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jamesf

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Everything posted by jamesf

  1. I'd personally love a singlecut design, but would worry about the weight of it - anyone know if this is an issue? I think some people have just got it right when it comes to singlecut designs (Sei and Shuker spring to mind), and the shape of the flow of the solid upper 'horn?' into the neck really sets them apart from the stunted-looking ones. I mainly want one because of the neck stability and sustain, but they are unjustifiably expensive compared to many other excellent basses. I love the shape of my Bass Collection at the moment - any high end clones knocking around?
  2. Bump for price drop, £75 posted without case, need to make room for a new arrival!
  3. Bump for price drop, now £115 delivered in hard case, £75 without case. J [edit] the guitar isn't actually pink! it's a medium-dark red and translucent orange in the middle! stupid camera-phone! [/edit]
  4. Hi guys, I've sold a couple of things recently, so let me (and others) know how efficient (or otherwise!) I am. James.
  5. It also depends on what kind of sound you're after - for a brighter tone you need to change them more often because they dull over time, but for a duller tone worn strings are fantastic and may fit some styles better. My Hohner B2A Pro has had the same strings on since 1992! (i've been meaning to change them for the past five years but keep putting off buying new strings for a bass I hardly play!) My Squier J|P has had the same strings since 1999 but they sound thunderous and barky in the lows so I've just kept going with them. OTOH, I change strings on my stingray whenever I can afford to because I love the zinginess on it, which gives contrast to my other basses. For playing metal, a zingy trebly sound can be amazing, but it's an expensive sound to maintain. Instead of just boiling strings, I put them in a pan of boiling water, and add a couple of tablespoons of bicarbonate of soda, it works a treat and they come up nice. edit: I should really type faster!
  6. Hi, since this g**t*r hasn't left it's case for nigh on 4 years, it's time for it to move on, not least because I'm after a shiny 5 string bass. It's a great guitar, really low action, fast comfortable player and nice sounding pickups. Gorgeous to look at too. It has a couple of electrical faults at present - one of the pots is broken due to me putting on a knob on that was too small for the pot, and when I pulled it off again it ripped the centre out so now it goes in and out like a push/pull but doesn't actually pass signal. This will obviously need to be replaced. At some point I swapped out the pickups for some Duncans, but they sounded rubbish compared to the stock ones so back in they went. There is some buckle rash to the back of the guitar, and the bridge and pickup plating is wearing off round the edges from contact with my sweaty teenage mitts. It's in a custom made flight case at the moment, made for me by the Stagebox in Blackpool, and, as you can see from the photos, is in a tasteful blue carpet with galvy corners on the outside, and a leopard print fur on the inside; This truly is the guitar case of a pimp-daddy. If you don't want the case (and I'm more than happy to keep it for when I get another headless bass) then I'll obviously knock some off the price, but I will have to go and find a load of boxes to cannibalise to make a guitar-worthy postage receptacle. The guitar doesn't currently have strap buttons because it had schaller locks which were donated to one of my basses, but I sort of know where they are and will re-unite them with the guitar before posting! £130 posted in b1tchn' hardcase, all proceeds go to the GAS fund. Make me an offer on the case alone if you like, and as alwats, if you're local, come and have a bash before you buy, it's a great playing guitar that's unfortunately become wardrobe fodder. Come and pick it up yourself if you're local, and I'll deliver it myself within a reasonable distance if it's mutually convenient. Now £75 posted without case, £100 with case J
  7. Hi, it's taking a lot of effort to bring myself to sell this, but I just don't need all that power! This is a BFM Omni 10, loaded with 2 x Eminence Deltalite II 2510 drivers, and a 4 x piezo array. It weighs 21kg, is 500 watts @ 4 Ohms, is solid construction, carpet covered, and in perfect condition, having only moved from workshop to bedroom and back a few times. The connection is by Neutrik locking jack, and the internal wiring is van damme cable, and there's acoustic foam lining the back. I can change the connector to a Neutrik Speakon connector if you prefer, as I've just got some spares in the post. It sounds simply wonderful, it's loud and versatile, and the mid/high clarity is nothing short of stunning. The frequency response is very flat, and therefore the cab is very controllable. I also built two of the half-sized omni 10.5 cabs, one of which I am keeping for the forseeable future as it's also stunning. I'm not gigging at the moment, and this cab has been sat looking pretty for months now, and it really should go to someone who'll gig it. It's phenomenally loud, has great projection, and sound superb with my Phil Jones amplification, and also with Markbass - it's perfectly paired to an LMII (everything from subtle woody jazz to all-out tappy tappy zingy slap action is available)- 450 watts at 4 Ohms IIRC, and as already mentioned only weighs 21kg so it's a very light, all in one gigging machine. I don't want to get rid of it because it is stunning, but I need the space and could do with the cash also. If you're not too far from Blackpool I'll deliver it personally so you can have a play and check that you're happy. Alternatively, PM me if you're local and want to come and have a bash at it, you're more than welcome to try before you buy! Any questions about the cab, PM me, I know every square inch of it! In the 'group photo', it's the big cab at the bottom of the 1000 watt monster stack! NOW £350 POSTED IN MAINLAND UK I've been using this cab at home with my recently acquired Markbass LMII and it's a great combination - but to be honest I'm more than happy using just the half-sized cab and LMII - I really don't need the extra 250 watts at the moment! I've been testing it with music playing from my mackie onyx interface into the line input of the markbass, and the clarity across the spectrum is stunning. I'd have no hesitation in using this as a PA speaker as well as as a bass cab. J NOW TRADED FOR A LOVELY SIX-STRING, THANKS FOR THE INTEREST EVERYONE!!
