Fret buzz on 1st and 2nd frets of E string

[jmchich]

Hi, I bought a Tanglewood p bass copy a few months back. Action was insanely high when I bought it, so sent it to the shop with a new set of fender flatwounds. They did a really nice job setting it up, but apparently had to file the nut to get the strings seated (they are pretty heavy gauge). It played lovely when I picked it up, with a nice low action, but as the strings settled in, it has developed an annoying buzz on the 1st 2 frets of the E string. I raised the bridge screws on that string, which has reduced the problem but not eliminated it. If you play really softly it is possible to avoid it, but who wants to do that?

It doesn't happen on any of the other strings or frets. Is it where the nut was cut, or is it just because it's a cheap bass? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[gary mac]

You could check whether the nut has been cut too low on the E by slackening off the string and putting a little slither of match stick or similar in the groove. Re tune and see if it has stopped the buzz.

[cameltoe]

It will either be the relief or the nut.

If it's the relief, i'd be expecting it to buzz more around the 4th fret but it's worth checking. Fret 1st and last fret, and sight gap between 8th fret and bottom of string. For a low action, aim for a gap about credit card thickness here. If it's looking less than this, the neck may be a bit too straight, which will mean you will need to loosen the truss rod. if the gap looks ok, chances are its the nut.

Adjusting at the bridge is merely compensating for a problem elsewhere and you shouldn't have to do this.

Either way, if you paid to get it set up now it's playing like this, take it back and get them to look at it.

[jmchich]

After putting in a big old wodge of match (about 2/3 width of a match) it has solved the buzzing.

So basically, I'm looking at getting a new nut cut, aren't it?

[jmchich]

Oops, your message came through after I posted, cameltoe, will check what you said and get back to you.

[jmchich]

Hmm, so I adjusted the neck relief. To get rid of the buzzing, I had to make it a little over the thickness of a credit card. The tradeoff is that the action is now higher on the higher frets than it was, though it *seems* no more difficult to play than before. I think I've got it sorted, but tbh I'm still fumbling in the dark a bit (as the actress said to the bishop).

[dmccombe7]

there is a little bit of a trade off with action. If you play hard you will need a slightly higher action IME.
Also whether or not you use plectrum or fingers will make a slight differance too.
This may be an odd question but is it noticable thru the amp or are you hearing it direct from the bass itself while at home.

Think some manufacturers websites give you string heights at 1st and 12th fret along with set up as per Cameltoe's instruction above. 2mm at 8th fret is approx how mines are set up.

Dave

[jmchich]

I imagine the tradeoff is worse in cheap basses? Time to start saving for a Fender P Bass

I use fingers, not a pick.

It is slightly noticeable through the amp, but mostly when playing unplugged (how I generally practice at home).

[cameltoe]

Set your relief first, as you have done.

Now you can go back and adjust at the bridge, if you need the action lower. Adjust small amounts at a time, retune after each adjustment, and get the saddles as low as you can without buzzing from 12th fret up. I generally check there is no buzzing from 12-15th fret if I play fairly heavy.

In theory, with relief set right, and nut cut correctly, (and in tune!) if it's not now buzzing on 12th-15th frets it won't be buzzing lower down.

In theory!

[jmchich]

I think the relief is set right. Basically it now won't buzz when playing, and the bridge saddles are set as low as they can go without getting buzzing on the high frets.