Grambo

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='807767' date='Apr 15 2010, 10:37 PM']The problem is each cab receives the same power due to the same impedance (not resistance), but the one with 4 speakers spreads it over all 4, whereas the other only to two. So the two will be reaching their excursion limit at half the power of the 4x10. The 4x10 will be louder due to better coupling with the air, and possibly drown out the sound of the protesting 2x10, risking a breakage. Better having a 16ohm 2x10, making a 6x10 with all speakers working the same, at 5.3 ohm, or two cabs the same.[/quote] All absolutely reasonable, of course (and I regret the mis-use of the term "resistance") but my set up works well for me, I don't notice much in the way of problems with the 2X10 when coupled with the 4X10. All I can say is that it works, is flexible, and possibly cheaper/easier than sourcing a 2X10 @ 16 Ohms (which may lead to other issues when used on it's own) In a perfect world, I guess we would all employ the best possible combination of gear based on performance alone, but life tends to impose restrictions.....

[quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='807567' date='Apr 15 2010, 08:13 PM']Does mean one of your cabs is running at half power though.[/quote] It means that more surface area moves more air - four 10" speakers will obviously have an advantage over two 10" speakers due to their surface area, though they absorb more "power", they offer less resistance to the amp. Speakers don't have "power" as such - they react to the amount of energy fed to them, which they handle according to the limitations of their electrical capability (power handling - so the coils don't melt) and the amount of physical movement they are capable of generating in the air. To put it (over) simply - the amp will generate it's output according to how much it has to work. Two 8 Ohm cabs will give it a resistance of 4 Ohms to work with, which makes it work better. I don't think it is particularly helpful to worry about which cab is absorbing more power - if one is less electrically efficient than another as a result of the particular way they are configured then so be it, that's life! We haven't even touched on wiring schemes (series/parallel etc.) - it makes my brain hurt :wacko: Who started this anyway.......

[quote name='BluRay' post='804552' date='Apr 13 2010, 08:29 AM']Just a thought, but why don't you just add a 410? You'll get very close to same result - you'd benefit from the "full" 575w, plus a really flexible set up 210, 410, 610. Easier to lug about and store. Reduced hernia risk also I have an abm and the second cab makes all the difference. In answer to the actual question - the ABM head should be absolutely fine, assuming all things compatible.[/quote] +1 I run an EVO III 500 with 1X ABM 210T which is great for practice, 1X 410T which is good for most mid sized venues, and both cabs if I want to get stupidly loud! The cabs are 8 Ohm each, so running both not only moves a great deal of air, but drives the amp at maximum output. I find the setup does everything I want

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='801459' date='Apr 10 2010, 02:30 AM']Is it normal to find that every other open string sounds in tune, then the open G sounds effing horrible? It's driving me to distraction. In fact everything on the G sounds out of tune to me until I get up towards D. Am I just fingering the notes wrong on the D or do I have a bad string or... Grr. It's so annoying. Everything sounds lush and then I play the G string and it sounds like I sexually abused someone's cat. I have a new-found respect for violinists. Honestly everything is golden except the G string in the lower positions. Is this me, the string, or normal neophyte bass student toss I just have to work through?[/quote] What sort of bass do you have? - I know that logic will tell you that a string should sound "right" if the length and tension are correct, but you could be hearing overtones generated by the bass itself. If the instrument is carved out of wood then a good repairer should be able to sort it. If it's made of ply then the whole thing becomes a bit more tricky ('cos you probably dont want to spend loadsa dosh on it - innit?) Make sure the bridge and bass bar are in the right positions to start with, and check for cracks/splits/loose bits. Mind you - you probably just have a duff string..........

