a rabbit hole you’ll never get out of! I’ve found that a very small diaphragm mic

    (I use https://www.audio-technica.com/en-gb/pro35?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0caCBhCIARIsAGAfuMw2mk8_d3MJYlF4QHWWHMJCLV9hGEPGl_GebfG9TtuYDBlmMEbEDzEaAl9eEALw_wcB#701=298)

    has worked wonders for my bass. started with a Rode NT2a which was great but quite boomy and a bit uneven. I’ve also accepted that I need to do quite a lot of post recording EQ and multi band compression to really even it out. And for me the main surprise has been just how much bottom end I’ve had to cut out of the signal.

    Ultimately though upright basses are such individual beasts that you’ll just need to experiment lots until you find the sound you’re really into. Good luck and enjoy the ride!

    • Like 2
  6. 22 hours ago, Jakester said:

    Ah, so not 'fit and forget'. Ah well. I will keep playing then. Deffo set to 100% wet! When I can get it working it's great.

     

    22 hours ago, Al Krow said:

    Yup it's a shame you can't simply flip from up and down sweep settings, but that is true for most analogue filters that have both up and down filter sweeps.

    It definitely repays investment in careful tweaking - as you say when you get it working optimally it's great!

    FWIW it's the best filter I've had, for me easily beating the MXR M82 and Aguilar Filter Twin and even the juicy Fwonkbeta; I only moved it on because the more recent 3 Leaf Proton Mk4 matches a lot (but certainly not all) of what the GR2 can do but in smaller form factor.

    Agreed - these take a while to really dial in the sound so lots of messing on and tweaking will really help here. I’m only use a passive P bass into mine and it triggers fine so it’s perhaps just your settings? I’ll try dig out a pic of my settings. 

  7. On 21/02/2021 at 10:05, RaNoFuNkY said:

    Does anyone know of an EQ pedal which has its own effects loop?

    By switching on such a pedal, it would engage all the pedals in the effects loop, and applies the EQ? It would need EQ and gain/level control.

    The EHX Tri Parallel Mixer comes close - but is a little overkill for my needs. I'm looking for a smaller footprint too. 

    If not, I'll just use a simple loop pedal, and include a separate EQ pedal at the end of that loop's signal.

    Thanks

    Probably easier to just use the loop pedal with an EQ pedal in that loop. I don't think I"ve ever seen a loop pedal with that kind of functionality (doesn't mean it doesn't exist though!!). 

  8. 6 minutes ago, ped said:

    It’s good that it doesn’t need powering as I am a noise freak and want option A to be a 100% clean and silent path

    Ah yes the power is just for the LED as I recall? I have a Southampton pedals one that is the same. Enjoy :) 

    • Like 1
  9. @bassist_lewis most of the Tech21 stuff will do a good job of recreating that Motown sound effectively. Aside from that the Dave Hall stuff has an actual valve in it and is really effective. I played in a funk / soul band that toured for a decade so I've been down this path!

    Ultimately I've ended up with a Noble but the Tech21 BSDR and the Aguilar Tone Hammer do a brilliant job at a much lower price (and good size too). You'll pick either of those two up fairly easily and cheaply second hand. 

     

    Here's a recording - P bass / flats and Tech 21 DI. Not a bad sound I'd say : ) 

    • Like 5
  10. 2 hours ago, Lozz196 said:

    I had my amp set flat and got my eq/drive from my preamp pedal, in my case a Tech21 Para Driver. I did this as on the originals circuit it was either gear shares or provided rigs, this way I knew what was going to FOH was the right sound. For on stage whatever amp/cab I was using I’d either boost or lower the low-end. Made life so much easier, especially on gigs where we flew. 

    Same. Preamp / DI sends the tone I know is excellent to FOH and then any onstage issues can be dealt with by using the EQ on the amp which doesn't affect the DI-d signal. Also means I can do lots of home recording with the DI and really get to know how it sounds so I can be super confident I'm sending the best sound to FOH. And likewise any time you're flying or sharing rigs you know you've got your own tone with you. Win win win. 

    • Like 2
  11. 5 minutes ago, GisserD said:

    I have not much to add to tge above except... 

    imho the aguilar does better at retaining the tone of the instrument, but kind of halves the pitch. 

    All other octavers I've tried add a sub "synthlike" note under the note your playing.

    The aggie is my main octave of choice for this reason. 

     

    The EHX POG is very clean and tracks very well too but still introduces a bit of a synth like sound. 

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