son of frog

So i have this Bridge with Gold plating, Obviously not real gold i hope... But its wearing away on the edges and starting to look unsightly, Plus it doesn't match any of the other hardware on the bass... So obviously the gold (coloured) plating is really thin, And i want to instead get a nice shiny new Chrome / Silver colour from underneath... So whats the best way to go around this without scratching the Chrome surface underneath, I was thinking that if its thin enough that it wears under use then maybe something like wire wool will strip it back easily, But i dont really fancy doing that if it might scratch the chrome. So any suggestions / Possibly chemicals? i looked into it, well Googled it... and all it came up with was removing thick plating from watches and jewelery, i don't think this needs such harsh chemicals, and certainly not ones that will leave the nice chrome colour underneath looking dull... Although i may be wrong, Wire wool will / will not damage the chrome? Cheers.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1210500' date='Apr 24 2011, 11:23 PM']IIRC he said around the £5-600, but that's an early prototype and it's subject to my memory so that could be way off. He says around $1,000 in the video so it could be more.[/quote] hmm that is a little pricey, Especially as you no longer get to wow people with how bass like your ukulele is.

[quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1203844' date='Apr 18 2011, 05:32 PM']I had a go on the one at about 2:30 in this video: It was fun, I might be tempted to pick one up when they come out later this year.[/quote] Wow, that is awesome, Do we have any rough idea around what price these will retail at?

Probably cause half the paints missing... also he doesnt mention what state the electronics are in, Probably quite bad, Also he isn't the original owner and so i expect its quite hard to tell if it has had any aftermarket parts fitted. Yet still its quite nice for that price... I wish i had a bigger wallet.

[quote name='RhysP' post='1209218' date='Apr 23 2011, 03:05 PM']Drink lots of of red wine. Vomit on hardware. Leave overnight. Chrome will be completely f***ed in the morning - believe me, I've done it. [/quote] If anyones interested i found a guy who will relic any type of hardware he sells, does it really well too. these look nice, all custom done by him. [url="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=280665088332&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en#ht_1039wt_975"]http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...n#ht_1039wt_975[/url] those are quite expensive, But he has some really nice 70's ones not too badly priced and some other great hardware like bridge / pickup covers.

Done.

I've used the Kinsman and Stagg ones, No difference in quality, both seemed good, but now upgraded to Pedaltrain, and using the kinsman & stagg as Kit / Cable boxes. Only because the power supply and cables underneath are much more organized, and i hate mess. Also used an SKB pedalboard which was awesomely light but really durable, and has an inbuilt power supply for 8 pedals, even 9vAC or battery connectors, Currently selling (contact me if interested) though because i'm downsizing on pedalboards. If you've only got the few pedals, ie. 4 / 5, i would look into the Pedal-train Nano, if you don't plan on buying loads, its around £50 and looks the biz, i really need to find the time to take some pics of mine, I managed to squeeze 3 boss pedals and 2 MXR pedals all onto it. Plus it can be strapped to your bag / guitar case, and weights virtually nothing.

just think... what is a more similar shape to a human finger? 1. Round edge of screwdriver 2. Sharp knife! the decisions easy. haha Just make sure you keep pressing and adjusting then testing, then adjust etc. might end up worse if you over do it.

[quote name='UncleMeat' post='1182113' date='Mar 30 2011, 01:01 PM']There have been problems recently with getting them from Leo Quan in the US, according to shops/sites I've talked to. I don't know the reason, whether its distro or whatever. Hopefully supply to UK will improve soon.[/quote] Ive heard its just one man that makes them... CHUCK NORRIS. but seriously, if it is just one guy or a small group their priority is obviously going to be for the many Fender models that come with them already fitted, and not silly mugs like us who are desperate for them... Ive seen some Badass III's but i cant remember where, selling for about £65... But the Badass II really looks the business.

