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Posted (edited)

Well after a series of trades, I picked this up today from a very strange dealership in Manchester, which takes up a whole upstairs factory floor.

 

So it's an Overwater Perception Custom Classic made in 2006. The main differences from the Inspiration/Progress series is that the older basses have the pickups  further back towards the bridge & closer together, producing quite the punch in the mids department, not unlike a rampaging horde of angry Stingrays. I particularly liked the Rosewood on Mahogany spec as it reminds me of my first Status bass which I bought in 1990.

 

After putting on some new Elixirs and adjusting the truss rod, the only issue is that despite the string height being just about perfect from frets 1-7, the huge brass blocks on the bridge don't allow the strings to go low enough between frets 12 & 24. I'll call Overwater tomorrow and see if they have any smaller string blocks for these old bridges, and visit my tech to see if the string grooves on the E & B blocks can be widened/deepened. 

 

 

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Edited by HeadlessBassist
  • Like 11
Posted

These are fantastic instruments, but I've never seen one that's light enough for my back, so I'll just have to look at the pictures. If Chris May brought out a Super Light series I'd have several in a heart beat.

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, chris_b said:

These are fantastic instruments, but I've never seen one that's light enough for my back, so I'll just have to look at the pictures. If Chris May brought out a Super Light series I'd have several in a heart beat.

 

This one's supposedly about 9.6lbs, so not overly heavy. It's amazing how the slightly different pickup positions affect things - this one is seriously mids-focused and cuts through hugely compared to the Inspiration I had for a short time, which was very subtle. 

Posted (edited)

Thanks Ped - these string guides are solid brass. The ones that have the separate inner block and the Alun key bolts in the top.Would an abrasive cord go through brass?

 

Interestingly, I spoke to Chris May this morning and his idea was to take the bridge off and rout a few MM deeper, thus setting the whole bridge lower. 🤔

 

 

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Edited by HeadlessBassist
Posted

Blimey they are chunky. those strings could be set better in the saddle by pressing hard over the bridge - that B string is looking like it could be bent much more than it is. That’ll help quite a lot. 
 

I’ve used abrasive cord on all sorts of bridges - I’m sure they’d make light work of brass. I tend to tie one end of the cord to a door handle and hold the other end, then with my other hand I run the bridge saddle over the cord. It doesn’t take long to deepen the groove - just be careful to keep it straight (ish). Oh and the saddle will get quite hot! 

I have only really needed to do it for D and G strings (I like a super low action particularly on the treble side) so you might need different gauge cord for the bass side, so it might be a different ball game. Hopefully Overwater can supply some lower profile saddles but if not, instead of a new bridge, this is worth a try. 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, ped said:

Blimey they are chunky. those strings could be set better in the saddle by pressing hard over the bridge - that B string is looking like it could be bent much more than it is. That’ll help quite a lot. 
 

I’ve used abrasive cord on all sorts of bridges - I’m sure they’d make light work of brass. I tend to tie one end of the cord to a door handle and hold the other end, then with my other hand I run the bridge saddle over the cord. It doesn’t take long to deepen the groove - just be careful to keep it straight (ish). Oh and the saddle will get quite hot! 

I have only really needed to do it for D and G strings (I like a super low action particularly on the treble side) so you might need different gauge cord for the bass side, so it might be a different ball game. Hopefully Overwater can supply some lower profile saddles but if not, instead of a new bridge, this is worth a try. 

 

 

Thanks, I'll give it a go when I get back from the SW on Friday - I think part of it is due to the Elixirs having no tapered end like some other strings do. They're actually quite a light gauge too - 40-95 set with a 125 B-string.

Posted
2 minutes ago, HeadlessBassist said:

 

Thanks, I'll give it a go when I get back from the SW on Friday - I think part of it is due to the Elixirs having no tapered end like some other strings do. They're actually quite a light gauge too - 40-95 set with a 125 B-string.


Those are what I use too. Just press firmly where the string leaves the bridge and re-tune. After a few goes they’ll sit nicely and you’ll notice a much more piano- like clarity. I believe setting the witness points like this is really important for tone, not to mention tuning stability 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Some chunky saddles on my Vigier Arpege fretless. 
 

I’ve actually found loads of bridges don’t allow for low enough saddles. 

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  • Like 1
Posted
4 minutes ago, ped said:

Some chunky saddles on my Vigier Arpege fretless. 
 

I’ve actually found loads of bridges don’t allow for low enough saddles. 

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If only everything was as easy as a Status!

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