fillerbunny

These seem to be manufactured by a Taiwanese company called Smarvo, [url="http://www.smarvo.com.tw/musical_instrument_amplifiers/tube_bass_amp/tube_bass_amp.html"]here's the amp with their badge on it[/url]. I had the Fame version for a couple of weeks, sold it after I think two rehearsals. It didn't really have the juice to keep up with a rock band with a 410 and sounded very underwhelming. Search for the Talkbass thread on the Fame, at least one fellow Finn seemed to like it.

[quote name='subdude' post='1371867' date='Sep 13 2011, 04:37 PM']fillerbunny, does this only apply if the XLR input is unbalanced or does one bridge pin 3 and pin 1 in any case when coming from an unbalanced 1/4 jack output? thanks for the help.[/quote] If the XLR input was unbalanced, I guess only two pins would be connected anyway so no jumper bridging pins 1 & 3 would be necessary. These manuals by [url="http://media.qscaudio.com/pdfs/plxuser.pdf"]QSC[/url] and [url="http://crownaudio.com/pdf/amps/139441.pdf"]Crown[/url] (pages 15 and 9, respectively) illustrate the correct wiring. Unbalanced XLR to TS plug cables are widely available, I used to use one I built myself but now use a commercial cable just for the security of not having to live in anticipation of my cold solders failing... I have no clue what would happen if pin 3 wasn't earthed, I just know that a balanced TRS to XLR cable didn't work for me between a preamp with unbalanced output and a power amp.

[quote name='bremen' post='1370288' date='Sep 12 2011, 02:18 PM']Pin 1 jack sleeve, pin 2 jack tip. Pin 3 no connection. [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector"]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XLR_connector[/url][/quote] This, but with pin 3 also to earth / pin 1 for unbalanced XLR. Power amp manuals usually have this explained. With my old Ampeg SVPCL (unbalanced 1/4" only) to Crown XLS (XLR only) this was the only way to connect without almost complete gain loss, and that's the way I connect my BBE 383 to QSC PLX. A regular 1/4" patch cable would do, but I prefer XLR whenever I can use them.

[quote name='WalMan' post='1245013' date='May 26 2011, 01:41 AM']Anyone who uses a G&L L2500 must be OK Downloaded from eMusic. I'll give it a listen tomorrow. Clips sounded good[/quote] Yeah, the songs wouldn't be half as good if I played anything else So how'd you like it? Anyone else, the album's still available to stream for free!

Hi guys, My band just released our first album, "Repercussions", last Friday. We played a gig at a Helsinki rock club to celebrate the release and were overwhelmed by the attendance and reception! We play progressively inclined rock or metal - prog not necessarily in how many notes we can play in a bar or how difficult the songs are to play, but rather progressive in arrangements, time signatures and such. Pretty much the whole album was recorded on a MacBook using REAPER software, apart from the drum tracks which were recorded at Seawolf Studios. The bass I used was my G&L Tribute L-2500 thru a MXR Bass D.I.+ and also a Bad Monkey, though the distorted signal wasn't used as the engineer added distortion during mixing. The whole thing can be streamed at [url="http://www.minutian.com/"]http://www.minutian.com/[/url]. Have a go at it! The cd digipack is available for order at [url="http://www.recordshopx.com/artist/minutian/repercussions/"]Record Shop X[/url], digital copies available on [url="http://open.spotify.com/album/1g7Z4uzDp6d6lzQtwV6Wmi"]Spotify[/url] and [url="http://itunes.apple.com/uk/album/repercussions/id437247588"]iTunes[/url], as well as a few other services!

I only just replaced the ER20s with a pair of molded ER25s, as standing next to the drums they just weren't enough anymore. 20s served me well for a decade though and I still keep a pair on my keyring for whenever I may need protection.

I've gotten to the point where at practice the cymbals hurt my ears even with ER-20s. I really need to scrounge up the cash for a pair of moulded plugs.

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='986676' date='Oct 13 2010, 12:21 PM']That's because Tony Levin's playing it!!![/quote] Can't argue with that!

