Andyjr1515

Like pretty much everything else related to this build, there's a lot of experimentation and testing with the finish. What I'll be trying to do is to balance the figuring (which is quite something on the sycamore) against the lightness of colour. The standard 'slurry and buff' produces the most glorious feeling smooth, silky, organic result. It also brings out nicely the quilting on the sycamore. It does, however, darken the wood (pretty much to the same extent as if you wet it with a damp cloth). How much that is depends on what you contrast it with. Against dark, it looks pretty light and whitish: But against lighter backgrounds, it looks more tinted: For the sake of a little bit of experimentation, I'm going to try a specialist wood finish - Osmo Polyx Oil Raw (3044). I've got some on order that should be with me on Tuesday. It has the reputation of lessening the 'wetting' effect of wood when you apply the finish and leaving it [i]closer[/i] to the sanded look. Now the reason I need to experiment is when you read how it does that. All finishes 'wet' the wood. Trouble is it wets more - and therefore darkens more - wherever there is end grain. The Osmo has a tiny bit of white in it which fills the more open pores and therefore darkens a bit less in those areas. Sounds good, you think. But of course the figuring is enhanced by the very same phenomenon. So using this [i]might[/i] reduce the figuiring. Only one way of finding out.... I'll let you know

[quote name='Mottlefeeder' timestamp='1498854064' post='3327630'] Looking at your truss rod cover, is it shallow enough to allow it to be removed while the strings are on? It looks quite thick in the picture. David [/quote] You have to slacken them off at the back tuners and just pull the strings clear either side of the nut but you don't have to unclamp them. Not a problem really because you need to have the strings slackened off before you adjust the truss rod in any event.

While pondering on that, though, the exciting bit (for me at least) is that I've started the finishing. I make it a general rule not to show the shots for the first couple of coats, but it bodes well. Yes - it's darkened it, but what a lot of figuring there is in that wood! I should be ready show a couple of shots sometime tomorrow...

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1498833270' post='3327458'] Could you inset some brass washers where the strings thread through the headstock? [/quote] I want to retain the 'teardrop' opening if I can. Hence me thinking in terms of brass tube sunk into the vertical holes, but with and angled top cut peened over and sitting in the teardrop. Hmmmm....maybe a picture would be a bit clearer than that description

[quote name='blablas' timestamp='1498831025' post='3327427'] Brass tubing - Steampunk. [/quote]

[quote name='Si600' timestamp='1498813520' post='3327186'] Are the grooves from the string holes a byproduct of stringing it and is there a way of having a ferrule to protect the wood? [/quote] Some is the original filing, but there are string marks too. As I mention above, I haven't decided yet whether to put ferrules in or not. I'm going to get some brass tube and have a play with a curved lead-in of brass first.

[quote name='Twincam' timestamp='1498765313' post='3326960'] Bass is looking great. And I pretty much level, recrown and polish frets in a similar manor. Although I use various grades of sandpaper wet and dry, then autosol, which does a great job. However I wonder if I should start using a combo of paper and micromesh as autosol can be messy and on some very hard fret material a few more grades would really take out any microscopic imperfections. [/quote] Hi, Twincam Thanks! Yes - Autosol is great, but you can imagine the problem on this in terms of staining... I've never tried using my method for stainless steel frets (which I avoid wherever I can) but it works for me for standard fret material.

Next job was fixing the trussrod cover. It will be held with a single pair of neodymium magnets. Because it has been cut out of the headstock plate itself, it's a very close fit and is quite thick, it needs some method of getting it out easily! Enter, one fingernail slot: And one fingernail groove in the headstock plate: And a neat, tight fitting cover that can nevertheless be removed easily when necessary: While this shot is here, worth mentioning that I still haven't decided whether to put in some hidden ferrules or not. Also, ignore the couple of gaps around the swifts - I haven't done the filling yet!

And here it is, with all the magnetic catches and screening in place ready for sanding. If you look at the back edge, you can see where the concave curve will be sanded into the cover:

[quote name='Andyjr1515' timestamp='1498738234' post='3326704'] Yes - twice baked salami. Your memory is better than you thought Although any finish will darken the wood, the intention is to keep it as light as possible. So, to enhance the feel, I'm opting for the tru-oil "slurry and buff" all over - it leaves the wood protected but SILKY smooth and yet very organic. It should also be pretty much the minimum of darkening of all of the finish options. [/quote] And then add the pink leopard skin, of course...

[quote name='Daz39' timestamp='1498736094' post='3326671'] *sniff* it'll suffice questione - because it's been many pages and I have forgotten. Will there be a finish on the instrument? Oil, poly, cold pressed olive oil, twice baked salami etc.? [/quote] Yes - twice baked salami. Your memory is better than you thought Although any finish will darken the wood, the intention is to keep it as light as possible. So, to enhance the feel, I'm opting for the tru-oil "slurry and buff" all over - it leaves the wood protected but SILKY smooth and yet very organic. It should also be pretty much the minimum of darkening of all of the finish options.

