ikay

Is this still available?

[quote name='bubinga5' post='808371' date='Apr 16 2010, 01:30 PM']Hi people...im maybe looking to wire my pickups on my jazz bass into series, as im looking for a bit more lowend...has anyone done this..if so could they give explain what i need to do...for a dummy..

what will i lose in tonal options by doing this?

thanks[/quote]

Just noticed a Fender S1 series/parallel push switch and wiring diagram on ebay here

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-S1-SWITCHING-COMPLETE-ASSEMBLY-FOR-JAZZ-BASS_W0QQitemZ350341640101QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Guitar_Accessories?hash=item5191fd2fa5"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FENDER-S1-SWITCHING-...=item5191fd2fa5[/url]

[quote name='Mike' post='808713' date='Apr 16 2010, 05:59 PM']I sold a Moon here recently. Loved it - absolutely amazing bass. Just no point having one with a Sadowsky 4 too![/quote]

I'm the lucky new owner of Mike's JJ4. Great bass, superb build quality, lightweight and resonant, loads of punch and a real joy to play.
[attachment=47560:Moon2.jpg]

Wiring diagram for adding a series/parallel switch here - [url="http://www.guitar-mod.com/wiring/j_series.gif"]http://www.guitar-mod.com/wiring/j_series.gif[/url]

Thread from TalkBass about the J series mod here - [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-262.html"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-262.html[/url]

When in series both pickups are 'in circuit' and on one vol control so you lose the tonal nuances of adjusting bridge/neck pickup balance

Gives a much beefier sound and more output but a bit one dimensional if just hardwired in series. Adding a series/parallel switch gives you all the options

[quote name='Jigster' post='808471' date='Apr 16 2010, 02:48 PM']...not a Stingray, already got a 4 and the jury is forever out on it. I like em, but...

so what else? never tried either sanberg or lakland, but have a hunch they're akin to the compressed Ray sound?[/quote]

Yamaha TRB5 gets my vote. Has a naturally more open and rounder sound than the SR5 but you can dial in some bite when you need it with the two pups and 3 band eq. Great bass (as is the SR5)

[quote name='obbm' post='805551' date='Apr 13 2010, 11:42 PM']My SR5 is 17mm at the bridge, 8.5mm at the nut[/quote]

Just measured mine using some digital calipers (how anal is that) and string centre [B] to centre [G] at bridge is 70mm which is 17.5mm spacing. Same measurement at nut is 38mm which is 9.5mm spacing.

Specs of the TRB4 can be found here:

[url="http://www.yamaha.com/yamahavgn/CDA/ContentDetail/ModelSeriesDetail.html?CNTID=215&CTID=5068000"]http://www.yamaha.com/yamahavgn/CDA/Conten...mp;CTID=5068000[/url]

The original series TRBs are superb basses (I have an early TRB5) and generally considered to be better than the later TRB II series. I had the choice of both when I bought mine and played them back to back - the original had much better tone and just felt more responsive and 'organic'. The II is still a very good bass but look for an early one if you can.

The main things you need to watch out for are significant swings in temperature and humidity. This goes for whether it's being stored for a few months or just out on a stand in a room somewhere.

Some basic things to avoid are leaving it anywhere near a radiator, in an attic or in a garage as all these areas have massive swings in temp and hum. I have several basses and keep them in their cases when not being played but they all get a regular airing and check over. I have the radiator in the room where I keep my basses turned down low (or off) to avoid sudden blasts of central heating.

If you're not going to play it for a few months then detune by a semitone or so (but not too much). Unless it's in a temp/hum controlled environment the ambient temperature will inevitably vary a little from day to night and when the temp drops the strings will contract and put more stress on the neck - detuning a small amount just provides some leeway for this to happen.

