70's Jazz Bass pot replacement questions

[countjodius]

Hi guys,

The pots on my workhorse early 70's jazz have passed the point of no return, and it's finally time to replace them. Having had no experience with this before, I am curious as to whether there will be a change in tone with new (quality) pots, and if so will the change be dramatic? Also, can you recommend pots to replace them with?

Thanks!

[gary mac]

Some people believe that the pots do affect tone, I'm not one of them

Worth using quality ones though for longevity and performance. Check out CTS or maybe if you want to keep it original find some vintage ones that aren't knackered or get your existing ones refurbed with new parts inside but keeping the old original casings.

[MrFingers]

Pots do change tone, if you're switching values (replacing 250K pots by 500K pots make the sound a whole lot brighter. That's how the rhythm-circuit works on the Fender Jaguar & Jazzmaster guitars (1Meg (jag) or 250K (jazz) <> 50K (rhythm circuit)). If you change the pots with CTS 250K pots, you won't have any differences in terms of sound. CTS is "the standard" for quality pots, and used by Fender since the sixties. The only two things you can do is upgrade your capacitor to a PiO (Paper in Oil, like the Sprague Orange Drop), which gives a "not so muddy closed sound when the tone is rolled off"-sound, and replace the tonepot with a 250K LINEAR pot (which makes that your tone rolloff is very equal. The difference between 90% and 100% is the same as the difference between 0% and 10%). Fender used logarithmic pots for everything, making your tone pot more of an on-off switch.

[countjodius]

Cool thanks for all of the info. I've seen some original 70's pots online for a small fortune, so good to hear there won't be a difference in tone with quality new parts. Also good to know that I can get my current pots refurbed, didn't know that that was an option! Thanks

[iiipopes]

[quote name='MrFingers' timestamp='1346605814' post='1791127']
Pots do change tone, if you're switching values (replacing 250K pots by 500K pots make the sound a whole lot brighter. That's how the rhythm-circuit works on the Fender Jaguar & Jazzmaster guitars (1Meg (jag) or 250K (jazz) <> 50K (rhythm circuit)). If you change the pots with CTS 250K pots, you won't have any differences in terms of sound. CTS is "the standard" for quality pots, and used by Fender since the sixties. The only two things you can do is upgrade your capacitor to a PiO (Paper in Oil, like the Sprague Orange Drop), which gives a "not so muddy closed sound when the tone is rolled off"-sound, and replace the tonepot with a 250K LINEAR pot (which makes that your tone rolloff is very equal. The difference between 90% and 100% is the same as the difference between 0% and 10%). Fender used logarithmic pots for everything, making your tone pot more of an on-off switch.
[/quote]
+1

[brensabre79]

I wouldn't bother with Vintage pots, I don't see the value in them.
Keep the originals in case you want to sell your bass as all original. But if you pay a fortune for some 70s ones they are likely to be worn and the date codes won't match your 70s bass exactly anyway so those who know... will know.
Just replace with CTS pots of the same type. This is what Fender used. Most people accept that parts are replaced as part of the maintenance of a working instrument and it shouldn't devalue in any way, but keep the originals just in case!

[rmorris]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1346757863' post='1792674']
I wouldn't bother with Vintage pots, I don't see the value in them.
Keep the originals in case you want to sell your bass as all original. But if you pay a fortune for some 70s ones they are likely to be worn and the date codes won't match your 70s bass exactly anyway so those who know... will know.
Just replace with CTS pots of the same type. This is what Fender used. Most people accept that parts are replaced as part of the maintenance of a working instrument and it shouldn't devalue in any way, but keep the originals just in case!
[/quote]

+1

there's no real 'magic' in pots of the same value but using a good quality conductive plastic or cermet type would be better in terms of noise when moving and reliability over time compared to carbon types. I don't know if these are readily available in the high resistance values needed on passive controls. CTS definitely have a reputation for quality - are their 250K or 500K pots carbon or conductive plastic ?
There's a noise penalty using higher value pots if not at maximum ( worst is at 'halfway' 50% or -6dB position ) but you need high values on output of passive pickup tp maintain a decent frequency response.

On tone controls , to be honest , I don't really see the point of passive unbuffered tone controls as I've always found it more effective to do that stuff on pedal or amp eq (or use old strings :-)

[iiipopes]

We're not talking "new old stock" from the time period the bass was built. We're talking every-day, off-the-shelf, standard parts supplier CTS 250 audio taper pots that are the industry standard, still made the same, value-for-money pots that are in the vast majority of instruments and amplifiers out there, irrespective of make or model.

[countjodius]

[quote name='brensabre79' timestamp='1346757863' post='1792674']
I wouldn't bother with Vintage pots, I don't see the value in them.
Keep the originals in case you want to sell your bass as all original. But if you pay a fortune for some 70s ones they are likely to be worn and the date codes won't match your 70s bass exactly anyway so those who know... will know.
Just replace with CTS pots of the same type. This is what Fender used. Most people accept that parts are replaced as part of the maintenance of a working instrument and it shouldn't devalue in any way, but keep the originals just in case!
[/quote]

Again thanks for the opinions gentlemen. Good to hear brensabre, for me a vintage bass is for playing & not keeping all pristine in a glass case- I'd much rather it was playable than "all original"