fonzoooroo
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Vintage MIJ (formerly J@pCr@p) Spotting
fonzoooroo replied to Bassassin's topic in eBay - Weird and Wonderful
Talking about Jedson tele basses... I'm selling this one: [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270612894548&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...=STRK:MESELX:IT[/url] -
Where abouts are you? Are you after any trades, or just cash? -
Any interest in this? Try me with an offer... -
Try me with offers. The worst I can do is say no! -
200W 8 ohm 1x15" cab. VERY solidly built - no internal bracing, but double thickness of board and enough glue to sink a small boat(!), so it's effectively made of 36mm board. The driver's unbranded. Hardwear's all good strong stuff. It's on decent castors, and it's pretty small at only 24"W, 20"H (incl. castors) 15.5"D The input's on a speakon which is bored directly into the back of the cab - no thin metal plate. Grey carpet all round except the top, which I always planned to upholster. (Random I know, but guarantees a comfy seat at long practices etc!) but never got round to, so it's just in matt black on top. I've gigged this cab along with my usual 2x12", and it's a good punchy sound - just not what I'm looking for! After [b]£70[/b], or try me with offers. I'd love a swap for a Line 6 FBV.
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This is an obscure one... Sure some of you know more about this than I do, so all comments welcome! It's a 70s Orange 2x15" twin reflex horn cab. It is [b]BIG [/b]cab... And it needs work, so forgive the long description... This belongs to a friend of mine, but it's sat in my garage at the moment, so I'll do my best with any questions. I'm under the impression these cabs were re-issued in the 80s, and even these re-issues are rare. This has it's original, decidedly 70s looking fane drivers. One is [i]probably[/i] fine. The other is [b]definately[/b] in need of a re-cone. (looks as though spray glue's been used to fasten some grille cloth down over it at some stage, the glue's made a nasty mess on the surface of the cone, and though sound is produced, it's breaking up, and pushing the cone in and out produces a [i]grinding[/i] feel... So either voice coil out of alignment, or dead/dying voice coil. (if i were restoring the cab, it'd be either 2 new drivers, or i'd get both drivers re-coned unless advised otherwise) The big shame is it's not orange any more... the tolex has been removed, and black paint nastily applied. The orange logo has been retained and there are still bits of orange left under the corners and on the angled panel at the back behind the wheels... So it's definately a real orange, not a home built lookalike. As you'll imagine, I have little idea of price, and have to put one on, so I'll say [b]£300[/b]. If that sounds ridiculous, then try me with an offer. I'd love to see this cab go to a good home where it'll get restored and used, rather than languishing in my garage.
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[quote name='mrjim' post='878819' date='Jun 27 2010, 01:45 PM']Do cash converters expect you to haggle with them? I’ve occasionally seen a decent bass or two but it never occurred to me to haggle. Is there a percentage you can reasonably expect to be knocked off?[/quote] I've found that paying cash and asking usually gets a 10% discount unless it's on something they've already discounted.
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I've put 8mm G and 10mm E on mine (measured vertically, at the end of the 'board to the centre line of the string). There's a tiny buzz in 1st and 2nd position, but NO relief in the fingerboard. (String lies flat down the 'board if pushed down to touch at the bridge end and at the nut.) I'd usually have more relief in than that - a couple of mm at the middle of the vibrating length. I'm using 4/4 spirocores (steel core) on a 3/4 scale length.
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I only tend to change mine when I try a different sort. Most of my basses have flats of halfrounds on though... The one with rounds on tends to have them changed every 6 months or so, just depends on when I notice there's no top end left and start to get annoyed! The thomastik flats on my fretless 6 string've been on for 3 years, and no sign of changing them any time soon...
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I do all my upright playing on a solid electric. Both rockabilly slap and pizz. It's 3/4 scale length and i've popped 4/4 steel core thomastiks on ,(for lower tension) the action's as low as I can get away with for slap, which makes it a fine general-purpose instrument. I've gigged it playing jazz, folk, rockabilly, even played some classic rock on it... so no issues with playability. I used to spend a fair bit of time over on: www.rockabillybass.com/ which was enlightening... +1 on the comments about ebony fingerboards... The denser wood gives a higher pitch to the slap too.
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Surely whether you might consider changing it yourself depends on the construction... I tend to build mine captive, so it'd be a fingerboard off job if a truss rod ever broke. ... That's me though... not fender! As for a buzz on open A, that could be movement of the rod left to right in the slot. (nothing to worry about - often there's rubber pads to take that movement up) If the adjustment on the rod's now loose, then we can expect a broken rod. If the adjustment's still tight, I'd be tempted to pour some oil down the rod and turn it back and forth a bit, as it's most likely to be corrosion (either from damp athmosphere, leaving in cars overnight or even from glue from manufacture) causing the tightness. A bit of 3 in 1 (or similar light oil) might ease it.
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A lot of small studios and PAs had/have behringer composer pros... They're OK. Don't have the reassuring feel of something more expensive, but the sound's fine. I've got one of them and an Alesis 3630 on studio duties and a samson s.com in my bass rig. Samson's the worst of the lot - suffers from the cheap pots and switches factor. I link one channel of the samson into the other, and use 1 side for compression and the other for limiting. That way, there's 2 stages of gain reduction, so it sounds smoother. Key listen lets you send a signal into the compressor to activate the compressor, but not feed its audio to the output. You'd use it to (for example) duck the bass in time with the kick drum to make the kick appear louder in the mix.
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get a proper setter, then attack it with files and a grinder. Sharpen the pointy end, then open the "roundy" bits so it sits further round the back of the post. Remove sharp edges from the round end. Once you've done that, the post'll stay stuck to the pointy end better, (so less annoying dropping the post inside the bass) and the work to the other end relly helps with small movements... In standard form, they tend to dig their corners into the post. Another good trick is to wind insulating tape, or pop some heat shrink tube over the shank of the setter. Saves mangling the varnish round the f fole. They're ridiculously expensive for what they are, but an invaluable tool.
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I know I've worked on one... Think it's just one of the badge engineered chinese cheapies. Got it in my head it was a bit yellow in colour... But I could be making that up! Worth a look at that price if you don't have to travel too far.