ikay

Have you tried DR Sunbeams? Round core gives them a softer feel, nice and responsive to touch, a good combination of warmth and brightness. Well I like them anyway! Got them on my 72 jazz.

[quote name='woodyratm' post='963626' date='Sep 21 2010, 06:30 PM']Got one but it doesnt seem to fit :/
The washery hexy bit that came with is too big[/quote]

That's very wierd as it fits my JO perfectly which I thought had the same Hipshot lic ultralites as the DJ. Can you provide pics of the offending bits and pieces?

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='961325' date='Sep 19 2010, 05:10 PM']Do you have a spare pot you could temporarily swap the offending one with to check it's ok?[/quote]

To check the bridge pot, swap the 'hot' wires from the pups over. The 'bridge' vol will now control the neck pup and vice versa. If you still have the same problem but this time with the neck pup then the pot is faulty.

Could just be some dirt in there so, if you have some aerosol contact cleaner to hand, just give the offending pot a quick squirt (into the small gap near the terminals on the pot) first.

[quote name='urb' post='961092' date='Sep 19 2010, 12:26 PM']+1 to all of that - my fretless has a thick slab of ebony for the fingerboard - and that plus round wounds and soloed bridge pup and you get this sort of tone:



M[/quote]

Urb, that playing is just beautiful, what's the bass?

[quote name='essexbasscat' post='961016' date='Sep 19 2010, 11:13 AM']Ok. Always been curious about this one, but usually get distracted into other things, until now. The Kate Bush thread featured some of 'those' bass sounds, which I've posted again here as examples, along with a few others.

It doesn't sound too boomy in the bottom end, perhaps a bit more in the low mids on the bass itself ? (for an active that is. On a passive bass, perhaps more on the bridge pickup ?)

THe bass just peeks through on the Annie Lennox one, but the tone is Sooo nice

Anyone have any ideas about reproducing these 'classic' sounds please ? is there some double tracking / chorus going on around here ? Reverb ?

Ta

T[/quote]

John Giblin played bass on Babooshka and the Annie Lennox one. Some more info about the basses and techniques he uses can be found here [url="http://bashkov2.narod.ru/giblin.htm"]http://bashkov2.narod.ru/giblin.htm[/url] (about half way down).

Jaco's fretless tone is obtained with roundwound strings, using the bridge pickup exclusively and plucking the strings right above it. I'm sure a huge amount of the tone comes from his fingers as well.

I'm a zillion light years (perhaps further) from being a Jaco but find I can get something close on my jazz by using the bridge pup and backing off the tone a bit to soften the top end a tad and thicken up the fundamental. I find it difficult to get a solid tone when plucking down near the bridge so I guess this helps to compensate for weak fingers and lousy technique!

[quote name='martindupras' post='957855' date='Sep 15 2010, 11:34 PM']I want to adjust the truss rod on my Jazz Bass. It's the kind that's adjusted with (I think) a 3/16" Allen key, at the body end of the neck.

I've adjusted truss rods at the headstock all my life but funnily enough never one on that side.

I would have thought it was straightforward, but I'm struggling a bit.

What do people usually do? Remove the pickguard? Do it with the pickguard on but with a short Allen Key? I have tens of Allen Keys around but none where the short leg is short enough to go in the hole in the pickguard, and anything longer doesn't get in the hole.

And I've been around shops today and it's getting difficult to get imperial measurement Allen keys.

Any advice?

- martin[/quote]

You need one of these - [url="http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Fender-316-TShaped-Truss-Rod-Tool?sku=360804"]http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/pro...Tool?sku=360804[/url]

It's got a hex ball-end and goes in at a shallow angle so you can adjust without removing the pickguard.

[quote name='fatback' post='957463' date='Sep 15 2010, 05:45 PM']Says it, really.

Got a singer who likes G, so i need to get me a low D...

And drop tuning gives me nightmares.[/quote]

Ibanez and Cort make fretless fivers priced around £500. Not tried them myself

[quote name='cameltoe' post='954790' date='Sep 13 2010, 02:22 PM']I've got a feeling from vague bits and pieces I read online that 'Vintage' tuners are slightly bigger than modern. I've got a CV Squier, (currently being set up.....taking ages!) that I'll try the hipshot's on and see how good a fit they are on there.

I've just ordered some Gotoh gbr640, which although aren't quite as light as the hipshots(not far off), should (by looking at their measurements) be indentical to the standard ones in my Road Worn.

The hipshot ultralites were/are used on the most recent Fender Deluxe basses, so I think they must fit properly in modern series basses. There's too much play in my bass though, the sleeves are not tight in the headstock hole, they'll never stay in tune.