These headphones are great in studio situations or just for listening to music in peace. Sennheiser HD280 PRO [url="http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000065BPB/ref=asc_df_B000065BPB2654840?smid=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&tag=googlecouk06-21&linkCode=asn&creative=22206&creativeASIN=B000065BPB"]http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000065BPB/ref=...ASIN=B000065BPB[/url]

[quote name='icastle' post='1208718' date='Apr 22 2011, 10:31 PM']everything from brillo pads to urine. I've not seen the results after experimenting though[/quote] haha, yes indeed, i'd love to know if there is a quicker way, I would have thought although urine does have corrosive properties it is also great at sterilising things, so would potentially just remove any minor corrosion likely to occur?

Hey guys, had a search and a little look and couldn't find anything on this, also didn't really know where to post this? but here will do... Basically i'm building a 1962 P Bass, from various parts etc. and i was wondering, Have Fender started releasing Road Worn bass tuners / bridges, as separate items? I had a look on ebay, all i can find is old vintage ones, which are hugely expensive and may suffer from age related issues. I want aged looking hardware really but without the drawbacks of aged hardware, If fender haven't started making them separate parts yet, is there any way i can age chrome hardware to get that look, I've always wondered how fender did it, I'm guessing some form of magnetic stripping process... if i didn't just make that up! -Tom

[quote name='RhysP' post='1207487' date='Apr 21 2011, 08:14 PM']Did you gig them? I only change strings about twice a year when not gigging, but two hours on a sweaty stage used to completely kill my strings.[/quote] Yeah the day after, usually i replace them before every gig, but now i'm doing maybe 2 / 3 gigs a week so its not so financially viable, haha, And thats true, may have been the sweat, hopefully this fast fret stuff will prevent that a bit. But yeah i will get some Fast Fret, they sell it in my local guitar store i just found out, Cheers.

Right, basically i have just put a set of Ernie Balls on my bass, and it sounded great, put them on last friday, And now to me they sound near dead!? Dull and lifeless, or any high tone they have is just nasty, well to my ears anyway. I know people say about cold conditions, but it has been in its hard-case upstairs, and about dirty fingers \ hands, well i do try to wash hands before use, but even the dirtiest hands couldn't ruin strings this fast, Before i had these strings i had some Stadium Elites on there, which died relatively fast too, but not as bad, Note also that the EB strings i got were the hybrid variety, but did not come in the vacuum pack that you usually come to expect with Ernie Balls. I dont know if it would make a difference but the Bass is a Fender 1956 re-issue MIM. I just really cant afford to be dishing out another circa £20 for more strings, but for gigs i really have to, I'm very paranoid about these things, I've seen kits to help maintain string life? but no longer see them anywhere, what happened? Is there any preference for long lasting strings that maintain that punchy crisp sound for longer? I will upload a Video or sound demo later today, keep in mind that they were changed about midday friday, so its only been about 5 / 6 days. cheers.

I too have a Bass Big Muff Pi, Its quite hard though to get the levels right using it in a live situation, because i have found that, although theres still low end in there it does lose a bit, You can regain it by increasing the pedals Volume, but getting this right with a full band takes a lot of tinkering, because if you don't get it right it will either drown everyone else out or the opposite and you will be too quiet / be lost completely. Great for messing about with, needs a lot of time spent perfecting it for a good live fuzz / crunch As for your needs, just a bit of crunch, i would say go for the Ashdown as from what i've heard, you can keep all your lows and highs with that and just add a fuzz / crunch to your mid section, which sounds ideal.

Yeah seems like great value, Calculated about £22 to get all the necessary kit to set up a small pedal board like this... Power Supply 9V DC 1500MA for Boss etc Effects Pedals x1 £11.00 Cable Wrap Black - 3 Metre Pack x2 £1.98 Mains Lead Fig 8 to UK Plug - 3 Metres x1 £2.30 Daisy Chain 5 Way - Right Angled Plugs x1 £5.92 Nylon Cable Tie Black 300mm x 4.5mm - Ten Pack x2 £1.00 Cheers for all the help, worked out cheaper than getting another 10 way power supply or getting a boss one and boss daisy chain. and including the cost of cable ties and cable wrap to keep all my jack / DC cables organized. Tom

[quote name='Doddy' post='1205066' date='Apr 19 2011, 06:35 PM']Have a look at Johnny Shredfreak- I got mine from there They are only a couple of quid and they're really good quality.[/quote] Yeah i had a look on there, and you're probably right about the TU-2's output, better to use a chain straight from the 9v power source. They also sell the ones with the Right angled DC connectors, But anyone know of a pretty heavy duty 9v power supply, (a single one) as the boss / digitech ones are all a bit flimsy to be honest, anything with a bit more bulk in the cable? more like an instrument cable? I know this isn't a huge issue just would be less chance of malfunction after stepping on it numerous times.