  8. Having read this thread and had a good, rational look at the status of my musical menagerie, I have come to the conclusion that I have a ridiculous amount of gear just sitting there, looking pretty, but realistically it's never going to get used. I use stingray -> phil jones (a bass buddy, not phil himself!) -> power amp -> BFM omni 10.5 70% of the time, and a Squier P-Special un-amped 30% of the time because it doesn't have a case and handily lies around all over the place so I can pick it up and play anytime without getting stuff out of cases etc. The gear which is superflous (and I've actually sold a few others recently) includes: Hohner B2A Pro, in red, in a leather gig bag I made for it SGC Nanyo Bass Collection SB300, a proper one, in matt purple (never seen another in the same colour), in mint condition Hohner RP200 Pro les paul copy guitar, in orange/red sunburst Fender Stratocaster, matt purple, maple fretboard, black pickguard Cheapo Chinese acoustic guitar no.2 (no.1 sold last week), in black/blue burst BFM Omni 10 - loaded with Eminence deltalite II 2510 drivers and 4 piezo array (just the little cab is more than enough for me! Kustom (from argos!) 40watt guitar amp Rode fishpole boom and now, sadly, 2 x Rode NT2000 It's occurred to me that if I got rid of some of this, not only would I have a huge amount of space in my house, but I could actually afford a really nice 5-string like I've promising myself for ages, and a sub to go with the omni 10.5 so I can have a bi-amped rig using the spare half of the power amp. That'd leave me with a stingray and 5er -> phil jones -> 2 way active crossover -> amp -> BFM omni 10.5 -> Some kind of horn sub, probably a BFM That setup would make me very happy, so why am I clinging on to a load of gear that never gets used (some of them haven't seen the light of day for 5 years!) Upon looking at it, this might turn into a feeler later on tonight... give a bass/cab/accessory a good home anybody? J (now the musical equivalent of a bag-lady)
  9. Hi again, just tested extensively at all volumes, much to the annoyance of everybody in my house! I've heard no problems through the mid range, with every note sounding clear and consistent, in all of the settings. I tested it with a range of dynamics, and still no problematic noise issues. There's a certain amount of noise from the speakers, but this is only realistically audible <50mm distance from the speakers, and does not relate to the problem you describe, only to the limitations of the amplifier built in to the piano. The piano is working fine in all respects through the internal speakers, and is quite a lot louder than I first thought! It has not, to the best of my knowledge, needed or had any repair work done on it at all. I hope this answers your questions, you're more than welcome to come and have a bash yourself if you live locally. Anything else, don't hesitate to ask, I'll try to confirm or test anything you like (relating to the piano of course!). James.
  10. [quote name='Gizmo' post='264147' date='Aug 17 2008, 08:15 PM']Hey James I had a word with my bro about this and he's pretty interested in this piano but is wondering if your sis has had the reported problem with a noise in mid range note through the builtin speakers has this unit shown signs or had this problem? if so has it had any warranty repair done to it? Cheers Steve[/quote] Hi Steve, I have the piano downstairs so I'll go and have a bash and see if I can hear any noise through the middle octaves. My sister hasn't said anything about it, but I'll check as I have much better trained ears J
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  13. Bump for price drop, now £95 delivered - includes sustain pedal and manuals. Very lightweight piano, weighs less than most keyboards.
