Andyjr1515

Actually, with the new Ronseal formulation, miniscule streaks is a problem. It really doesn't self level as it used to and as it ought to and yet it doesn't like being thinned either. But, as Norris says, microfibre cloths don't shed anything.

After a couple of slurry-and-wipe sessions with Tru-oil, I've then given it three wipes with slightly thinned Ronseal Hardglaze applied, as usual, with a budget soft micro-fibre cloth. Although the new formula Ronseal is a bit quirky and doesn't self level quite enough, this is probably the quickest I've got to an acceptable finish at 3 days total from sanded wood: After a week of letting it harden fully, I will polish it up properly with Meguiars Ultimate compound but this is perfectly tough enough for normal handling already so hopefully the build will be finished over the next 2-3 days

It's a bit daft that it doesn't say on the website, but I think, looking at the other samples, that one is on figured, flamed, wood and the other is on straight grain. On the teal one you've chosen, you can just see the green coming out in the parts of the flame that are straight grained... Bear in mind that the samples appear to be on maple - the darker wood of your body will give you a different colour tone. Best way of finding out is to put some on in the bottom of the neck pocket. Apply with a small pad made up of lint free cloth and un-thinned. The colour when it is still wet will be indicative of both the colour tone and the depth of colour once it has been clear coated. The colour will look quite different once it's dried. If it has dried and you want a reminder of what it's going to look like, just wipe it over with a slightly damp cloth. Great job on the body, by the way!

It's another beauty, Jez

On the home straight now - the finishing I've spent a bit of time sanding out rough-sanding lines, smoothing curves and starting to get close to the finished neck profile (I'll finally finish that once it's all strung up and playable) and now started the slurry-filling and preparation for varnishing. The figuring on this amboyna simply HAS to have full gloss, so I'm going to revert to Ronsealing the body and tru-oil slurry and buff for the neck. But, I also slurry and wipe with tru-oil before applying the gloss - I find it shows up any missed sanding marks and also produces a wonderful grain-filled base for the gloss coat. Got a bit more to do on the back, but the top is just drying fully before the first gloss coat: The back is almost there - just a touch of sanding work remaining around the control chamber. I will also deepen the hatch rebate before the gloss goes on: Present weight - 3lbs 10oz

It's ended as good as it started. Stupendous!

And looking at that ad, this wasn't the one I worked on, which was the same body woods and style but was a fretless . They are, as I said earlier, stupendously well made basses!

Solved the mystery. It's Rippled Ash, sometimes called Olive Ash

Hmmm....I worked on that Wal, Mick. I didn't think it was olive wood. It was beautiful, though . One of the best built basses I've ever had my sticky mitts on

By the way, they do an amber tinted version too...

It needs testing to make sure it doesn't react with the decal (although I doubt that it will) but I would strongly recommend Osmo Polyx in Satin - you can get a small 125ml tin (in fact the 5ml sample size would probably do fine if it's just the headstock) from Wood Finishes Direct here Just wipe it on with a soft lint-free cloth or soft brush, let it dry and then give it a second coat. That's all that it will need

To my eye, the white macassar looks nothing like Ash - but they are all pretty decent! I'm sure you'll make the right choice

Oh, OK - most probably you are right. I think it would be odd for them to sell it as a nitro finish and put a poly neck on it. Anyone else confirm?

This ^ Are you sure it's nitro? It looks more like poly to me. Same solutions if it is poly but probably gives you more options of lacquer products you could use.

Looking great! And yes, please - more pics!!!

That white macassar looks splendid!

Waiting patiently

Great minds think alike... Although I've used standard MoP, this is what I remade last night: I've also made some more to replace the brass knobs on my own build

There are a number of builders on this forum, @Bastav , who are my inspiration and act as my aspiration to improve certain aspects of my own building. To do carves like this without a single lump or bump evident is what I presently strive for. I haven't got there yet and will look at these photos as a reminder of how close I'm getting - or, looking at them here, how far I am away.

Actually, re-engaging brain - this is a 2+2? If so, the angle over the nut should be sufficient anyway without a tree. The angle of the G and D should, theoretically, be the same as over the E and A on a typical Fender headstock, which don't need a tree...

Well, in theory, a well glued titebond joint is as stong as solid wood. However, that does assume a perfect joint, well clamped during gluing. The thinner headstock (15mm ish) leaves a significantly shorter scarf length than the more usual neck position so I'm not sure. It should be fine.....but It's a lot of trouble to go to, though. What's the issue with a Fender type tree?

I'm rubbish at scarf joints so can't offer any advice, other than I can't see why it wouldn't work. As you say, you would need to veneer or put a headstock plate on to hide the join. I look forward to seeing how this develops

Actually....nah - the MoP dots are too big, now I've looked at how they look on the guitar. So...hmmmm....smaller dots...swifts... Who knows. Only thing that's certain is that there's more workshop time coming up

I thought of adding some inlayed swifts instead of the dots but then figured life is too short...

I haven't bought the pots for this build yet so could use either. For split splined shafts, I use the old trick of screwing the grub screw into the slot of the split shaft which I always personally reckon is more secure than on a solid shaft because, as well as the splines splaying firmly against the sides of the collet, the split also 'grabs' the grub screw itself which then rarely loosens