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rhythmbug

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Everything posted by rhythmbug

  1. Bump. Cash/paypal/bank transfer only, no trades. Reverse polarity cable not supplied, works best with the 18v adapter supplied.
  2. Deposit made on a BB2, building demolition report to follow soon.
  3. Comes boxed with UK power supply (and detachable plug). In full working order and great condition, a couple of minor cosmetic blemishes. Velcro to the rear. £125 collection in London E17 / £135 shipped to UK / £145 shipped to Europe Review here: [url="http://www.bass-pedals.com/diamond-bcp1-bass-comp-review/"]http://www.bass-peda...ss-comp-review/[/url] My feedback: [url="http://basschat.co.uk/topic/218178-feedback-for-rhythmbug/page__p__2883450__hl__rhythmbug__fromsearch__1#entry2883450"]http://basschat.co.u..._1#entry2883450[/url] Cheers Mike
  4. Thank you very much indeed chaps!! Exactly what I wanted to hear!!
  5. I need a new cab and the specs of the BB2 really appeal to me. Except the issue the impedance, the cab is 8 ohm where as the Mark Bass is 500w @ 4 ohms or [b]300w @ 8 ohms[/b]. Is that enough power for small gigs of a loud heavy rock band? I want to have enough power on tap to avoid taking the MB into clipping territory. Would consider other makes & models but ideally has a tweeter/crossover control , I'm not looking for a vintage vibe. Nothing over 2x12 in size, must be compact. Cheers for any words of wisdom. Mike
  6. I recently acquired a Spector Euro5 with 2 x 40DC pickups and dropped an Aguilar OBP3 preamp in it (with a pickup balance knob). With both pups equally balanced, the tone is killer, it growls like hell. But I find with the balance knob rolled towards the bridge pup, I can't get the "burpy" tone that I get out of other basses when playing near the bridge. It sounds rather brittle and trebly. So I'm considering putting 40J or a 40P5 on the bridge. Though the 40P5 seems very scarcely stocked, anywhere. I do have another bass with a 40DC on the neck and 40TW on the bridge, that combo is killer. But I don't have an EMG circuit on the Spector, so the TW isn't an option here. I'm new to Spector basses so apologies if this has been covered before. Appreciate any tried and tested words of widsom!
  7. I'm now back in UK, this unit is still available.
  8. bump and price drop to £90 Cut off date for sale 28 August and then I'm off overseas for a while, someone grab this!!
  9. Hey Guys Thanks for all your input (pardon the pun) [i][b]Lowdown[/b][/i] hit the nail on the head, it was being primarily caused by Roland's compression software that was running in the background. Once I switched that off, freedom! One other thing that helped was cranking the volume on my Paradriver way up and then using the interface's volume knob to fine tune only. So now I'm completely bypassing the software compression, but using a compressor in my chain of effects, balanced DI and then some post-recording compression to smooth out the processed EQ tweaks. Very satisfied with the sound and strength of the signal now. To the Focusrite users, I did own one and agree it is great for recording bass, but the 2i2 is lousy for high output guitars like Les Pauls, it I found it nearly impossible to prevent it from clipping, it has too much gain, really needs a pad. Which is why I bought the Roland. Cheers
  10. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 1 post to view.
  11. Another reluctant sale, this has been my workhorse for years. My guitarist will kill me when he finds out I've sold this, but fortunately my custom Cog slab hunk of metal is holding the fort of slunge down. Comes boxed with instruction sheet. In very good condition, never had an issue with it, 1 owner. Velcro on the back, no rubber feet sorry. Sold as is. You know what it does, no introduction necessary. It grinds, it barks, it slunges. Damn well. Looking for £95 shipped UK. Check my feedback. Cheers
  12. £135 shipped to UK. £150 shipped to Europe. Very reluctant sale, only to recoup funds thrown into a custom Cog unit. This unit is a beast, there is no hiding it. 2 channels, one for standard tone setting, the other volume and gain boost. Or use both of them as your standard tone if it's a snarling hound you're trying to emulate. Comes boxed with 30v power supply. In full working order, but there are a couple of blemishes and scratches to the casing. Velcro to reverse, I do not have the rubber feet it came with. Sold as is. I ordered this direct from Tronographic in USA. Full instructions here [url="http://www.tronographic.com/manuals/Tronographic-RustyBoxUserManual.pdf"]http://www.tronograp...xUserManual.pdf[/url] Somebody buy this before I change my mind...
