Truss rod options for a DIY neck

[Waddo Soqable]

As a addition to my questions about making a neck from oak, I'm wondering what any of you "build from scratch" guys would recommend for a Truss rod? 

Obvs there's double acting or one way, no doubt there's decently made and rubbish quality in both types, truss rods seem to not be overly expensive from what I've seen, but any to definitely avoid? 

I'd need to get a TR before going much further with the neck build idea, particularly as I'm intending to avoid routing by laminating a neck and using the centre strip glued in 'lower down' to leave a ready made channel for it to sit in.. don't know if this would suggest a particular type of TR? 

Any suggestions most welcome 👍

Edited April 18, 2023 by Waddo Soqable

[Andyjr1515]

A modern two-way without a sleeve at the adjuster end* is my recommendation.  I get mine from Tonetech.  They do a number of lengths, but this is an example:

 

https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/english/truss-rod-2-way-adjustable-bass.html

 

If your centre splice is 6mm wide and set at the correct depth, then there should be very little fettling needed with the slot.

 

Assuming a headstock adjustment, choose your length (from the nut) to where the neck isn't going to bend (ie where it thickens at the heel in the case of a through neck, or from the start of the neck pocket in the case of a bolt-on) + 30mm or so.  Exact doesn't matter as long as the end is anchored in the area that isn't going to bend.

 

By the way, two way truss rods are very often photographed upside down on commercial sites.  When fitting, the steel strip goes on the top, flush with the top of the fretboard, with the adjuster therefore deeper in the slot.    

 

*The reason I don't like the ones with the sleeves around the adjuster, such as the ones that (decent supplier) Northwest Guitars supply, is that the sleeve adds quite a bit of extra width that then needs chiselling out at the nut end.  If you do a cross section drawing of the neck at the nut end, you realise just how little timber there is left holding the headstock on (one of the reasons for the scandalously common head breaks on the earlier Gibson Les Paul's) - so every mm there counts!    

 

[BigRedX]

Why not make your own from scratch as shown by Stephen Delft in his series of articles on building a solid electric guitar in International Musician in the late 70s?

Edited April 19, 2023 by BigRedX

[Waddo Soqable]

7 hours ago, BigRedX said:

Why not make your own from scratch as shown by Stephen Delft in his series of articles on building a solid electric guitar in International Musician in the late 70s?

I can do "a bit of welding" so had in the past toyed with possibly maybe having a go at that kind of thing. 

[Waddo Soqable]

7 hours ago, Andyjr1515 said:

A modern two-way without a sleeve at the adjuster end* is my recommendation.  I get mine from Tonetech.  They do a number of lengths, but this is an example:

 

https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.uk/english/truss-rod-2-way-adjustable-bass.html

 

If your centre splice is 6mm wide and set at the correct depth, then there should be very little fettling needed with the slot.

 

Assuming a headstock adjustment, choose your length (from the nut) to where the neck isn't going to bend (ie where it thickens at the heel in the case of a through neck, or from the start of the neck pocket in the case of a bolt-on) + 30mm or so.  Exact doesn't matter as long as the end is anchored in the area that isn't going to bend.

 

By the way, two way truss rods are very often photographed upside down on commercial sites.  When fitting, the steel strip goes on the top, flush with the top of the fretboard, with the adjuster therefore deeper in the slot.    

 

*The reason I don't like the ones with the sleeves around the adjuster, such as the ones that (decent supplier) Northwest Guitars supply, is that the sleeve adds quite a bit of extra width that then needs chiselling out at the nut end.  If you do a cross section drawing of the neck at the nut end, you realise just how little timber there is left holding the headstock on (one of the reasons for the scandalously common head breaks on the earlier Gibson Les Paul's) - so every mm there counts!    

 

That's a brilliant run though, much appreciated! 👍