planethead

[quote name='neepheid' post='341964' date='Dec 1 2008, 03:23 PM']I would still be interested to read the discussion you mentioned, if you can dig the link out [/quote] Found it re-read it - faulty memory (please read avatar for probable cause ;-), but there's a nice picture by way of compensation [url="http://www.mimf.com/cgi-bin/[email protected]@.2cb68ac6"]here[/url] ttfn

[quote name='neepheid' post='341945' date='Dec 1 2008, 02:39 PM']Well, if it's about how the interlocking grain makes it a pain to work both with hand and power tools and the fact that it stinks when you cut it then I know [i]all[/i] about it [/quote] a line from "The Zebranos" perhaps? let us never speak of it again... :-)

[quote name='neepheid' post='341920' date='Dec 1 2008, 02:07 PM']I cannot compare, but I can vouch for the quality of MGT's nitro cans - dare I say it - does exactly what it says on the tin. Goes on easy and I was pleased with the finish I achieved.[/quote] Excellent I was leaning towards his stuff except he doesn't appear to offer a satin - I suppose I could go gloss then tone it down. with a paste. ttfn BTW found an interesting discussion on Zebrano the other day (you're in that part of the woods I think) - if I can find it again I'll edit this post with a link.

Anyone with experience using NC lacquer from either Tonetech or the Manchester Guitar Tech. Is it the same stuff and does one spray better than t'other etc. ttfn

[quote name='Beedster' post='340379' date='Nov 29 2008, 11:33 AM']Hi folks I've stripped a few bodies in the past; the first I did using sandpaper and it took a few weeks, the second I did using an electric sander and it took a few hours, the last couple I did I used Nitromors, and they took a few minutes. The latter approach seems preferable but I was told recently by someone qualified to have an opinion that Nitromors should not be used on guitars. Problem is, I can't remember his rationale, it may have been because it damages the wood, or because it makes refinishing the instrument harder, but he seemed quite dogmatic on the issue (of course, it's possible that as someone who makes a living refinishing guitars he simply doesn't want chaps like me DIYing it ). Any advice/experience/observations would be greatly appreciated Chris[/quote] Nitromors (no 'e'! LEWIS!!!!) can cause problems once you're down to bare wood it soaks in a lot deeper than you'd think and may cause discolouration. Whether this is a result of chemical reaction to other stuff in the wood or just the deep cleaning power of the N I don't know. I've used it to take off thinly applied shellac but not so far to remove nitrocellulose paints - its in this area I think problems lie. I'm still on a learning curve. [url="http://www.reranch.com/101.htm"]This[/url] has been incredibly useful so far, hope it helps ttfn Ian

[quote name='coasterbass' post='339844' date='Nov 28 2008, 04:46 PM']I think that jakebass is actually more (in)famous than marcbass now....[/quote] be careful what you wish for... ;-)

...you could convert one of those old Hoover 'cylinder' vacuums with a driver in each end or possibly an old blender, mount the amp on the de-speeded rotor, watch it spin as you play...! I've been wondering what to do with this for some time. Could be a toaster-amp! [attachment=16297:ad515.jpg] ttfn

[url="http://www.liutaiomottola.com/electronics/ampuum.htm"]outstanding![/url] EDIT: Check out the myths section. v good. He appears to be one of the few people to conduct experiments to determine the pros and cons of neck/body construction etc.

[quote name='Dan_Nailed' post='334692' date='Nov 23 2008, 01:25 AM']Left the pots on the preamps to ease installation for the next buyer, and I really like the look of the basses with just two pots! I like the Nedster idea but I can't go cutting into the basses for scraps...one is gloss and the other is solid flame maple. I like the dowel idea - the holes are 1/4"...[/quote] for sure on an unfinished bass relatively easy to hide.. definitely not something to damage the existing bass to fix. Good luck with it. ttfn

[quote name='BigRedX' post='329759' date='Nov 15 2008, 06:08 PM']It might also be worth posting this question in the Luthiers Forum on TalkBass[/quote] Thanks for that now on TB and another [url="http://www.mimf.com"]Musical Instrument Makers Forum[/url] possibly a little formal for some but seems to have a range of talent. ttfn

had the same problem on the Nedster - check out the pics about half way down [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=30038"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=30038[/url] hope it helps ttfn

Sounds familiar. Could be problem with the height of the A string between the nut and and the tuning peg - if it seems higher than the rest press down (or slide a plectrum under E over A under D) to see if buzz disappears. ttfn

