tombomb

Thanks a lot gents. G&L tapers out wider towards the bridge that the bird. Profile of necks different too, guess I just need to play more basses and find the neck I want. Appreciate all the time and comment, cheers!

Cheers gents. Ive Played a Mexican P which I found much easier than the L2k, sorely torn between bird and p-bass!

So I started playing bass about 18 months ago. Playing in a blusey rock band with a couple of mates to learn our craft! I got an L2000 as my first bass which is massively versatile but the neck has always seemed a little wide/big for me. Going for along the rock route I recently picked up an Epi T'bird. For my chubby fingers I find the neck easier to get on with on the bird, problem is the ridiculous neck dive. Looked into it and found a Gib Thunderbird Studio which selling the L2000 and Epi would pay for... Had a try tonight, great bassy tone, which fits with what we play. Neck dive less of an issue (still there though) and plays pretty nicely. Bit of buckle rash, finish was ok (not a patch on the G&L) Was really taken with it when I was there, but coming home and reflecting, now not so sure. Questions: Estimates on value of Gibby? Anyone played both and have thoughts? I'd like to try a P-deluxe, would I be impressed?

So when i said tomorrow... Footswitch didn't come and I then went on holiday for two weeks. Sorry for the delay umph the spare board is in the post Much to the dismay of the missus one of the first things I did upon getting back was get out the soldering iron... I got everything soldered and in place, and it was working but only with all the knobs up full, if I turned any of them down the volume just went with no discernable change in tone. Cue mass checking and un-soldering, only to realise that the three terminals on the tone pot were being shorted against the case. Oops. Cue mass re-soldering... Reflection on the build: 1 - I would use a bigger box if I were to do it again 2 - I need a better soldering iron, my £10 job with a massive chisel point nib just isn't good enough. 3 - Work on a real table - a few hours cross legged on the sofa working on the coffee table is condusive to lower back pain. 4 - It has been a very rewarding process learning lots of new skills; acid etching, accurate drilling and soldering. The smile and smug sense of self satisfaction when it works (IT ACTUALLY WORKS) is pretty immense. 5 - I like the tone but for a bit more beef put the signal through a behringer samsamp clone. Any thoughts on what I should build next? Here are some pics. 1 - My painted box... 2 - Internals showing component side of board 3 - Same but soldering side (very shoddy workmanship) 4 - Happy me with my new working muff. [attachment=115824:painted box.jpg] [attachment=115825:inside over.jpg] [attachment=115826:inside under.jpg] [attachment=115827:smile.jpg]

Do you know anyone with a pedestal drill. I've not seem the inside of these pedals so I don't know how full they are, but it should be a fairly do-able job. The input/output jacks can be de-housed using an adjustable spanner. You may be lucky enough that the wires inside are long enough to not need resoldering. Once you've drilled the new holes (prob 10mm) just remount the jacks. You should be able to find a couple of rubber grommits to fill the old hole from your local DIY shop for less than a quid. Upon reading again, that was in essence a long winded way of saying: 1 - Unscrew Jacks 2 - Drill new holes (take care not to drill any thing else!) 3 - remount jacks 4 - get grommits to fill holes. If you're unsure, take the back off the pedal and post a photo. If you don't know anyone with a drill then I could potentially help out in a couple of weeks when back from my hols! Pm me if you have any questions...

Sure. One of them was crap and I'm gonna build two so pm me an i'll send you the other one. Quality not amazing but it does the job. All the components now on the board, everything attached apart from the footswitch (I ordered the wrong one) Pics to follow and hopefully the finished article tomorrow!

Progress! Couple of pics for you: 1 - Halfway through etching, you can still see some copper left in the top left corner. 2 - 3 down, only one muff left to rub off.... (I'll get my coat) [attachment=110909:Halfway through etching.JPG] [attachment=110910:Rubbing out.JPG] Now to give some money to Mr Tweek....

My surname is "wood" Is that enough ammo?

I play blusey rock mostly, by face melting do you mean like crazy fuzz? Ovs I won't get it from this but I'm in a Mel Shacher phase at the mo. His tone (and ability) are something for me to properly aspire to. His sound apparently came from killing the tubes in his West. I can't bear to go in Maplins. But am worried I might have to for this. I'll check dr tweak first. Every single time I go in to Maplins I know more about the stuff than the staff who (the ones I've met at least) seem to be a string short of a set. Glad you like the topic title, i was sososososo tempted by "nice home-grown muff project"...

So been playing just over a year. Starting to get to grips with it a bit, but fancied a new project. Decided to try to build myself a pedal. Found a board design here: [url="http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_pcb.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a"]http://www.generalgu...68044a841b3e85a[/url] I work in a school so spoke to our DT technician and he found some old boards. Stage 1: Cleaned the boards up a bit with some emery and transferred the circuit onto them using an iron. Plan tomorrow is to put them into the acid, etch the circuit and drill the holes. Here's what I've done so far... [attachment=110831:copied circuit.JPG] They need a couple of gaps filling in. I'll do that tomorrow. Any tips for a first time pedal builder? I've not sourced a box,jack sockets or pots yet. Hoping to get resistors, caps etc from my science technician...