Jabba_the_gut

And finally had some time to progress the second one - hoorah!! Not the best picture but the top was bought at the same time so (hopefully...) will look very similar in colour to the first bass.

http://www.status-graphite.com/status/frames/index_home.html Still can’t afford them!!

I'd be inclined to remove the fretboard, radius and slot a new one and fit it. Be a shame not see it complete after all the other work - some nice looking wood on that too! Cheers Jez

I'm interested - south Wales should be good for me.

I found the Ibanez Mezzo strings worked on this - just the right length on the B string for the tuning post!! I've also tried the 4 string sets on my 4 string version of this bass and they were good too.

It is. a 27" 5 string. Ash body, maple neck with padauk fretboard. You get a better idea of the size next to this Markbass 801: There's a build diary on here for reference https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/440731-27-short-scale-5-string/

Now, that is very nice…..

@ValleyArts How did you get on with this? Any joy with parts?? Cheers

I’m hoping to get along to this - always enjoy the bass bashes!! All being well, I’ll bring along a 27” scale 5 string, a Status S3000 and a whatever else fits in the car…….

I like very short scale stuff but the difficulty I find is in finding suitable strings. If you can keep it around 30” string choice is better. That’ll be why one of pictures shows a Les Paul with the strings anchored at the rear of the bass but the bridge in the normal position, I guess.

I always fancied a Series 2, probably a nostalgia thing from seeing the Trace Elliot and Status adverts when I was a teenager. Well out of my price range now. But I do still have a composite headless Moses neck so will have to build something around that.

Yay!! Look forward to it!! Let us know if you need any payment in advance. Cheers again for organising this!

I got a pair of pickups for a B2A (same size I believe) made by Kent Armstrong some years ago. These allow for coil splitting so a bit more variation is possible. Might be worth a look to see if they still do something.

Yep, pretty much the same here!!

Very sad news. My deepest condolences to his family.

If this is similar to my experiences, I’ve had the Allen key round off the inside of the insert before it is fully installed. This then leaves the problem of trying to get the thing out again which is not always easy!! Using a bolt with a locking nut allows the insert to be fitted with a spanner without this risk. The inserts are generally some kind of alloy that is strong enough for cutting the thread in softwood or chipboard when being inserted but isn’t always the best for hardwoods. Once installed they are absolutely fine though.

You can also get a ring that fits over splined shafts and increases the diameter to that of solid shafts. Quite handy if you are trying to change knobs but don’t want to change electrics. Might work in this case. https://www.guitarpusher.com/products/wd-potentiometer-adapter-sleeve

I have one of those Katsu palm routers and I can’t fault it. You can also get a router base for it to turn it into a normal plunge router. I use the router base most of the time. Very useful tool.

And you can get these that help in changing the diameter of a split shaft…. https://www.artys-custom-guitars.com/en/pots-switches-and-other-parts/adapter-pot-sleeves/

I’ve used these before when making wooden knobs: https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/knob-insert-for-diy-knobs/

I might be the odd one out as I enjoy working with a router! But having said that I agree with the replies above from @Andyjr1515snd @3below. I spend more time making templates to use with router bearing cutters that I do actually routing. I also completely agree with the point about removing the bulk with a Forstner bit (again buy decent ones - worth it in the long run). The other consideration is not trying to remove too much in one go else the router will bite!! All the best!

Completely agree with all the points above. I’ve also learnt each of those the hard way!!!