Muppet

Don't sand it but use a fine wet and dry paper (1500) with plenty of water and that will take the gloss off it without removing all the varnish. Works perfectly.

It won't damage it unless you take it all off and allow water into the grain of the wood.

How confident are you in your own handiwork? Some fine wet and dry paper can easily take the gloss off a neck and make it more playable. I do that to nearly all my basses (apart from a Ric and and older Fender)

It's not too difficult to do, to be honest.

[quote name='john_the_bass' post='86592' date='Nov 10 2007, 07:25 PM']i'm [b]soooo[/b] jealous and excited i don't know whether to be sick or do a little wee - that is probably my definitive collection (except you maybe need a stingray!)[/quote]

Had one - it went to Homer in exchange for the Sienna burst P! I have got a little GAS for another - black with maple ideally, and 2 EQ.

Favourite? Crikey that's a tough one. I think the one I'm least likely to get rid of at any point is the DJ4, although currently I am falling in love with the Ric again.

Mine's a March 2003 model if that makes any difference.

Dave, I'm thinking about an extender for mine. what's the best way to check before i order - measure the diameter of the existing hole? If so what should it be?

Cheers

Steve

Yup, and Badass IIIs on those two also as they're string thru.

Had to get them out to take pics for the insurance and it's not often I do that so here goes

2006 Fender USA Jazz - Chrome Red


2000 Rickenbacker 4003 - Jetglo


2006 Fender USA Precision - Black


1996 Fender USA Precision - Olympic White


2006 Tanglewood Electro acoustic


1983 Fender USA Precision - Sienna Burst


2003 Lakland Skyline Darryl Jones with J retro - Pearl


1983 Vox Standard Bass - Black

I have a complete Vox Standard in black. It's incredibly heavy and quite awful to play!! I have swapped out the pickups for Fender ones and it's still bad, so next up is the electronics. Lucky you don't have any of that!

I've seen them quite a few times and he always does this. Annoys the hell out of me!

[quote name='fretmeister' post='82277' date='Nov 1 2007, 02:17 PM']My basses are both Statii - 1 fretted and 1 fretless. I play rock, blues, swing and some chordal bass stuff.[/quote]

They are actually Statuses (fourth declension noun)

I have a Eden Nemesis RC410 which is really really good - check out my review in the review section, but as G-bitch points out, it's not uber light. Depending on where you are in Northants it might only be a short drive over to me if you ever fancied trying it out, as finding one in this country to try out is near impossible. Feel free to PM if you fancy it! I've also got a Ampeg BA115HP if you wanted to try that too.

Cheers

Steve

White spirit and elbow grease will shift some of it. I've used paint thinners in the past with varying results. Stiff scrubbing brush and soap and water also gives pretty good results

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='82405' date='Nov 1 2007, 05:43 PM']Or find a 2nd hand Lakland BG, a better substitute for the real thing

Peter[/quote]


My sentiments exactly. Or a Shuker P bass...?

[quote name='thedontcarebear' post='80934' date='Oct 29 2007, 07:02 PM']The Fender ones are SKB are they not?[/quote]

I do believe you are right. SKB's finest paper cases.

[quote name='Paul Cooke' post='80864' date='Oct 29 2007, 04:47 PM']They're confusing the issue here and demeaning the real meaning of N.O.S.[/quote]


I agree- what they are saying is 'it is like New Old Stock' rather than saying 'it IS New Old Stock'........

Imagine if they found a batch of untouched '62 Jazzes in a dusty cupboard somewhere...

Is it the Tascam adaptor and if not are you running it at the right voltage with the correct terminator plug (assuming is it changeable)? Does this happen in different sockets in your home?

I don't get this problem at all, so if you can isolate the ac adaptor then it's the unit

Agreed - a tiny pilot hole with a dremel works for me, but only a tiny hole mind. The pickup screws are self tapping so the pilot will be fine. The problems I've found is that if you try too hard then all you end up doing is mashing the screw head and then it's fun....

We should try to negotiate a group discount on Hiscox cases!

The older Fender ABS cases were great. Oblong and tough, like the Musicman and Ricky cases. Then they changed to the guitar shaped cases which are of much thinner more fragile plastic and are completely rubbish. I sell mine for lots and buy a Hiscox for much cheaper and am quids in. I have had three Fender cases get splits in the plastic on flights but never have had any such problems with a Hiscox.

Guess it depends on whether you want protection or whether you need the origial logo'd hardcase.

Steve

Didn't buy anything from him but he pointed me in the direction of something that I was after and was struggling to find big time, so thumbs up to Nick.

Steve

On ebay at £50 BIN but to Basschat members £45 including postage.

This is a genuine control plate, genuine pots fully wired and the much sought after S1 switch complete with it's switching knob. Can't remember ever seeing this for sale anywhere so grab it while you can!

[quote name='obbm' post='74474' date='Oct 15 2007, 10:43 AM']Alan

Try this on the J-Retro:

Wind back the bass pot because the J-Retro has bass boost at the detent.

Wind back the treble pot to take the top off.

Wind the mid frequency all the way back, i.e. as low as possible

Boost the mid level pot to taste.

Pan the blend control towards the bridge pick-up.

I find this a good starting point and it punches through everything.

I use this with the amp almost flat and then boost the bass control a gnats if need be or tweak the blend back toward the centre.

Works for me.[/quote]

A bit similar to mine

Bass pot wound back so that marker is at 12 o clock (facing bass)
PUP blend wound back so that marker is at 12 o clock
Treble pot marker at 3 o clock
Mid frequency at 4 o clock
Mid boost at 4 o clock

Amp set flat and then I tweak the bass and mid very slightly according to venue

and whilst we're posting pics (think I should get a new pickguard actually cos of the gap...)

Si - check out this thread - Outsider just did it..

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=6578"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=6578[/url]

Steve

[quote name='Beedster' post='72576' date='Oct 11 2007, 07:51 AM']In fact, I've just found the same neck new for £119.00.[/quote]

Where'd you find that Chris? I'm looking for one but there's no way I'm paying £300 for one!

Bit of lacquering - £7, replacement decal £10, tuners £40 tops maybe.

It does look a good job though. Even got the 'made in USA' and the 'serial no' on the rear (even though there seems to be no actual number.

Steve

£350 seems a pretty good deal! It's gonna be a corker when it's done!

S

[quote name='outsider70' post='70881' date='Oct 8 2007, 01:08 AM']Thanks.

The earthing strap comes with the Fender Custom Shop pickups. Probably dont need it but I like the look!

Regarding the S1 swithch I was told that Fender wont sell them so I didnt even bother trying to get one, and just went for a push/pull pot. Which I think works better as it's easier to see what position it's in. For me anyway.

Tony[/quote]

I think it looks cool with the earth - I didn't know they came with the pickups. I thought that too about the S1 switch cos I've been scrabvling round the net for ages - I saw your post and I thought "yes! someone's found one!!" not to worry though, I think your soluiotn is probably better.

Oh and glad to have (third hand) supplied the tuners!

cheers

Steve