[quote name='Stu-khag' post='777096' date='Mar 17 2010, 11:23 AM']Hey guys Ive finally brought my new bass home but as space is a bit of an issue and dont fancy my clumsy girlfriend putting her foot through it I need a stand for it. Can anyone reccomend one? I dont want to spend too much but then again I dont want a cheap and nasty one either so any advice is much appreciated! cheers stu[/quote] Just do what I do for both my basses: 1) Remove drawer from handy chest of drawers or similar (if this belongs to girlfriend please use caution) 2) Place drawer (once emptied) on floor. 3) Place bass onto drawer - it should sit firmly. (Of course, you do need the rightish size drawer)

[quote name='BassBod' post='801723' date='Apr 10 2010, 12:40 PM']Yes - I'll email later....[/quote] Cool

[quote name='BassBod' post='801540' date='Apr 10 2010, 09:04 AM']Sorry, Thumb gone..but it was a bit heavy anyway. Got a nice light PJ Sadowsky though...[/quote] Naaah....not really my "thing" - still got the Alembic?

[quote name='BassBod' post='800272' date='Apr 8 2010, 09:48 PM']Still plotting.......[/quote] Still interested in your Thumb.....

[quote name='BurritoBass' post='800385' date='Apr 8 2010, 11:34 PM']I'm with Stinson on the price. I own an immaculate 1978 Mocha Brown Fender P-bass that is a good weight. Musuem pieces are going for around £1500 & irrespective of what you think of EMG pickups without the originals you aren't selling an all original bass. If you can find the original pickups, remove the EMG ones and I reckon you could be looking at £1200 - but I'd find a positive spin on mentioning the weight! If it helps, mine came with original receipt, original strings (not on the bass), original case, ashtray covers etc So yours won't go top wack as it's been a real players bass by the sound of things. £800-£1100 as it is and with original pup £1200. I reckon Best of luck[/quote] Thanks for that - nice bass BTW - it only needs a maple neck and it would be mine's alter-ego!!

[quote name='merello' post='786243' date='Mar 25 2010, 08:53 PM']MIM Black Jazz with 2 wee scratches. Instead of buffing them out, should I buff them in and sand some of the rest of the slab?[/quote] Don't bother mucking about with it - just buy the real thing! [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83704"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=83704[/url]

[quote name='bh2' post='800151' date='Apr 8 2010, 08:16 PM']Bathroom scales?[/quote] Yeah! Just tried that - it's probably in the 11 - 12lb region.

Still available as I have no time to market it, so........bump!

[quote name='bh2' post='800025' date='Apr 8 2010, 05:40 PM']What does it weigh?[/quote] Don't really know - I've nothing to weigh it with, but it's f****ing heavy!

[quote name='silddx' post='799690' date='Apr 8 2010, 12:15 PM']I'd keep it and spend a couple of hundred on a decent S/H Hohner Steinberger cricket bat copy. You'll be amazed at the quality tones and build, and they are very light.[/quote] Funnily enough I already have a Hohner Jack - nice enough, and very light but it just doesn't do what I need.

Rickie?

[quote name='BassBod' post='799672' date='Apr 8 2010, 11:56 AM']I've always liked EMG's in a Pbass too - punchy and warm, but with added bite if you want it..but most people will pay a lot more for the originals.[/quote] Guess that's so - I'll have to look in the shed! (but I still prefer the EMG's...)

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='799596' date='Apr 8 2010, 10:42 AM']Had a quick trawl through Evilbay and there's a '76 up for sale at £1300 ish and a '79 for a £1000. So that's a good place to start. I do understand your pain though, I can recommend the P-bass Lyte as a good alternative. The weight difference is very noticeable, but a change of the pickups might be in order to get that 'P' punch back.[/quote] Actually, I like the sound of the EMG's - though I just might still have the originals somewhere! Anyway, thanks for the advice.

[quote name='BassBod' post='799590' date='Apr 8 2010, 10:38 AM']I'm sure someone here will have a useful comparison, but the market is not good, its not from one of Fender's "finest moments" and its got EMG's and its a heavy one...I'd retire it for a while, rather than sell, if possible. I'm assuming you're using a w-i-d-e leather strap (or comfort strap) etc to help with the weight?[/quote] Oh yes - a very wide strap! - I think the problem is more one of age more than anything (I'm into my 50's) I might retire it, but need to replace it with something, so must seriously consider selling......

