Mr. Foxen

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1363995956' post='2020876'] Thanks for the S/C info Mr F. Nice Burmans by the way, what are they a modded bassman type design? [/quote] Pretty much their own thing. The 3 knob channel has a Fender type tone stack with a fixed mid, the gain channel has an active mid which is a separate circuit to the bass and treble controls, the 3 stage gain control gives massive scope for colours of gain, and its without noise even with silly distortion. Much more a no expense spared sort of design and build rather than the cheapest end of good enough like Fender.

There is also this sort of thing, I got one of these to run my desktop speakers: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390166545300"]http://cgi.ebay.co.u...em=390166545300[/url] Its 75w/side, but prob can get bigger for more money.

[quote name='KingBollock' timestamp='1363984066' post='2020658'] There's a 100w rms amp kit at Maplins: [url="http://www.maplin.co.uk/200w-power-amplifier-46467"]http://www.maplin.co...amplifier-46467[/url] It requires a few extra bits, like a heat sink, transformer and an enclosure, but it still works out quite cheap. [/quote] I like their answers to question: [quote] [b] What are the supply requirements?[/b] Maplin says: 230Vac mains Via step down transformer (35 volt) [/quote] So it needs 35v, but that 35v needs to be stepped down from 230, apparently.

Small left to right? There are bunches of rack sized ones. Really, ones with a preamp built in will be cheaper due to economies of scale, bypassing that isn't generally massive issue.

False ceiling and something between, you need to convert sound energy into something else, so rockwool or coconut matting is good as the vibration rubs the fibers together and makes heat instead of conducting sound.

What is it that you are trying to achieve? That's where the difference between proofing and treating comes in. Sound proof a studio space involves twin walls with sand between and suchlike. But treating a room so it sounds nice can help with outside noise, because you can be a lot quieter to not cover bad sound with volume.

Just occurred that MEsa also reccomend only using their own brand of valves, kind of tells you how useful their advice may be.

Foam won't sound proof things, its more for treatment. Need mass and friction for actual sound proofing, like sand or dense matting.

[quote name='VTypeV4' timestamp='1363960394' post='2020171'] Thanks for the offer, I might well take you up on that! Interesting that the chassis is configured different than mine was. Your valves looks to be 'in a row' whereas mine was '3 + 3'.. I'm gonna take some pics and get some more chassis / valve shots this afternoon. [/quote] Enegergizer slaves were in a totally different box to the 120 PAs and heads, its the size of the 50w boxes, and bit more point to point going on inside. Without a preamp, you can put everything closer together without noise worries. Here's my rig, and guitar rig, correctly proportioned: [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/DSCF1389.jpg[/IMG]

Kind of assumed the drophead was with cab, being called 'head' was just like a fliptop is a 'top'.

Look up a Mo Clifton. He injured himself and made basses to suit.

I had a look at the 200w Drophead in the shop today. Surprised at the tiny transformers.

I pretty much figured such a ridiculous statement could only be a wind up.

Wait until they are successful, then make your move.

It will probably cause no harm, but it will be a tone change as well as a gain drop. But if there is anyone I'd expect to do something in an amp that will make it blow up unexpectedly for a really minor thing, it is Mesa. Awesome 'design features' like going into oscillation if the output is unloaded, rather than most amps that only eat themselves if you try playing through them unloaded. Also live shielding, as in the shielding you will generally assume is grounded is carrying voltage.

Power soaks that handle more than 100w aren't really available.

That page seems to miss an important bit about the different impedance of the different valves having an effect on the circuit, which shifts tone around in various possible watys depending on what the valve does, the two halves might do different things.

Bolted to the wall of the Gryphon pub now.

Power soak is really not the way. What cab are you using? Really, volume control is the way. Maybe a pad but that is still silly.

Sounds like a correctly functioning bass. I put fair bit of work into my early basses to get them to sustain how I wanted. You can stop notes with technique, but you have real trouble increasing sustain with technique.

[quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1363780500' post='2017405'] Really? Ok, you know way more about this sort of thing than I. Certainly less expensive, what was the difference, choice of components? [/quote] Hiwatt wiring was absolute top standard. Design and layout were of high standard also (earthing scheme was a bit questionable but doesn't cause issue if used as designed) [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/Hiwatt/hiwatt001.jpg[/IMG] Selmer are bit more geared to being churned out by less skilled labour: [IMG]http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b69/Incarante/Selmer/P1020625.jpg[/IMG]

[quote name='4 Strings' timestamp='1363768908' post='2017137'] A utility amp, rather sneered at in those days by little jerks who (like me!) hankered after a HiWatt, but built to the same sort of standards. [/quote] Selmer were really far from built to the standard of Hiwatt.

I think a pro luthier won't like it just out of pride and cosmetics, but time tells another story with regards to its effectiveness.

I think main complaint about the head at least was it got toasty hot and was metal, finger hazard. On the plus side; toast.

The difference in woods isn't down to the species/type of wood. It is down to the individual piece of wood, because even within a species or even a single tree, the wood is really inconsistent. Stuff used for making intruments is always broadly similar because a basic degree of strength and workability is necessary, and all of the silly alternatives that 'prove' wood makes no difference are of the same theme of things that need a basic degree of stiffness and workability.