  14. Hi guys, getcha photos here: Only used in a humidity-controlled studio and never gigged, always stored in hard case with silica gel to stop the capsules getting moist, I am the ultimate pedant when it comes to my music gear! Unsure of age, but the serials are 45937 and 45938 - the serial number stickers are still on the hard case so you can identify different pairs from the locker if you have multiple pairs of them. If you need any more specific photos, I'll see what I can do, but it is only a camera phone which appears to be full of sand at the moment, so don't expect david bellamy... J
  15. Hi, I'm selling a matched pair of Rode NT5, with clips and windshields in the original hard case. Both mics work perfectly, but there is a slight bit of oxidation on the bodies. Great first pair of cardioid SDC's, better than any eBay special out there (I've used most oft them!). I'm only selling these as I have changed to a pair of large diaphragm multi-pattern condensers (Rode NT2000) for recording classical as they suit my recording style more (but cost me a small fortune!). I've used them on drum overheads, acoustic guitar, piano, percussion (tuned and otherwise) and even vocals in an emergency, and they gave more than acceptable results every time. Don't expect Schoeps quality, but they're the best SDC pair you can buy under £400 and if you need a good pair of all-rounders for studio and taping, these are a great place to start. Check out some reviews, and on the Rode website (http://www.rodemic.com) there's an alluring Australian girl who'll tell you all about them! £175 posted in UK, will consider offers - need to make some space in the mic locker for the HUGE NT2000 cases! Any questions, PM me or post them in the thread if they'll be of benefit to everybody. J
  16. [quote name='bennifer' post='260502' date='Aug 12 2008, 12:19 AM']Yeah its a pretty cool little bit of kit and I know what you mean, why did you get rid of the Mackie? Im only getting rid of this to move up to something like that! If it doesn't go by auction on ebay i'll speak to you about your offer! Cheers![/quote] I got rid of the Mackie because it was taking up too much space in my room at uni - they're really good units but watch the faders - I had to replace two faders because the motors went bezerk, but they're standard penny&giles optical units which are easy to fit. I sold about 40 bits of recording gear all at once, and the only part of the mackie I was using regularly was the transport controls - hence my interest in your faderport, it looks like a nifty solution! So I couldn't really justify having a full control surface just for that - wish I hadn't sold it though, banks of moving faders make me look like I know what I'm doing! J
  17. looks cool, after getting rid of my mackie control surface i'm missing tactile mixing.... I've got £50 waiting for you if you're desperate - can't afford any more ATM, sorry!! J
  18. Hi, I have a weird shrunken bass for sale, the strings are really thin and the scale length is waay too short - I don't know what kind of sick puppy dreamed this up but it's freaking me out a little. With gig bag, and semi-fresh strings, made in China, made by Martin Smith (if he hadn't signed his surname it'd be worth a lot more, eh?), in blue/black with dings scratches, and some cat hair. I really have no use for it as I already have a (semi)nice acoustic, so shall we say £50 delivered to mainland UK or offers? again, pickup welcome to save postage and damage, although I'll pack it as well as I can. James.
  19. Hi, I'm selling a Yamaha NP-30 digital piano, pretty much as new condition, has built in speakers, can run on batteries (i think), 76 keys, a few useable sounds and a metronome, and it's the silver version not the black one. I can't play the piano with both hands (they seem to get along fine-ish playing bass but get lost on a piano!) so my two-octave MIDI controller keyboard is fine for my use. This can be used a MIDI master keyboard, as well as accepting MIDI in to make use of it as a playback sound module. £100 delivered in mainland UK, I'll try and pack it as well as I can, pickup welcome if you're local - you're welcome to come and have a play and see if you like it first! [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B000RTBBEI/interactiveda3040-21"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/B...activeda3040-21[/url] <-- this is the black version, but same piano. I'll accept sensible offers, but I'm selling this for my sister, so I'm not giving it away as she needs money to fund her phD James.
