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attaching a bridge to a body without any holes.


tommorichards
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When I did it with an EB0 copy, I had a lot of the area covered in masking tape, used a long metal ruler to trace a line either side of the neck down along the body to the tail end. Dead centre of those lines I measured the scale, double-checked from the 12th & (as Purpolaris said) had that line about half way along the saddles' adjustment area. Marked up on the masking tape and drilled while the tape was still in place.

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Actually, to make sure there is enough rearwards travel to intonate the E string, I would measure almost to the front of the intonation range. In other words, put the bridge a little farther back than simply 1/2 the distance of the saddles.

But it is a balance: too far back, and either the G string won't intonate, or there will be insufficient "break angle" over the G string saddle to secure it properly to prevent string buzz or a wobbly bridge saddle. Too far forward, and either the E string won't intonate, or there will be too much break angle for the E string and it will bind, risking breakage.

On my custom fanned fret bass, I was able to cut a bridge in half between the D and A saddles and place each half accordingly for its travel.

Here's more:
[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/precision-bass-bridge-location-659033/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f18/precision-bass-bridge-location-659033/[/url]
[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/fender-jazz-bridge-placement-706095/"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/fender-jazz-bridge-placement-706095/[/url]

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[quote name='ikay' timestamp='1349557800' post='1827822']
[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f57/bridge-placement-250675/"]http://www.talkbass....acement-250675/[/url]

The 5th post down (from Rodent) might be helpful
[/quote]

I read that & used it as a reference when I was changing the bridge on my bass.

The only thing I didn't get is why clamp the neck? Why not just put the bolts in to hold it?

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