[quote name='BassBod' post='802722' date='Apr 11 2010, 04:11 PM']Sorry if my wording wasn't clear - I don't put wax on the fretboard! I only use the Birchwood "gunstock" wax on the back as a final sealer (but only a tiny amount, wiped clean again in a few mins). Good point about the Warwick finisher/wax - unlike many others that doea a good job on the back of the neck without leaving any stickiness and also doesn't have any of the health warnings you see on the Birchwood products[/quote]

Sorry BassBod, I misread your post, it's happening more often the older I get

[quote name='captain black' post='799978' date='Apr 8 2010, 04:49 PM']Looks like one of the older Highway 1's to me.
Year's probably about right for it.[/quote]

Duh, I'd forgotten that Highways were made in the US. I'm easily confused, please ignore this thread

How many things can you spot wrong with this ...? (apart from everything)

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Jazz-Bass-USA-American-Standard-2004-original_W0QQitemZ300414631359QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Musical_Instruments_Guitars_CV?hash=item45f21b7dbf"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Fender-Jazz-Bass-USA...=item45f21b7dbf[/url]

er as pointed out below it's a Highway model with skunk stripe and no through body stringing etc, sorry about that ...

[quote name='Grambo' post='799565' date='Apr 8 2010, 10:16 AM']Having just finished yet another gig racked with neck/shoulder pain due to my ridiculously heavy PB, I think she needs a new home
Trouble is - what is she worth? The instrument was fitted with EMG's in the 80's (IIRC) and is otherwise original, but "well gigged" - little dings everywhere
and the chocolate brown finish completely worn off an area on the left side of the body. She has a black scratchplate, maple neck (no bridge/pickup gaurds) and she looks great! - a bass with history.

The serial number - S872933 - suggests that she was made in '77/78 and I would welcome any suggestions as to how I might establish a fair value. I know it's a long shot but someone out there may have bought/sold a similar bass recently....

Any ideas?
[attachment=46736:100_2321.JPG][/quote]

You can enter details of your bass on this website - [url="http://www.may-studio-music-lessons.com/vintage-guitar-values.html"]http://www.may-studio-music-lessons.com/vi...tar-values.html[/url] - to get the value. Haven't tried it myself but may be worth a go!

[quote name='BassBod' post='798198' date='Apr 6 2010, 11:36 PM']I think its best to only use "lemon oil" on the fretboard - lemon oil (or tung/danish) on the back, followed by the gunstock wax (small amount) as a sealer. I cleaned one up recently, it works well but is hard work if the fingerboard has got very dirty. I like oiled necks, but I would think about a thin satin nitro coat on the fingerboard - they get dirty very easily.[/quote]

I contacted Ernie Ball about cleaning a maple neck last year and they were very clear that wax should NEVER be applied to the fretboard. Their reply (from John Quinn - [email protected]) said this:

"For a Maple Fretboard use high grade lemon oil to clean and only Tru oil to seal (DO NOT USE WAX). Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes do a very good job maintaining the Fretboard."

Gun oil (eg. Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil) is used to seal the fretboard. The back of the neck can be cleaned and sealed in exactly the same way but is then followed by rubbing in a very small amount of gunstock wax to finish it.

Nick,

Musicman guidance on cleaning and maintaining necks can be found here:

[url="http://www.music-man.com/faq/music-man-basses/how-do-i-maintain-the-neck-on-my-new-music-man-bass.html"]http://www.music-man.com/faq/music-man-bas...c-man-bass.html[/url]

Clean with lemon oil (both maple and rosewood) and then finish with gun oil (you can buy the recommended Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil on ebay). Don't apply gun oil to a dirty neck or it will seal the dirt in. If the lemon oil won't shift it then use very fine sandpaper and then finish with gun oil. This all works by the way, I've done it with mine!

Ian

[quote name='Old Horse Murphy' post='797788' date='Apr 6 2010, 05:18 PM']This has probably been asked a million times but I can't find anything by serching the forum.

What's the best thing to clean a dirty maple Musicman Stingray neck? I've read wonderful things about Murphy's Oil Soap but can't find anywhere to buy it in the UK (and I should know!)

Any help would be much appreciated[/quote]

Clarky, if you're after an early P and don't mind a refin might be worth getting in touch with sixshooter to see if his lovely 59 P is still available. I think it might be - [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=68691&hl=59+precision"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=...hl=59+precision[/url]


[quote name='Clarky' post='796131' date='Apr 4 2010, 11:50 PM']This guy has a good reputation on eBay (bambibau) and one BC'er has mentioned him positively (albeit I got a very rude reply when I put in a cheeky bid for one of his other basses!) He admits this is a re-fin but states that all else is original. But the neck looks strange to me (the date stamp says '63 but the dots don't look dark enough to be clay, more like white plastic; the headstock which he admits is "thin" hasn't aged much, especially around the decal). Maybe it is legit? Its certainly a beautiful thing.