Having just finished yet another gig racked with neck/shoulder pain due to my ridiculously heavy PB, I think she needs a new home Trouble is - what is she worth? The instrument was fitted with EMG's in the 80's (IIRC) and is otherwise original, but "well gigged" - little dings everywhere and the chocolate brown finish completely worn off an area on the left side of the body. She has a black scratchplate, maple neck (no bridge/pickup gaurds) and she looks great! - a bass with history. The serial number - S872933 - suggests that she was made in '77/78 and I would welcome any suggestions as to how I might establish a fair value. I know it's a long shot but someone out there may have bought/sold a similar bass recently.... Any ideas? [attachment=46736:100_2321.JPG]

[quote name='Greydad' post='758956' date='Feb 27 2010, 11:06 AM']I ripped the end of my index finger tip to bits like that in about a day just after I started playing. The good thing about it is that if you still want to keep playing you have to avoid the mega-blister (which is there to remind you you're not doing it right) so that forces you to lay your index finger alongside the string and that seems to be the way to do it - I slightly hook it from about the first knuckle joint and it seems to sound nice and you can play for a long time like that without wear and tear. Jake can jump in and correct me if that's not quite correct but it feels comfortable to me and the tone is a lot better than scrabbling with your finger tips.[/quote] I learned many years ago that playing with the index and second fingers almost parallel to the strings is the only way to prevent the dreaded blisters - it also allows you to put more energy into the string. Much can be achieved by using a rollong action at the wrist - most players use this style for a reason!

[quote name='Greydad' post='758956' date='Feb 27 2010, 11:06 AM'][thread hijack] Mid-somerset, near Burnham Where's youz? [/thread hijack][/quote] Oh, that's ok - I'm near Yeovil - so we won't be competing!

[quote name='Greydad' post='758597' date='Feb 26 2010, 08:30 PM']but I enjoyed it immensely, had a lot of comments about it afterwards and two more offers to play with other people - they must all be deaf too [/quote] Bl****y Hell Greydad - competition! I hope you are North Somerset! It's bad enough already without having some young upstart nicking all my gigs...... I shall have to put my [i]other[/i] bass up for sale as well.....

"I don't think I can blame the setup, it's quite low (I can wedge my fingertips between string and fingerboard at the bridge end)." I should hope so! I don't know how fat your fingers are but, in my experience, coming from Bass guitar you really need the action as low as possible to start with. This will help to avoid straining your muscles while developing a technique. As your body begins to get used to "doing" DB you will find it easier to approach the instrument and will find out what sort of set-up suits your style and the sound you want. Above all - don't be dis-heartened - it's a real slog to make the change, but always worth the effort!

[quote name='doghouse' post='753063' date='Feb 21 2010, 06:14 PM']thanks for all the info, im now sorted, i went down to see mark at bass direct, settled with a Euphonic Audio doubler and a AE 1 Bergantino 1x12 cab. Tried out lots of cabs and this one just seemed right in weight and sound, onto the subject of feedback i took this rig to full power with the help of the notch filter it suffered no feedback at all, im looking forward to playing 1st gig with it next sat, big thankyou to mark for all his help.[/quote] You just have a good gig - enjoy!

[quote name='kets' post='745223' date='Feb 14 2010, 08:17 PM']If you give me a day or two, I could take a few photos of the inside of the cavity on mine or make a note of how it's wired. The EMG select pickups are standard and don't need power. Only the tone controls are active (If you have it in active mode). If you run it in passive mode it doesn't need a battery in it, which is the way I use mine all the time![/quote] Thanks for the input! My bass is now completely different to standard as I have disconnected all the active components, and wired each pup via its own volume pot direct to the jack socket. I don't understand why I can't reduce the volume using said pots - there must be some sort of impedance issue, I just can't find out what....