Both sets were around $100 with $17 shipping. About £80 all in.[/quote]

cameltoe, I've installed 1/2" Hipshot ultralites in my Squier VMJ fretless and although the holes are slightly too large it's an easy fix. Just cut out a strip of business card (enough to wrap once around the sleeve) and that will pad it out enough to be a snug fit. Worked fine for me. Ian

[quote name='woodyratm' post='951300' date='Sep 9 2010, 11:42 PM']Hey guys,
I recently bought a bt1 (hipshot extender) - thought it said it would fit lakkys but its too big. Anyone know how big the tuning pegs hole is?

Probs just sell the bt1 or add it to my ray.[/quote]

Doesn't the DJ4 have Hipshot ultralite tuners? In which case you need the HE6C 1/2" clover leaf xtender. I have one of these on my Lakland JO4, it fitted with no problem and works great.

[quote name='dead' post='950197' date='Sep 9 2010, 08:00 AM']would you trade with my rebop 5 ?

[url="http://img190.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=rebop1.jpg"]http://img190.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=rebop1.jpg[/url][/quote]

Sorry should have mentioned that I'm not looking for a trade, sale only

[quote name='brick' post='949673' date='Sep 8 2010, 05:47 PM']I actually drooled out the side of my mouth when i saw the pics of this bass, i really wish i could shift the stuff ive got on here so i could take it off your hands[/quote]

Hehe, it's even better in the flesh, put on a bib and get a loan

[quote name='Veils' post='949557' date='Sep 8 2010, 04:10 PM']Always had a soft spot for a teal stingray! That's a wicked price too man![/quote]

Thanks, and agree about the price

I have a beautiful SR5 in trans-teal/maple for sale.

It's been my main bass for the last ten years. Has been well used in that time but also very well cared for (I'm a bit anal in that respect) and it's in all round excellent condition. No issues whatsoever, sounds great and is a joy to play. Reason for sale is that I've recently acquired a rather special '92 SR5 which has taken over as my main bass so this one is now in need of a new home.

Here are some vital statistics:

[b]Year[/b] - 2000, bought new from the Bass Centre in Wapping (what a great place that was) and have receipt

[b]Weight[/b] - 10lbs dead (actual weight using digital fishing scales)

[b]Action[/b] - What I call medium/low, very light relief (about .012" measured at 8th fret), string height measured at 12th fret 5/64 (G) to 6/64 (B ). Strung with 45/65/80/100/130 gauge Picato nickels.

[b]Electrics[/b] - 3-band EQ, full working order no issues

[b]Condition[/b] - Excellent, aside from a few light scratches on the fingerplate I can't find a mark on her so 9.9/10

[b]Case[/b] - OHSC included

[b]Price - £675 plus shipping which I think is very fair for a bass of this quality and condition. [/b]

Location - Rudgwick in West Sussex (on A281 between Guildford and Horsham). If you're in the area you're very welcome to come and try her out.

The unusual bit is that I also have a spare SR5 neck in rosewood which I can offer as an option. THIS IS EXTREMELY RARE!!!

The bass originally had a rosewood neck which I changed to maple last December. I was just getting a bit bored with RW after 9 years and fancied giving maple a try. Have to say I like the maple, it sounds a little more 'open' to me whereas the RW sounded a little 'compressed'.

The maple neck was purchased new (NOS) from Strings & Things in Shoreham (UK EBMM distributor which is near where I live) who happened to have one in stock left over from the days when they used to swap necks around to meet customer orders. I have the receipt. EBMM stopped this practice a few years ago and now demand the original neck to be returned if a replacement is needed.

The original rosewood neck has been very carefully stored and is in great condition. [b]I'll include it in the sale for an additional £100 (£175 if I sell it separately).[/b]

Any questions or if you'd like any specific pics please PM

[attachment=58390:P1030516.jpg][attachment=58382:P1030504.jpg][attachment=58383:P1030505.jpg]
[attachment=58384:P1030512.jpg][attachment=58385:P1030508.jpg][attachment=58386:P1030509.jpg]
[attachment=58387:P1030506.jpg][attachment=58388:P1030511.jpg][attachment=58389:P1030507.jpg]
[attachment=58391:P1030522.jpg][attachment=58392:P1030527.jpg][attachment=58393:P1020821.jpg]
[attachment=58394:P1020822.jpg][attachment=58395:P1020824.jpg][attachment=58396:P1020832.jpg]
[attachment=58397:P1020835.jpg]

[quote name='willyf87' post='947566' date='Sep 6 2010, 07:45 PM']I noticed jim Dunlop make a fret cleaning pad, doesn't say much about what you can and can't do with it, anyone used this product?? Any other products out there?? I heard wire wool can be a bit harsh.[/quote]

I use the Planet Waves Fret Ploishing System which works very well:

[url="http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/products/1339-planet_waves_pw_frp_fret_polishing_system"]http://www.stringsdirect.co.uk/products/13...olishing_system[/url]

The template is a bit flimsy but its easy to make a more hard wearing one using a bit of thin clear plastic packaging material or something similar.