[quote name='velvetkevorkian' post='986646' date='Oct 13 2010, 11:50 AM']Want. Can't play, but want.[/quote] Who wouldn't! I do think the Stick looks cooler, though.

All joking aside, yeah, that's not a bass but a Warr Guitar. Played like the Chapman Stick, by two handed tapping (random image off the web):

[quote name='noelk27' post='973073' date='Sep 30 2010, 09:11 PM']300 notes for OTPJ's 424 is a steal. For sure I'd stick with the passive models, unless you have the money for the high-end active models, as the circuit in the entry level models is a bit bland.[/quote] Yamaha probably agrees, as in the current BB lineup there are no active models... even the 2300-2700€ BB2024/5 basses are passive.

[quote name='4StringFortress' post='972518' date='Sep 30 2010, 01:40 PM']So whats the different between the 414 and the 424? i know the 424 has a 5 piece neck but what else is different?[/quote] The BB424 and 425, aside from the neck, borrow the new strings-thru-body-at-45-degree-angle bridge from the new handmade BB2024/BB2025 and production BB1024/BB1025 basses. Aside from the neck and the bridge there doesn't seem to be a difference. Great basses, never heard a bad thing about them.

[quote name='Bassassin' post='241977' date='Jul 17 2008, 07:49 PM']That's the twin of mine - I've even got the toaster to go in the neck position now! Don't know if you've seen the thread about mine in the builds forum (still not put it together yet - lazy sod!) but mine was sold as a genuine Rickenbacker, to a friend of the guy I acquired it from, dressed up in real Rick parts & truss cover. Wish I had some way of knowing what brand it was originally sold as, but I've seen these under dozens of different names.[/quote] Yes I saw your thread and immediately recognised the binding. I had wondered if it had been deliberately colored to match the body, but apparently - and fortunately - not. The Japanese guy selling it thinks it's an Aria Pro II but then I don't know if there is one unidentified Matsumoku instrument that isn't "probably an Aria". Mmm, I can't help thinking how cool those would look with a black scratchplate and trc, particularily since there's no white binding anymore that would clash with black.

Hmm, wonder which thread I should reply to... one is for pr0n and other for eBay sightings! Owell, this one will have to do.. [quote name='Bassassin' post='241568' date='Jul 17 2008, 12:41 PM']Heerby was a Kasuga brand - Japan only as far as I can tell, sometimes the Japlish translates it as Herby - which is even stranger! I'm guessing the catalogue you've seen is the one with the lunar landing scene on the front - seems to be the only one out there! Good to get a decent look at what appears to be the through-neck version of my bass. [/quote] Yeah, the lunar catalogue. It seems Kasuga also made guitars under the brand Herby, but I've never seen one - [url="http://www.music-trade.co.jp/otherhistory2.html"]which is no wonder according to again the same Japanese site I linked to in the other thread[/url]. But you never know with these things. [quote name='Bassassin' post='241568' date='Jul 17 2008, 12:41 PM']You've done the right thing getting that Fernandes, I think, it looks stunning! It even has "proper" knurled Rick-type strap buttons - never seen that on a copy before.[/quote] Yeah, I was stunned when I saw those buttons! It's a bit hard to see but I think the black one I linked to in the other thread has those too which would make them original. Although I don't see why anyone would want to replace existing buttons with those - they're pretty useless and will have to go in favor of some Schaller locks. I have no idea how anyone ever got their strap to stay on those minuscule things... I wonder if official RIC Schaller buttons fit this thing Wouldn't be surprised if they copied the screws as well I'm importing the bass from a Japanese store via a very friendly middleman - thanks Somara! - so after shipping and Finnish customs fees and VAT it won't be the cheapest 'Faker ever. I'll end up paying the equivalent of £400 for it, but a few years worth of GAS and active search for a good bugger puts that into perspective I think. I'm very happy so far. My concerns about the wood in the other thread was just my pessimism talking - with my luck I wouldn't have been surprised by a sudden early 90's adaptation of Chinese cardboard in favor of Japanese maple Besides, the uncommon AutumnGlo/Walnut type finish and glossy pics kinda reminded me of a Indie or Rockinbetter I noticed the interesting mix of early 4001 and 4003 features too, actually I think they only make it cooler! Give it character. From what I can gather the Fernandes/Burny guitars were made by several factories and generally don't have serial numbers. That sounds like fertile ground for some good rumors, and pretty much every factory of the era seems to be linked to Fernandes by one 'source' or another Dating and finding the origin of the bass would be cool, but I'll be happy if it just plays half as well as it looks. Oh, and to avoid posting to three different threads about the same basses and to contribute to the porn content - your Matsumocker project isn't the only one with discolored binding. I was just offered the bass in the attached pic for a very reasonable price but decided to go with the Fernandenbacker in the end. Looks identical to yours, complete with a fake RIC trc... [attachment=10908:matsumocker.jpg]