  20. Van Halen - Best of Both Worlds Just driven from Blackpool to Brighton and back in two days, my radio packed up and the only tape (yes I know) in my car was Aerosmith - Big Ones - What a great collection of songs; kept me rockin' for 600 miles anyway! J
  21. Ok, here goes my 2p. I've been recording for a few years now, and have gone through more gear than I care to think about in my home 'studio'. I'd concur with a lot of the advice already given, that you really do get what you pay for when it comes to audio gear. However, don't let that put you off in the slightest, because there are high-quality bargains out there! Firstly, it's great that you have Cubase and are learning how to use it at college - It's becoming an ever-increasingly viable and cheap alternative to ProTools, and using Cubase means that, without the added expense of a Mac, you have a lot more of your studio budget to buy high quality gear! I've spent a long time (and I mean I'm now visibly older as a result!) searching for a low-cost, high quality audio interface without any extraneous features, that will do a solid job, and will have a place in my rig long after I've bought more expensive gear; and I think I've found it. If you only need two channels in and out, (are you seriously going to record more than two channels on a regular basis?), I highly recommend the interface I have been using for the past seven months, the Mackie Onyx Satellite. They have come down from £500 to about £120 new, and they can be had for around £60 on ebay. Consider that they have the same AKM converters as the DIGI192i/o (£2800 for 8 channels), and two Onyx preamps, which are much sweeter and cleaner sounding than the focusrite equivalents, plus a plethora or routing options, full talkback facilities, surround monitoring twin independently controlled headphone outs, and you've got one hell of an interface for a mere £60. It sounds great, both in terms of AD/DA, and in terms of Preamps - and I've worked with some seriously expensive gear! Long after I've bought multichannel high-quality AD, this will be used as my main DA stage and monitor controller. Next, you want some monitors; these are where most of your budget should be going, as they will make the biggest difference to your setup if you haven't owned any before. I've conducted lots of blind testings of monitors and HIFI speakers (contrary to popular belief, monitors should be representative AND flat otherwise your mixes won't translate too well to domestic systems, and some high end HIFI speakers such as B&W Nautilus have proven to work better in the studio than some high-end monitors!), having done a BA(Hons) in Music Technology, with a specialism in acoustic design, and some of the best speakers in every test have been the humble JBL Control 1 - passive speakers which cost about £80 a pair used - they're my main monitors, combined with a Samson Servo 260, and do a fine job. Again, they'll be in my studio long after I have Genelec or ATC monitoring installed! Unless you have a LOT of money to spend, I wouldn't get a mixing desk unless you feel some medical need to own one to feel like a 'proper' home studio - cheap ones are cheap for a reason; I went through 7 cheap mixers in 6 months once, no joke, and after that decided that it wasn't worth the hassle, they sounded much worse than just mixing in the box, and cost a lot of money and stress that I just don't need! You'll also have to have enough channels of AD/DA to be able to justify it as well, otherwise the spare channels will just be gathering dust. It's up to you though, mixers can look totally awesome, even though they can sound like @rse! The Mackie Satellite will perform all the functions, and many more, that you will get with a cheap mixer, and it'll do a damn better job of it too. Microphones are a different kettle of fish altogether. The subjectivity of microphone/instrument pairing is to recording nerds like me, like a quest to find the perfect bass to bass nerds, again, like me Your best bet is to decide which instruments you're going to be recording, and what mics generally suit which applications, and which come in on budget! When you're starting out, you can't go wrong with an SM57 - I wouldn't go with the cheaper option because you'll need to upgrade to something better in the future, and an SM57 will have a place in your studio even when it's a million pound room! It's an industry standard for a reason, and sounds great on male metal vocals, and of course as a top mic on snare, on guitar cabs, toms, and even kick drum in a emergency. You may want to get a pair of small diaphragm condensers to play with stereo recording, and a full drum kit can be recorded with exceptional results using only a pair of overheads, carefully selected and positioned. The kick, snare, tom and room mics are generally only there to add weight to the overhead sound, which constitutes most of the drum mix you hear on a finished record. I'd recommend a Rode NT5 matched pair, they're good enough to learn with, but don't pay retail price for them. A good pair can be had for about £175. A large diaphragm multi-pattern condenser could be added to your mic locker after a while, but don't go for any bargain-basement 'bay specials as you'll never get rid of them once it comes time to upgrade. Buy used, buy good quality all the way. Don't forget to budget for cables and stands, either. Buying good cables at the start will save you a lot of money in the long run. Buy Van Damme/Neutrik cables and they'll last you a lifetime - but again, don't pay ridiculous dealer prices, there are some great people on the 'bay that'll make them up any length you want for very little money. Ok, just realised I've written quite a lot so I'll shut up now. If you can't tell already, I can spout on about this stuff for days on end, but just wanted to give some honest advice from my experience. I teach on the Music Technology A Level, and honestly don't get official time to talk about the fun bits of music tech, but I try to impart some practical wisdom from time to time! If you want to talk recording and studio gear, PM me anytime. J PS. The M-Audio PCI soundcards are great quality, really cheap, and you can use ProTools M-Powered with them if you don't want to go the firewire route. You'll need some pre's though, damn, here I go again...
  22. I played an Epiphone a couple weeks ago, to be honest I wasn't really taking notes as I was blown away by the novelty of the whole experience, but it did have a bit of roll like the Tbird, but no noticeable neck dive - in fact the one I played was quite well balanced, and very light weight. I liked the feel of it, but trying to play it sitting down is a big no, as you'd expect - the rubber grippy strip thing does absolutely nothing and is a token gesture. Due to it having two humbuckers, it's a quite meaty, classic passive sound which would sound great for old-school rock, but quite lost for anything modern unless you've got some serious preamplification. I'd say buy one, they look amazing, feel great, but the hard cases are absolutely HUGE! If not for anything else, just buy it for the novelty - after playing one with a natural finish and black pickguard, I had to try really hard not to part with cash, as I now believe my life isn't quite as complete as I had previously believed... go try one now!!
  23. I've just been answering that very question for someone else! The model number of the receiver is ATW-R03, and the model number for the transmitter unit is ATW-T27
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