Avoid using wire wool as the loose bits make a beeline for your pups/cavities and are a devil to remove

Hmm, I think your best bet is to buy one of these and forget all that two pickup nonsense...!
[attachment=58232:P1000557.jpg]

[quote name='Ou7shined' post='946831' date='Sep 6 2010, 01:05 AM']There doesn't seem to be a standard as to which is the black and which is the white. Basically you did it right, swap them about until it sounds right.[/quote]


Good advice - white is generally hot with black going to ground but unfortunately not always!

[quote name='Gunsfreddy2003' post='946442' date='Sep 5 2010, 05:57 PM']Going through a bit of a dilemma as to whether to change the pick ups in my 74 jazz bass or not. I have been given some advice that the stock p/ups were never that special and that by changing them for more modern ones will really let the bass sing.

Any opinions or advice would be gratefully received particularly by those that have gone down this route already. If you have changed them what did you go for and why?


Does changing the pickups de-value the bass at all?

Cheers[/quote]

I have a 72 Jazz that came with one original and one later 70s pup. They sounded ok but a little lifeless. I swapped them out for a set of Fender Custom Shop 60s which have brought it to life and still keep the vintage Fender vibe. Reason I went for these was that I didn't want to change the essential character of the bass, I just wanted to revitalise it which is exactly what the CS60s have done. Don't know if that helps or not!

[quote name='willyf87' post='942167' date='Sep 1 2010, 02:43 PM']Do I go about this the normal way I would on a fretted (playing the harmonic etc) or is there a better way?[/quote]

Harmonics is the only way I know but there are some subtleties to setting up a fretless. This page from the Gary Willis setup manual may be useful:

[url="http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassmanual/intonation4.html"]http://www.garywillis.com/pages/bass/bassm...ntonation4.html[/url]

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937413' date='Aug 26 2010, 07:05 PM']Thanks for the link. Ill have a proper read of it later but i must admit im confused.
I read quite a few threads on Talkbass where everyone agreed a audio taper is standard for a jazz bass tone control.
Im in no position to argue with anyone but i think i need to look in to this a bit more first. It does seem like you can use either.

This thread sounds quite interesting as well.

[url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671456&highlight=pot+shootout"]Tone pot shoot out.[/url][/quote]

Interesting link and I agree it is confusing. This extract from [color="#0000FF"]http://www.guitarelectronics.com/category/wiring_resources_guitar_wiring_diagrams.wiring_faqs/[/color] says that Fender use audio post for both vol and tone while Gibson use linear for both. If the tech gurus at Fender and Gibson can't agree what chance do we mere mortals have?!

[u]What is the difference between Audio and Linear taper pots? [/u]
Audio and Linear taper pots have the same total resistance but differ in which position of rotation the pot will reach the 50% value. Linear pots are usually marked with a B or Lin (examples 250KB, B250K, 250K Lin) and will reach 50% of its total resistance in the 50% rotation point. Audio taper pots are usually marked with an A or Aud (examples 500KA, A500K 500K Aud) and will decrease most of the resistance in the last 50% of the rotation. This can give a more gradual audio reduction is some cases. [b][color="#FF0000"]Some manufactures like Fender use Audio taper pots for both volume and tone controls. Gibson on the other hand uses linear taper pots for both volume and tone.[/color] [/b]And still others use Linar taper pots for volume and Audio taper pots for tone. However, if a problem of exists where a volume or tone pot has no effect on the sound, try a changing the taper. How to check the taper with an ohm meter: Set the pot to the center position (50% rotation) and measure the resistance between the center pin and each of the outer pins. If the the resistance is equal (50% of the pots value) the pot is linear. If the values are not equal, the pot is an Audio taper.

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937346' date='Aug 26 2010, 05:24 PM']Cheers guys.

I will definitely give the bass a go first. I get it tomorrow and have gigs tomorrow and sat so i have no choice.

Ive not actually heard one yet, my old HW1 didnt have this but i did like the way it goes when the tone is all the way off. Saying that, i hardly use the tone knob anyway so maybe it wont be a problem.

