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Posts posted by HazBeen

  1. 15 hours ago, Andre_Passini said:

    I use to do it in a laser machine, then I use a saw to open the slot

    If I built any more basses than I do, I would get a CNC or laser just for that. But to be honest, for normal frets I use a jig which works really well and relatively quick. The fan fret makes is more of a hassle, and I don’t see myself do loads of those.

    • Like 1

  2. I am indeed doing the 35.5-33.5” one.... I hate slotting at the best of times, but now I cannot use my normal jig I am REALLY hating it. 5 slots in and all is well, but man it is an ordeal.... am going to take as long as I need.

    • Like 2

  3. 7 hours ago, Al Krow said:

    Ah yes TecAmp - I've heard the 212 used before and they're great. Is your 112 also a TecAmp?

    Still my main cabs, 2 L212s .... never been able to find a substitute and they haven’t missed a beat in the many years I owned them.

  4. Sometimes I tire myself.... I have decided that I now ideally want a 35.5 - 33.5” fan, not 35-33”. I bought a spare Ebony blank... hmmm, am I really going to do another? Decisions, decisions...

    • Like 2
    • Haha 1

  5. 24 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    Great service from Best Bass Gear in Kennebunk, Maine ... 5 calendar days from placement of order :)         They will definitely be going on my 'suppliers to use again in the future' list.

    +1, great supplier and they have loads of stuff

    • Like 1

  6. 2 minutes ago, Andyjr1515 said:

    Very nice indeed :)


    Thanks, soon I will address the biggest challenge... getting the neck right, incl. the flared part where it bolts to the body. But I think I have the right approach in mind for that.

  7. Body rounded, as it is is 2.45kg. And the wood I will take out for the control cavity, belly and arm cut, tuners and neck should be roughly the same as the weigh of the hardware, so that is where I am thinking we will end up. With the headless neck absolutely on track to stay below 4 kg,

    Quick mockup attached as well, just for fun :)






    • Like 7

  8. Did quite a lot over the weekend.

    - Both top and bottom now glued on (1 at a time). Bottom in first, got a really good glue up. Hope 2nd is as good.

    - Weight reduction cavities routed

    - Neck rough outline cut, trussrod and graphite rod slots routed

    - Devised a way to keep body shape as it and still be able to access the tuners

    - and a few more bits here and there....

    Apologies for the upside down pics, my iPad sometimes decides to flip pics when posting to BC.





    • Like 5

  9. Little bit of progress to report. Fronts and backs glued up. Also cleaned up body core (no pics, took down thickness some more (3.8 cm will be final thickness) and chambered.




    • Like 2

  10. Better with Ebony fretboard....fretboard and body core thicknessed.... body core is 2.6cm. So we will end up just over 4cm. Will be chambering the core, so weight will not be any issue.

    Next step, trussrod/graphite rods, fretboard and a million other things 😂


    • Like 1
    • Haha 1

  11. It is already decided and sorted :), ABM single string clamps.


    Neck blank and body core glued up.

    I still need to thickness the ash a little, so when I slap on 8mm walnut on both sides we get to 4 cm or just under. It was getting a bit late for my thicknesser’s volume and I prefer using a hand plane for the last few mm anyway, so glued the 2 halves and will sort the planing out when dry.

    I decided to go for the 3 ply, maple/wenge/maple. I liked it best.

    What I don’t like is how the ovangkol looks against the walnut top. Too similar in colour.... I need to do something about that. Probably just order new fretboard material, darker.




    • Like 1

  12. I also am going to make a saw guide for the multi-scale frets as my normal jig only does straight. Saw a design online that looks good and that I will copy. Uses magnets to keep the saw blade stable against a maple block that can pivot to make the correct angled cuts.

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