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'Richlite' fingerboards. Any thoughts?


Longmayyourun
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I'm about to start a self build - fretless, 4 string, Basslines MM pup - and am considering using one of these phenolic resin impregnated 'boards, just because it would be a new thing for me.
Is there anyone out there who can offer experiences / advice regarding the suitability and workability of such things.

Thanks for your time
A

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[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1[/url] if I am correct in my assumption, these are the same as ebanol. I found a few posts on here about them, mostly the aftercare it seems. If you search the Luthiers Corner section on Talkbass there are a few cases of people who have used them long term on fretless basses and seem impressed with the performance........which would encourage me to give it a try. Is it that much cheaper than black ebony, or are you specifically using it as an alternative for it's unique properties? By the way you can get a board from Rothko and Frost for £28 [url="http://shop.rothkoandfrost.co.uk/fingerboard-blanks-s/3135.htm"]http://shop.rothkoandfrost.co.uk/fingerboard-blanks-s/3135.htm[/url] This sounds like an intriguing build by the way, can we have some more details please? Good luck Harry

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Thanks for your interest Harry - I did do a quick search in the hope of finding a post from someone who has built using a micarta/ebanol/richlite 'board, but without luck. Fortunately the blank I've got (from Tonetech) is large enough to allow me to experiment with offcuts to see how it glues and finishes.
It might take a while but when I get the build off the ground I'll post a few pics. [i]If[/i] it turns out well - you're just down the road from here and you'd be welcome to look it over.
Cheers, Andy

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All I know about richlite has been derived from web searches related to the stuff in relation to acoustic guitars, specifically the less expensive Martins. Most people seem happy with its playability. There's a vid somewhere (sorry, can't remember where, it was ages ago) in which a luthier compares fretting a richlite board with an ebony board. His view was entirely favourable, asserting that richlite was easier to work with.

For myself, I've played a few Martins with richlite boards. The first time, I didn't even notice the difference and I've been around guitars a good long while (not meaning to be immodest).

Sorry if this is OT to your specific question, but hopefully it's some kind of background

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The blank I got is more than long enough for a 24 fret 'board and about 4 inches wide, 1/4 inch thick (sorry - I'm that old). Darkish charcoal grey in colour and slightly rough finish - a bit like worn out 240 grit glasspaper. To be honest it didn't look that encouraging. Yesterday I took an offcut from the blank, glued part of it to some Wenge (I'll see how that went when I get out to the workshop) and set about polishing another part. It's hard stuff. Worked down through the grits to 800, then some fine wire wool followed by T-cut. It comes up [i]very[/i] dark grey, not quite black, no sign of any 'grain' or structure on the face or edge, shiny and extremely hard. I did a completely un-scientific thumbnail test on it and couldn't make a mark at all, whereas the same test did mark a piece of Ebony (left a slight depression that I could feel)
If it sticks to the wood successfully I think I'll go ahead with using it. I'll let you know.
Andy

Ed. Just realised I haven't actually answered the question. You'd treat it like any other fingerboard blank for shaping, but I reckon it will be a longish job with lots of re-sharpening if you use block planes or scrapers, and messy with ultra fine black dust if you use sanding sticks

Edited by Longmayyourun
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  • 1 month later...

Actually some progress, but no photos I'm afraid. Epoxy resin is the answer to gluing this stuff, but it needs to be abraded with something like 80 grit paper and then thoroughly cleaned to remove all traces of dust. Ive got as far as gluing up my neck blank - laminates of figured Sapele and Wenge - fixed the 'board on and shaped it. It took about twice as long as a Rosewood 'board. This stuff is hard. Went down as far as 2000 grit paper before T-cut and then Brasso and it's smooth as a very smooth thing and shiny. Putting the radius on the 'board has revealed [i]very slight [/i]lines a bit like contour lines on a map where I've cut down through the laminates of the material. You can only see this when holding it up to bright light, not at all from more than about 18 inches away.

I'll endeavour to get some pics sorted soon. Thank for your interest

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  • 2 weeks later...

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