As i said, ive never had ot do anything like this before so can you check this is the right cap. They also have the ceramic one.
[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Sprague_%27Orange_Drop%27_0.047_Capacitor_.047CAP-OD"]Orange Drop[/url]

Also, it might be easier if i replaced the tone pot. That way its less messy.
Anyone know if this is ok?
[url="http://www.wdmusic.co.uk/product/Premium_250k_Solid_Shaft_Pot_10%25_Tolerance_CTS250SS"]CTS pot[/url]

Thanks again for any help.[/quote]

Orange drop is fine as is CTS 250k pot but the one in your link is 'audio taper' whereas 'linear taper' is more normal for tone (audo taper for vol). I'm not sure that it makes that much difference but some more info on audio/linear tapers here - [url="http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/"]http://music-electronics-forum.com/t1049/[/url]

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='937090' date='Aug 26 2010, 01:09 PM']My HW-one is due tomorrow and while i know the tone will work for me i would prefer to have a normal tone where the low end does increase a bit.

While i know im more than capable of doing the mod, im not sure what needs to be done, other than the caps need to go and be replaced with a single one.

So, if anyone can guide me to exactly what i need to buy (never brought a cap before) and how to re arrange the wiring that would be great.

If its worth me just buying a new tone pot please can you point me to the exact one i need.


This is all new to me. Ive changed pups before but its always been a like for like swap so never needed thinking about.

Cheers.[/quote]

Fender circuit diagrams and parts lists can be found here - [url="http://www.fender.com/support/wiring_diagrams_parts_lists.php"]http://www.fender.com/support/wiring_diagr...parts_lists.php[/url]. Just scroll down until you hit the HW1.

As far as I can see the greasebucket circuit just adds a metal film resistor in series with the cap. The cap is in the usual position so if it's 0.047mf then it should be as easy as removing the resistor. Otherwise remove the cap/resister completely and just replace with a 0.047mf cap.

There's a thread on TalkBass about this exact issue here - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655666"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=655666[/url]

Some conflicting views but the gist of it is that the coated strings can cause hum if they don't make good metal to metal contact at the bridge. The counter view to this (which I agree with) is that a properly earthed bass shouldn't rely on the strings to complete an earth loop (with the player's hands). The bass should be earthed via the input jack to the shield/earth of the instrument cable. Providing the bridge and pots etc are all properly 'earthed' to the input jack there should be no hum regardless whether the strings are coated or in good contact with the bridge or not. If poor string contact with the bridge (eg coated strings) results in hum then the bass isn't properly earthed and this just highlights an underlying earthing problem.


[quote name='Fat Rich' post='933976' date='Aug 23 2010, 06:09 PM']This is interesting, I put my first set of coated strings (Elixirs) on a couple of days ago and immediately had earthing problems. If I touch the bridge of the bass it sorts the problem, not much good really when you're trying to play something.

I'm having this problem through my practice amp, my rig and my Loopstation, the strings were on a bass I've owned since '93 so I whipped them off and put them on two other basses - same problem.

So I did a search on Basschat and on Google but couldn't find anyone with this problem anywhere, until this thread popped up! I'm very puzzled as so many people recommend Elixirs but I can't use them with a fairly loud and constant earthing crackle, which is a shame as they sound and feel really nice.

I've emailed the manufacturers of Elixirs but haven't heard back from them yet, will let you know what they suggest and if it works.[/quote]

Definitely sounds like an earthing problem. If the earthing wires to the bridge look intact then change your lead and see if that makes a difference

[quote name='DaveB' post='933463' date='Aug 23 2010, 11:14 AM']Yes thats right, they are now coated DR strings on the bass. The bass has been tried through a few amps and does the same thing.[/quote]

fluffo, with the shallow cutaway on the treble side (where the small scratchplate is) this looks like one of the earlier and more desirable first series TRB5s, not a TRBII. Probably a moot point as the pups and electrics have been changed but the early TRBs usually play better than the later ones in my experience. Good luck with the sale, Ian

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='928142' date='Aug 17 2010, 10:49 PM']Ian. I also feel that if the pickguard fits then maybe it's not the neck pup but the bridge pup that's out. Especially now ice seen how off it can be. When I get back I'm going to try and figure out exactly which one is out.[/quote]

Hmm, if the bridge pup needs to be nudged left rather than the neck pup being nudged right that suggests that bridge is also a bit off. If you run a straight edge from either side of the neck towards the bridge that should show up where the misalignment is. Be very interested to know what you find...

[attachment=56969:Fender_Jazz.jpg]