  13. Pretty rudimentary question here but one that is really bugging me. Is it just me or are audio interfaces generally not very bass friendly? I seldom get a decent volume from the signal compared to other instruments such as guitar. My current interface is a Roland Quad Capture but I had this issue with previous interfaces as well. I get into clipping territory very quickly and the recorded waveforms are very narrow in girth with little to no transients at all. Meanwhile, the guitar waveforms are full and with loads of volume. How I've been getting around it up to now is using VSTs to boost the bass volume, but in principle I feel this is just turd polishing. Why does the clipping LED on interfaces light up when the waveform of a bass signal is so meagre and anemic? How can I record a more full bodied signal, or is this just not possible with bass? Bass - Warwick Corvette with EMG pre Chain - pedalboard + Para driver direct out (balanced XLR) Interface - Roland Quad Capture DAW - iMac Software - Ableton 9 Cheers Mike
  14. [quote name='chris_b' timestamp='1436518475' post='2818728'] but don't follow any advice about drilling or filing your bass. [/quote] Ignorance is bliss eh? It's a well known solution to a well known problem with 'wicks.
  15. Yes, I had the same problem with my Warwick Corvette Std and filed the slots in the tail piece with a needle file. Took about 30 mins to do both the E and B slots. Now it fits .135 gauge B's and bulky E's with no issue. Go for it
  16. I took it to the Gallery yesterday and explained the situation. One comment John made surprised me, that it doesn't matter how much you tighten the truss rod in one sitting. I was led to believe that you should stick to about 1/2 turn a day. Anyway I got a voicemail today saying the truss rod has been greased up and it was "working but still tight". He agreed it definitely needs a fret job as it's not level and seemed to say that will help with the truss rod issue (though I'm not sure how those issues are related).
  17. Thanks for the advice guys, it's back to the Gallery this one goes I think!
  18. [quote name='Billy Apple' timestamp='1435917873' post='2813550'] If it was me... If you've just bought it you need to PM the seller. Then take it back to the Gallery. Maybe the seller might shoulder the cost of the set-up? I certainly wouldn't mess on with it any further. [/quote] I already did. The seller only owned it 6 months and played it just a couple of times. http://basschat.co.uk/topic/262748-spector-euro-5-sold/page__p__2790860__hl__spector__fromsearch__1#entry2790860
  19. Hi all I recently acquired a 2003 Spector Euro 5 that has been previously owned by BC members. I'm told it was previously set up by the Bass Gallery. The action was quite high and there was a lot of relief in the neck. I tried to tighten the truss rod, it was extremely stiff. I managed to tighten it by maybe 3 x 1/8 turns, but in the process, I snapped my Warwick Truss rod tool, the head of it broke off and wedged itself inside the cavity. I pried it out and carried on with a regular hex wrench. I had to use an oven mit to hold the hex wrench so I didn't rip my hand apart, it was that stiff! I spread the process out over 2 days. Checked with a feeler gauge, it seemed ok so I wound up the strings and adjusted the action. Pretty buzzy especially in the higher register, and the B string seemed to buzz everywhere. Let it sit for 2 days and inspected again. Unsatisified and worried about the state of the truss rod, I slackened the strings and completely loosened the truss rod and left it to sit for a week in hope the neck would stabilise a bit. Came back to it this morning. Tightened the truss rod 2 x 1/8 turns - it's still very tight, feels like I'm still forcing it. Wound up the strings and I'm back to where I started with a silly amount of relief. Not sure my little experiment achieved anything. I prefer to do setups myself but this feels a bit out of my league. Should I quit and take it to a tech? I did want to get the frets checked anyway because it seemed to buzz a lot more than it should with lower action. 12 fret + is buzz city. My concern though is that Bass Gallery have already worked on this bass and that's who I would use. Cheers Mike
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