[quote name='Bassassin' post='220913' date='Jun 17 2008, 10:20 PM']I'll start - this is the original Rickenbugger, queen of all the Fakers: It's a Kasuga, made in Japan probably early/mid 70s, exact model & age uncertain. It's a bolt-neck, and is incredibly heavy - which I haven't helped by putting a brass Hipshot on it. Additionally I've made a custom trc (the original was sadly long-gone) and Pickguardian - style pickup surround, and replaced the plain white scratchplate with the pearl.[/quote] That's one of the purrdiest things ever for sure. As for the make and model, [url="http://www.j-guitar.com/sp/sea/view_detail/s11630012.html"]this one on sale in Japan[/url] should look familiar! Almost as pretty as yours on the front - the pearl pickguard really does wonders - but neck thru! Not bad price either, about £180. I was GASsing for that one so badly, but alas, it seems to be on hold and while the store selling it actually as an email address they probably don't speak English since I didn't get a reply. It's been up there a while, probably sold long ago. [url="http://brochures.yokochou.com/guitar-and-amp/heerby/197x/en_index.html"]The only Heerby catalogue I've seen[/url] features the models RB-800 and RB-600 the latter of which looks like an "S" version with dot inlays, no binding and only mono jack. It was ¥20,000 cheaper though Pity the scans and probably original images aren't exactly hires, hard to make out details and decide if the 800 model is what you have. The text probably describes their fretboard material and neck construction, but my katakana's are a bit rusty As for the forum topic, I went ahead and bought the Fernandes I was asking about in the ebay 'Faker thread. Waiting for it to ship so here's a little something from the guy I'm getting it from: [attachment=10897:f.jpg] [attachment=10898:fheel.jpg]

Hey guys, Please forgive me for going OT but I'm in dire need of advice. Any info about the Fernandes copies seems very scarce on the 'net, pretty much all I have to work on are a couple of Japanese catalogs from early to mid-80's showing the model RB-80 or RRB-80 depending on the year, and [url="http://www.music-trade.co.jp/etc.html"]a Japanese site[/url] with timelines of the Jap brands suggesting the Japan built Fernandes guitars were built by Kawai and Tokai. The reason I'm interested is that I've got my sights on this Fernandes (not on ebay - sorry ) that certainly looks the part - a strange AutumnGlowish finish, mono and stereo outputs and very much looks neck-thru. No skunk stripe, though. The only thing I'm worried about is the woods - I'm no expert on wood textures, does anyone have an idea what this thing could be made of? Also, I wouldn't imagine even an 80's Japanese made bass was worthless, but I'm unsure if Fernandes later had these made elsewhere. I mean, the bass looks quite astounding, but I have this nagging suspicion that all's not well. It may just be the finish, though Any info is appreciated! Thank you and feel free to delete or move my post if necessary. [attachment=10862:fernfront.jpg] [attachment=10860:fernback.jpg] [attachment=10861:fernneck.jpg] Finally, here's a [url="http://www.yuumusic.com/fernandesrb80bk.html"]black one that I googled up[/url].