[quote name='DanOwens' post='1204257' date='Apr 18 2011, 10:57 PM']Yes, it is confusing but I think it's saying anything will work. As an aside, the amp signal flow is usually input>preamp>fx loop>power amp>speaker. As such, by plugging into the fx return you bypass the preamp and plug straight into the power amp. Dan[/quote] ahh yeah, cheers, thats always where i get mixed up... Preamps... Poweamps...

[quote name='Wally' post='1201264' date='Apr 15 2011, 10:24 PM']This should help: from the manual. WITH BASS AMP: Run the 1/4” output of the SansAmp directly into the input of the power amp input, a.k.a.“effects return”[/quote] I swear it just contradicted itself? Directly into the powe amp input? then it says, Effects return? huhhh [quote name='Wally' post='1201264' date='Apr 15 2011, 10:24 PM']PLACEMENT ORDER OF OTHER EFFECTS In most cases, your bass should be plugged directly into the SansAmp. we recommend: Place the following effects BEFORE the SansAmp VT Bass: Wah-Wah, Pre-Amp, Compressor, Fuzz Box, Envelope Follower. Place the following in the FX loop or AFTER SansAmp VT Bass: Chorus, Delay, EQ, Pitch Shifter, Reverb.[/quote] And again, it says Bass should be inputted into the effect, but this cant be done in an FX loop, but then they give a list of FX that should come before it? I would guess that in a live situation through an amp it would be best to assume it should go into an FX loop. haha from what i can gather anyway. Thanks for digging this out, i might be mistaken, but maybe this is slightly misleading?

Hiya I have a Pedal-train nano, which i use as a backup board, on it in order of pedals i have From Amp --- Boss TU-2 --- MXR M109 EQ --- Boss BF-3 --- Boss ODB-3 --- Back To Amp And since the TU-2 has a daisy chain function to power other pedals from a single 9v supply i was wondering, can you get Daisy chains of any desired length? Also possibly ones that have Right angled inputs? If i want one for just these 4 pedals, including the TU-2, and maybe one for 5, Inc TU-2? I looked for quite a while to find some? maybe get them custom made? But if i could find pre-made ones obviously it would be cheaper... Thanks. Tom

Ahh, You see, i think my combo is actually connected to the 10" speaker via this external speaker output, I will enclose a picture to show what i mean.

I have a Trace Elliot BLX80 Combo, and basically what i want to do is take out the head unit from the combo, which can be done with relative ease with some screws on the rear, It has a Speaker output, which at the moment is plugged into the Combos 1x15" speaker, but this speaker is pretty knackered, and old, I was thinking about putting the Head through a 4x10" And the Cabinet i had in mind is the Cheap Marshall MBC410 (around £200) But... and this is a big but, The combo has a label on the speaker output saying 8Ohms and the head is 80watts. The Marshall cabinet is rated 600watts @ 4Ohms... And i just wanted to clarify whether the Cabinet can be used? My immediate assumption was that it cant? But i may be wrong, it would be nice to know before i end up spending more money on an 8Ohm Cab. Cheers.

Hiya heres a link for our bands website, 5 piece covers band, anything from Beatles to Jimmy Cliff to Lady GaGa. We can also take requests and learn songs of your choice. Also We can cater to dress regulations, White / Black suits if preferred etc. Please feel free to get in touch. Tom. [url="http://www.myoddfriends.com/myoddfriends/"]http://www.myoddfriends.com/myoddfriends/[/url]