Thinking about building a short scale copy of the Ned Callan currently being restored in the Build Diaries. Having scored a nice plank of honduras mahogany over 2 metres long there's enough to build a complete instrument in one piece. It appears there are conflicting arguments around single piece instruments. Most people seem to agree that tone is improved because the integrity of the wood remains intact but others say single piece instruments are prone to splitting cracking warping etc the neck being especially vulnerable; more so on a bass when made from a single piece of mahogany! Everyone agrees laminated necks improve strength... I thought one way to combine both approaches would be cutting the body and a central neck fillet as one piece, then cutting additional longer fillets to joint into the body and laminate to the central fillet. This would keep the neck 'connected' to the body but supported from swaying by the jointed sections. I don't know if this is how it's done by professional luthiers, would welcome any thoughts, suggestions or links to tutorials? EDIT: Just found this [url="http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bodies,_necks,_wood/Bass_guitar:_Necks/1/Bass_Neck_Blanks/Instructions/I-5200.html"]article[/url] at StewMac So my other (and simpler) option is cut the neck body as one piece and glue wings either side. ttfn

[quote name='lowhand_mike' post='328167' date='Nov 13 2008, 09:48 AM']well thats kind of the tac that i have gone down. "its a bit old and knackered, probably doesn't even work but i don't mind that would do as a nice little project and i need something that it doesnt matter if it takes a beating..." kind of thing still waiting to get a response back on it at the mo though, i can't get there till the weekend.[/quote] owned a hiwatt custom 100 in the early 90's let it go for a song - cost to replace it in the early 00's (direct from Hiwatt) over £1300.00!!! ttfn

V useful site for those interested in instrument making with conscience! [url="http://www.globaltrees.org/proj.asp?id=23"]Soundwood[/url] Apologies if its been posted elsewhere on the site or needs pinning somewhere else? ttfn

Sweety! (Swietenia macrophylla) [attachment=15937:honduras3.jpg] Interesting thoughts on [url="http://www.art-robb.co.uk/cons.html"]conservation[/url] ttfn

- using the "original" bridge fixing holes to guess length I think this was a short scale from the off. It's a shame it's been neglected because in its original state it was a sweet little beginners bass! No oomph but great for plunking along to the Wombles! It's possible the body/neck pocket was originally cut for long scale - not finished as such and then a short neck attached - it's a mystery. .. you can count the number of Ned Callans - with this style of 'Shergold-made' headstock/etching - on one hand ;-) Just found your link ref [url="http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/El_Guitar_Neck_Angle.htm"]here[/url]. Excellent. ttfn

I should put this enquiry into context first - currently breathing new life into the nedster [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=30038"]here![/url] It looks to me as if the neck (glued) came away from the body and was reset off centre to the original fender style bridge (fixing holes still visible) This was replaced with the Gibson-style 3 point, centered to the now off centre neck? I've replaced the 3 point with an HS Supertone, better sustain but the intonation's out at the 12th - this with the bridge saddles down and pulled back as far as they will go! - the "taller" HS bridge pushes the action to around 5-6mm : more longbow than bass! My thinking was to fill the pocket and re-rout. This would provide a stable method of repositioning the neck to a true centre line while shaping the heel angle to accommodate the higher bridge which may have to be moved back anyway. Also a good opportunity to use bolts instead of glue. ttfn

Thinking about filling/gluing new piece of wood into the neck pocket reshaping and then re-cutting to set a neck at the correct angle - anyone with experience of this - does it work more trouble than it's worth?? thanks in advance ttfn

Thanks both - I may have found what I'm looking for if not I'll be back... ttfn

Morning all seeking reliable source(s) for quality Mahogany or Obeche one piece body blanks - Mahogany particularly difficult to find in one chunk. thanks in advance ttfn

thanks for all the above. will keep you posted on progress. Just found this useful (I hope?) tutorial: [url="http://www.accesswave.ca/~derekn/routertutorial/"]http://www.accesswave.ca/~derekn/routertutorial/[/url] ttfn

I was trying to angle the edge of a replacement scratchplate for the nedster (build diary) - the router has a template 'plate' which screws into the base but leaves a gap so the cutter doesn't reach the sp - I thought it might be easier to do these fiddly jobs with a table presenting the work to the bit - I find the router a bit unwieldy. If I can get the hang of it I'll be routing at least two body blanks ,edges and voids, in the future (probably mahogany for a long scale version of the Ned Callan and obeche for a Hayman 4040 - all very English! ttfn

Afternoon all struggling to get to grips with my new router - is a small router table a worthwhile investment? ttfn