Andyjr1515 Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Hi I think I know the answer to this but, just in case I've missed something: I've been asked to set up a VERY simple switching system (no pots at all) - just a three position rotary switch: ON (no capacitor) - OFF - ON (with capacitor) where in both cases, the ON is direct wired pickup-to-jack via the rotary switch But, am I right in assuming that turning to or from the OFF is going to *Pop* through a live amp? I know for, say, a 5 way lever switch, there is a 'make before break' designed into the contact wiper. The question is - if this is a rotary switch, is there anyway of eliminating or at least reducing the *Pop* ? Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itu Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 (edited) Make-before-break is sure one option that helps. It is also possible to use a 1 M resistor to ground. I had a preamp override in my Modulus, and the pop was negligible with that 1 M. By the way, Kubicki had a five position switch with stdby after off. That way the output did not crackle. Edited February 7, 2022 by itu 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 1 minute ago, itu said: Make-before-break is sure one option that helps. It is also possible to use a 1 M resistor to ground. I had a preamp override in my Modulus, and the pop was negligible with that 1 M. Hmmm...that's a thought... Thanks - I'll investigate that 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Cribbin Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Personally, I'd try to avoid a rotary switch like the plague. I had a 2.5k PRS with their 5 way rotary switch. The pops/klunks between positions was one of the reasons I sold it. Has the person who wants it actually lived with a rotary switch before? Three way toggle is much more civilised. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 3 minutes ago, John Cribbin said: Personally, I'd try to avoid a rotary switch like the plague. I had a 2.5k PRS with their 5 way rotary switch. The pops/klunks between positions was one of the reasons I sold it. Has the person who wants it actually lived with a rotary switch before? Three way toggle is much more civilised. Yes - he has a couple of basses with rotaries fitted. That said, I will be sounding him out over using a lever instead...lets face it, it was exactly that issue that they were designed for Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itu Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 This is one of the few step attenuators I have made. No clicks. It is make-before-break. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 I've just had a pm from one of our much-respected... who makes make-before-break rotaries! I'll update after a couple more discussions 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 2 minutes ago, itu said: This is one of the few step attenuators I have made. No clicks. It is make-before-break. And this too! I knew this was the right forum to ask the question! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 Education is a wonderful thing When I order electrical components like switches from places like mouser/rs components/ etc, there are usually a dozen specifications associated with every item, that I have no idea what they mean. As long as things have the right number of poles and positions then most other stuff is not really relevant and so I don't worry about it. And so - when buying rotary switches in the past - the terms 'shorting' and 'non-shorting' hidden deep in the spec sheets will have gone right over my head. And now I know - through wise folks round here - that 'shorting' is indeed 'make before break'. And I've checked. And, by total toss of a coin luck, the rotary switch I already have in my bits box...just happens to be 'shorting'. And so, theoretically at least, I should be able to sort a pop free solution! Wouldn't have got there without the above wisdom and associated pm's - great forum, this - many thanks, folks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodinblack Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 2 hours ago, itu said: Make-before-break is sure one option that helps. It is also possible to use a 1 M resistor to ground. I had a preamp override in my Modulus, and the pop was negligible with that 1 M. the 1M is really just because you have a preamp. With the output of a preamp going through a capacitor, when you switch the preamp out of the circuit, the voltage can increase on the output of the capacitor. When you put it inline again that charge goes out through the socket. The 1M resistor keeps it down when it is out of circuit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
itu Posted February 8, 2022 Share Posted February 8, 2022 If you use a break-before-make switch, the 1 M may stop the clicks. But yes, that override switch with the battery powered section needs a resistor or it should only be used while the cable is disconnected. By the way, the Noll Mixpot did make a substantial difference in sound. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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