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stevie

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Posts posted by stevie

  1. On 30/10/2021 at 17:35, JPJ said:

    I’ve read through the build threads and unless I’ve missed it, there’s one question I think hasn’t been answered. Is the physical proportions of a cab as important as the internal volume. Obviously, there are a few fixed dimensions (diameter of the speaker, length of the port) but other than these practical limitations will a short deep cabinet perform  differently to a taller but slimmer design?

     

    Interesting question, and the answer is simple. 

     

    With the MkIII specifically, the front baffle size and shape was dictated by the parts I wanted to use. I was toying at the time with using an RCF H100 horn and made sure the cab would be tall enough for it to fit. It was then just a matter of calculating the front-to-back dimension based on the total volume I wanted. And then making sure the vent would fit without coming too close to the back of the cab or needing a bend. It worked out well and resulted in a relatively slim cabinet that is easy to carry with a single handle.  

     

    There are some theoretical differences between a tall, slim cab and a squat, deep one, but the taller one scores IMO by having the tweeter further from the ground and nearer to your ears. 

  2. On 29/10/2021 at 14:56, LukeFRC said:

    I've read around this subject and the science behind it enough to know that the easiest way to a good result is finding some proven plans and following something when someone else has poured their time and expertise into! 

     

    You're not wrong, Luke.

    • Haha 1
  3. On 31/10/2021 at 08:57, carnabass said:

    So.... I was searching through my laptop last night and stumbled upon the attached

     

    YES!

     

    MK2 crossover and cab plans

     

    Crossover options of either the P audio or Celestion HF element of the cab

     

    I'm rather chuffed!

     

    Hopefully there weren't any mods to the crossovers after I saved these

     

     

    1.PNG

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    Thanks, Jon. That's very useful.

     

    The cab drawings are of the very early prototypes and were revised later. The spruce ply I used for that first prototype was quite resonant and needed a lot of bracing. Later ones were better, allowing me to remove some of the bracing. 

     

    I can't recall for sure now, but chances are that the crossover for the MkII with compression driver is the first one I did and published. The circuit I gave to Chienmortbb is likely to be a simplified version (using fewer components). Both will work.

  4. The PR300 is/was used in a number of well regarded bass cabs. Of the top of my head, I can think of the Bergantino CN 1x12 and 2x12 (which won the Essex bass cab shootout against serious competition some years ago), the Vanderkley EXT112 and the Genz-Benz Neox. 

     

    As Phil says, the main difference between the PR300 and the PR320 is the length of the voice coil, which is one of the key factors in determining the driver's excursion capability, or xmax. This point alone makes the PR320 a much better choice for bass guitar. 

     

    I've been working with much more expensive 12" drivers recently, using the PR320 as my reference point, and I have to admit that spending more money does not always buy you a better-sounding driver. I'd go so far as to say it's the best-bang-for-your-buck 12" bass guitar driver right now. 

     

     

  5. Please run that by me again, as I'm currently doing some routing work (as a complete novice) and am very attached to my fingers. Do you really need to keep tightening the router bit while you are working? It's a bit awkward with my particular router, as you lose the depth setting when you go in with a spanner.

  6. It's a while since I've been involved with pickups, but I do remember that the most common fault with those is a broken wire at the output. There are two output wires (obviously) - one is taken from the inside of the coil and the other from the outside. If the outside one is broken (it's not too difficult to check visually), it can be fixed without having to rewind the pickup: you just unwind one turn and re-solder. I've done it lots of times. Soldering those very thin wires takes a bit of practice, but it's not hard.

    If the break is at the beginning or inside of the coil, you will need a rewind. It might be worth inspecting the pickup before you send it off.

    • Like 1
  7. On 16/09/2021 at 22:21, Andy Morgan said:

    Airdrie.

    If your geography of Scotland isn't so great, it's about 15 minutes to Glasgow, 30 minutes to Edinburgh.

    Everybody knows where Airdrie is, don't they? I used to play the Airdrie Town Hall back in the day. And went to watch Airdrieonians every once in a while, even though they were rubbish.

    • Like 1
  8. 1 hour ago, Bigwan said:

    Novice at best... But I have access to my (recently deceased) father's full collection of power tools... including a table saw... What could possibly go wrong!!!

    Lots. 😃

     

    Remember, PU glue is your friend - as is fibreglass filler. I speak from experience. They both cover a multitude of bodges. Finish with Tuffcab and nobody will know.

     

    • Like 1
  9. On 07/09/2021 at 09:36, Pea Turgh said:

    So the 1x10 first set, and a new, as yet unannounced super speaker for 2nd set?

     

    @stevie- tell us more!

     

    I've been working on a few ideas during lockdown. As I design first and foremost for my own use, I've been trying to push the boundaries of what's possible while still keeping the cabinets compact and relatively affordable - and trying to make them look great. Basically, I deserve the best (!) and that's what these will be. 

     

    That's it for the moment. As I have a full-time job and a family to keep me busy, they'll be ready when they're ready. And I promise you lot will be the first to know.

     

    • Like 3
  10. 4 hours ago, Bigwan said:

    Aargh! Celestion compression driver out of stock everywhere! Bugrit...

    That's often the problem with these self-build projects. The Beyma 12" driver originally recommended for our 12" cabinet is now out of production. The horn for the BC112 MkIII is more or less only available from Blue Aran and has been out of stock for months - and now this.

    For this 10" cab, I deliberately specified components that would be readily available anywhere because it's not always possible to use alternative parts with these custom designs. I haven't checked, but I wouldn't expect Celestion to be out of stock for long. 

  11. On 07/09/2021 at 11:07, Bigwan said:

    Further to my previous FRFR question... Is there any reason one couldn't adjust the cabinet shape kick-back monitor style? Assuming the internal volume remains the same I would imagine the only downside would be with construction difficulty?

    As long as you can handle the woodworking, it sounds like a good idea to me. 

  12. I'd say so. It's certainly more frfr than many (more expensive) cabs on the market that  claim to be so - and the only one, apart from the RCF PA cabs, that proves it with a frequency response graph. Plus, it will handle a lot more bass than  frfr cabs designed for guitar.

     

    It wasn't designed specifically as an frfr cab, but my experience experimenting with bass guitar cabs over the past few years has taught me that a flat frequency response is desirable even if you're not going to use a modeller.

     

    The proof of the frfr pudding is playing music through the cab, and this one sounds convincing, with no nasties. So you can use it with guitar and a modeller or also as a keyboard cab if you want. 

     

    As soon as I finished the design, I started working on a more advanced version  and sent the parts to @Phil Starr  to build up. Phil has tested it and gigged with it and will no doubt be along shortly to give you his opinion.

     

     

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