Dingwall bridges

[wintoid]

I do my own setups on my basses, but the one bass I've never attempted to set up is my Dingwall, because I don't understand how the bridge works.  I did approach Dingwall through their website but have never received a response.  I wondered if someone here would know.

 

I've attached a picture of how my bridge looks.  I understand that the strings sit on top of screws, which can obviously be adjusted to change the string height.  What I don't understand is how the saddle is moved forward/backwards.  It looks like each saddle is a metal block, and each has two little holes in the top, which I presume contain some sort of screw.  Am I supposed to loosen those screws/bolts and then move the blocks forwards/backwards to adjust?  It seems a bit error-prone if so.  I can't work out how the screw/bolt (if there even is such a thing) is going to secure the block to stop it moving forwards/backwards.

 

Could anyone enlighten me?  I'm pretty crap with physical things like this.

[Lozz196]

Appears similar to Sandberg, it looks like there’s a screw on the back of the blocks just underneath the strings, if it works the same as Sandberg tightening this extends two locker bars either side of the block, so to adjust loosen this, then physically tap the block in the direction required. 

[wintoid]

Thanks for responding @Lozz196 I really appreciate it.  I think that's a trick of the light.  So far as I can see the block is just a solid lump on that plane.  Another pic attached.

 

The only things I can see that might be adjustable seem to be on the top of the block.  The whole thing seems very weird to me.  I guess it's held in place by the strings, but that seems quite insecure.

[wintoid]

I wonder if the right thing is to tag @Sheldon Dingwall

[MichaelDean]

I'm 99% sure Lozz will be right, but @Bass Direct will be able to help. Probably when they get back after the bank holiday. 

[wintoid]

1 hour ago, MichaelDean said:

I'm 99% sure Lozz will be right, but @Bass Direct will be able to help. Probably when they get back after the bank holiday. 

 

Thanks Michael!

[JazzyJ]

Slacken the two 1/6th AF allen grub screws. Loosen the string(s) a little, move the saddle. Tighten, re-tune, repeat as necessary.

I've just set up a Super P and all is well 👍 

 

[wintoid]

5 hours ago, JazzyJ said:

Slacken the two 1/6th AF allen grub screws. Loosen the string(s) a little, move the saddle. Tighten, re-tune, repeat as necessary.

I've just set up a Super P and all is well 👍 

 

Thanks JazzyJ.  So you're talking about the two holes on the top of the saddle block, and those secure the block in some way?  What does 1/6th AF mean?  Sorry, I'm not strong on this stuff!

[JazzyJ]

Yeah, the two holes on top of the saddle. One sixteenth A/F (imperial) is the size of the allen key that you require.

[Bassassin]

What a curious design - never had a close look at one of these before. So - I'm assuming the saddle blocks have tabs which sit in slots either side of the channels in the bridge base, so tightening the grub screws locks them in position in the channel?

 

A pair of button-head allens for saddles/height adjustment is an interesting solution - I've absolutely never seen that anywhere before.

[Teesee]

6 hours ago, wintoid said:

What does 1/6th AF mean?

AF simply means "across flats" It's a terminology used extensively (but not solely) on imperial tools, quite often for spanners too. So you 1/2" AF spanner is exactly that. Half an inch across the opposite sides of the hex bolt, and your 13mm spanner is just..well a 13mil spanner 😉. Don't ask me why, just seems to be more often used on imperial tools. Technically a 13mm AF spanner is correct too, but you don't often hear then called that.

In terms of allen keys it's just the measurement from one side of the flat to the other opposite side flat.

Also please don't use a metric allen key even if it looks like it'll fit as you'll bugger up your socket then have to spend a day trying to find SAE screws from a company who are prepared to sell you less than 10 for an exorbitant price are we're pretty well metric here now and SAE stuff is more specialised. 👍

You can get a set of imperial keys for about a fiver or so on Amazon, well worth having a set of both if you spend time messing with your basses.

 

[Teesee]

9 minutes ago, Bassassin said:

What a curious design - never had a close look at one of these before. So - I'm assuming the saddle blocks have tabs which sit in slots either side of the channels in the bridge base, so tightening the grub screws locks them in position in the channel?

 

A pair of button-head allens for saddles/height adjustment is an interesting solution - I've absolutely never seen that anywhere before.

Well to my untrained eye the button-heads act as the bridge action (saddle height), but the 2 grub screws on each block must be for setting intonation. I've had some strange bridges in the past that have a saddle locking screw, but these generally are angled and lock into the saddle slide. The grub screws on this saddle appear to be straight down and in my book that would notdo a great deal of good keeping saddle locked into position. Curious indeed mate.

@OP the best thing you can do is get yourself a set of imperial keys and just have a play with those recessed screws and see what that turns out?

[JazzyJ]

The saddles slide in the bridge assembly, locked in place with the allen screws.

 

[wintoid]

Thanks everyone, and especially @JazzyJ because it will give me some confidence to know I'm using the right tool (which I will order!).

[Bassassin]

1 hour ago, JazzyJ said:

The saddles slide in the bridge assembly, locked in place with the allen screws.

 

 

Thanks for that - that's what I guessed it must be doing! 👍