Jabba_the_gut

I’m hoping to get along to this - always enjoy the bass bashes!! All being well, I’ll bring along a 27” scale 5 string, a Status S3000 and a whatever else fits in the car…….

I like very short scale stuff but the difficulty I find is in finding suitable strings. If you can keep it around 30” string choice is better. That’ll be why one of pictures shows a Les Paul with the strings anchored at the rear of the bass but the bridge in the normal position, I guess. 

I always fancied a Series 2, probably a nostalgia thing from seeing the Trace Elliot and Status adverts when I was a teenager. Well out of my price range now. But I do still have a composite headless Moses neck so will have to build something around that.

Sorry, sold

That’s nice….. and gone already…..

Yay!! Look forward to it!! Let us know if you need any payment in advance.

Cheers again for organising this!

I got a pair of pickups for a B2A (same size I believe) made by Kent Armstrong some years ago. These allow for coil splitting so a bit more variation is possible. Might be worth a look to see if they still do something.

9 hours ago, Rich said:

Dunno about anyone else but Sunday usually works best for me... Saturdays are a bit more difficult as there are always Things 'We' Need To Do apparently. 

Yep, pretty much the same here!!

Very sad news. My deepest condolences to his family. 

6 hours ago, tauzero said:

 

Rather belatedly - I've used inserts a couple of times and always used an allen key to insert them. What's the logic behind using a locked bolt instead? Does the allen key expand the insert slightly or something like that?

If this is similar to my experiences, I’ve had the Allen key round off the inside of the insert before it is fully installed. This then leaves the problem of trying to get the thing out again which is not always easy!! Using a bolt with a locking nut allows the insert to be fitted with a spanner without this risk. The inserts are generally some kind of alloy that is strong enough for cutting the thread in softwood or chipboard when being inserted but isn’t always the best for hardwoods. Once installed they are absolutely fine though.

You can also get a ring that fits over splined shafts and increases the diameter to that of solid shafts. Quite handy if you are trying to change knobs but don’t want to change electrics. Might work in this case. 
https://www.guitarpusher.com/products/wd-potentiometer-adapter-sleeve

I have one of those Katsu palm routers and I can’t fault it. You can also get a router base for it to turn it into a normal plunge router. I use the router base most of the time. Very useful tool.

2 hours ago, Grangur said:

The pots we have here have a splined spindle, but I guess it's possible to use a grub-screw if the diametre of the hole in the splied bush is right for the spindle. Many thanks.

That said, I don't know if @TheGreek wants wooden knobs. Maybe I should make sure he actually likes the bass first?
Maybe, if he doesn't like the bass, wooden knobs would make it more saleable in any case?

And you can get these that help in changing the diameter of a split shaft….

https://www.artys-custom-guitars.com/en/pots-switches-and-other-parts/adapter-pot-sleeves/

I’ve used these before when making wooden knobs:

https://www.thonk.co.uk/shop/knob-insert-for-diy-knobs/

I might be the odd one out as I enjoy working with a router! But having said that I agree with the replies above from @Andyjr1515snd @3below. I spend more time making templates to use with router bearing cutters that I do actually routing. I also completely agree with the point about removing the bulk with a Forstner bit (again buy decent ones - worth it in the long run).  The other consideration is not trying to remove too much in one go else the router will bite!!

All the best!

Completely agree with all the points above. I’ve also learnt each of those the hard way!!!

The other thing is sand paper. I tried lots of different paper over a few years but found one from Halfords of all places that was great. It didn’t clog, wasn’t too expensive, lasted a long time and came in all the grades I wanted. They stopped selling it recently and the replacement product is inferior. I’ve looked for elsewhere but no joy… the search continues!!!

9 hours ago, Frank Blank said:

Paging @Jabba_the_gut and @Andyjr1515...

The Shinto rasp is a must have I believe. The one I have has a course and fine side and is great the main part of neck shaping. I also have a couple of rasp files like these

https://www.rutlands.com/sp+more-carving-japanese-carving-files-japanese-half-round-wood-carving-file-110mm-medium-rutlands®+r1303

Cheers

16 hours ago, Frank Blank said:

I came back to this thread to show the chap the bass built from the wood he gave me, now I want a telebass like this one, would it be possible to make a hollow bodied one?

Certainly would be….

3 hours ago, Frank Blank said:

@Jabba_the_gut I discovered yesterday that the blocks of wood I gave you were Iroko wood which is the same wood that school science tables were made from.

Cheers Frank. Interesting - I have seen old science work tops for sale and wondered if they would be any use!!

I used the larger piece you gave me, cut it in two and glued in a new block in to make the correct width up. The piece I found was a near perfect match colour wise - so lucky!! Nice wood to work with though pretty heavy. 
 

Cheers

Utterly bonkers price…

My pair of Musicman USA Sub 5 basses. Really don’t get the use they deserve!!

On 14/11/2022 at 22:49, dub_junkie said:

Utterly hopeless trying to resist. Looking for a status neck to go on one of the maple necked basses now.

 

Stunning!

Sold Francis  a set of tuners. Really easy to deal with and great communication.

All the best

Jez