[quote name='cheddatom' timestamp='1498735391' post='3326659'] I really hate it when it says there's a new post on this thread but it's just a load of compliments for Andy and no new photos for me to salivate over [/quote] Is that better?

Continued rain means the final sanding probably will be done tomorrow. Nevertheless, there is plenty, plenty, plenty still to be done! The control chamber cover will not only need to be sanded flush, but also with a slight concavity to match the body. Before doing this, therefore, I need to know exactly where it's going to sit. And to do this, I need to:[list] [*]Double check the depth of the deepest components (battery + clip and the stereo jack) [*]Deepen where necessary [*]Line the chamber and cover with copper tape shielding [*]Install the magnetic catches [/list] This is where I am so far:

[quote name='roceci' timestamp='1498731989' post='3326606'] Like others, been following this thread quietly and like other others, don't usually like [s]anything other than fender shapes[/s] single cuts, but this is absolutely stunning. Loving the tradecraft, the decision making, the quality of the work...the whole thing is fascinating and what a beautiful instrument it's turning out to be! Well done Andy, you're a very talented bloke [/quote] Thanks, roceci ...and Mick's got a decent eye for a design...

[quote name='TheGreek' timestamp='1498685330' post='3326406'] What, no updates, no pictures??? You do realise I won't be able to sleep tonight... [i]Is it done yet??[/i] [/quote] NO! I was defeated by the rain today - I need proper light for the final sand so the cellar is no good. There should be a decent amount of progress tomorrow, though. And NO - it's not going to be finished tomorrow!

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1498612793' post='3325904'] Really? I was hoping for a short scale acoustic five string with thunderguts on it..... [/quote] Oh, acoustic! Well, you should have said that in the first place! OK, I'm sweeping up the workshop now ready to bring the logs in. I'm assuming, of course, that we are talking all carved from a solid billet? If you'd like to pay the advance into my Bank of Nigeria account we can get the ball rolling

[quote name='W1_Pro' timestamp='1498525975' post='3325279'] You have to love the sparkling frets in that last pic. Top job Andy. [/quote] Good to hear from you, Stuart. And no....I'm NOT going to build you one

Thanks, folks - your positive feedback is always hugely appreciated. It hasn't been the easiest of builds, not least for the fact that probably Mick was the only one of all of us who truly knew how this needed to turn out. I have to say that with the curves and lines I'm totally sold on it. In the flesh, it's turning out to be a really beautiful design - not just striking but truly beautiful. Yup - well done, Mick

[quote name='FuNkShUi' timestamp='1498551293' post='3325366'] Cracking job again Andy! [/quote] Thanks, Kert. Another one that I'll be sad to see go.

[quote name='Saved' timestamp='1498537561' post='3325285'] Very nice job. One question.How will you set up the intonation with non-saddle bridge? [/quote] Like most acoustics, it's fixed. This is why I had to string it up and do the various checks with the temporary bridge described earlier. There is a tiny, tiny chance of fine tuning by filing an angle either at the front or back of the 3mm thick saddle so that the string sits towards the front or the back of the saddle. In effective terms this gives a couple of mm adjustment, but only if you are not on the frontmost or rearmost position to start with. It's why I was so pleased and relieved that it actually intonated....

Next task is levelling and re-crowning the frets. There are dozens of ways people do this but, for what it's worth, this is how I do it: I adjust the trussrod until the neck is flat. I use the back of my levelling beam to check: I then turn the beam over and level the frets. I try not to overdo this. Here you can see the metal dust where the high spots have been taken down: Then this is basically my kit: Decent quality masking tape, a hoscoe crowning file, the wonderful micro-mesh abrasive cloths (2400, 3600, 6000, 12000) and a fret rocker just to make sure! First I mark any flattened tops of the frets with a marker pen (in this case it was the whole fret): The re-file the crown with the Hoscoe, using the marker line to tell me when I've got there: I then wrap the progressively fine grades of the micro mesh round the hoscoe to finish off the shape of the crown and polish out the scratches, ending up with a levelled, re-crowned and polished fretboard :

Thanks for the lead, Matt

[quote name='HowieBass' timestamp='1498468986' post='3324735'] Are we going to get to hear any sound clips? Pretty please? [/quote] Once it's all finished and wired up (although as usual, with my set up - no bass rig - it will only be able to be comparative) Still loads and loads to do before then, though....

Very good progress. You are clambering up that learning curve at an impressive rate

And knock me down with a feather...... it intonates!