What do the BassChat Fender 'tecs think?

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1963-Fender-Precision-Bass-Sunburst-OHSC-Rare-Ash_W0QQitemZ250604900710QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBassi?hash=item3a59375166"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1963-Fender-Precisio...=item3a59375166[/url][/quote]

As The Bass Doc says, the decal is the simple spaghetti logo which was used from 1951 to 1961 when a couple of patent numbers were added so this suggests a neck refin with a replacement vintage decal at some point. The pics of the headstock also show what look like water stain marks seeping into the finish by the G tuner (back of headstock) and all of the tuning posts (front of headstock) which suggests it's been stored in a pretty damp environment at some time. That's borne out by the corrosion on the tuner collets and aslo a very corroded input jack. That's my tuppence


[quote name='Clarky' post='796131' date='Apr 4 2010, 11:50 PM']This guy has a good reputation on eBay (bambibau) and one BC'er has mentioned him positively (albeit I got a very rude reply when I put in a cheeky bid for one of his other basses!) He admits this is a re-fin but states that all else is original. But the neck looks strange to me (the date stamp says '63 but the dots don't look dark enough to be clay, more like white plastic; the headstock which he admits is "thin" hasn't aged much, especially around the decal). Maybe it is legit? Its certainly a beautiful thing.

What do the BassChat Fender 'tecs think?

[url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1963-Fender-Precision-Bass-Sunburst-OHSC-Rare-Ash_W0QQitemZ250604900710QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBassi?hash=item3a59375166"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1963-Fender-Precisio...=item3a59375166[/url][/quote]

If you post a pic showing how you've wired it that would help

Hmm, seems that my comments on lighter gauge strings above are completely wrong - so much for my ears

This article [url="http://www.tyquinn.com/2009/string-gauge/"]http://www.tyquinn.com/2009/string-gauge/[/url] explains it pretty well. It refers to six string guitars but the physics are the same


[quote name='Vibrating G String' post='791453' date='Mar 31 2010, 02:54 AM']Heavier tighter strings have more harmonic content is generally accepted. This would mean thinner softer strings have more fundamental but I find this obvious conclusion meets resistance since it would mean thicker strings have less fundamental. But the math is pretty simple

I like thinner strings and find they have plenty of bottom. I do find they are less forgiving of playing them to hard whereas a thick string will let you bash away. My current fave set is DR Sunbeams 40-120 so if you put them on your G&L I would like it. [/quote]

My experience of 40-125 gauge (I've not gone down to a 120 on the is that they ring longer and with more harmonic content. Perhaps somewhat less 'weight' in the bottom end but depends how you play. Good for slapping, although I don't (mainly because I can't) and generally easier to play as less resistance and softer on your fingers. I've found that lighter gauge suits some basses more than others. I used to use 40s on all my basses but over the past year have moved up to 45s just to get a little more old school 'solidity'. It's just a phase I'm going through! Still use 40s (DR Sunbeams) on my 72 Jazz which really sings. Worth experimenting, good luck


[quote name='TGEvans' post='787134' date='Mar 26 2010, 04:17 PM']Looking to try out some new strings on my L2500. Thinking about a 40.60.80.100.120 set! At the moment im using 45.65.85.105.125. How much difference can the extra.5 make? Less bottom end? Any tips before I order some strings would be good, thanks. T.[/quote]

Hi Clarky,

I use a Zoom H4 for exactly that. Just plonk it on a strategically positioned chair in the middle of the rehearsal room, press the button and go. The internal condenser mics do a good enough job for what I need which is just to get a rough but listenable take of each track to learn arrangements and changes etc. Re your stated requirements:

- idiot-proof for downloading onto PC and sending on to band mates via email
>> The H4 records directly into MP3 format and connecting to PC is dead easy. Plug in the provided USB cable, select 'connect to PC' from menu and you can just copy the MP3s to your hard disc. I then load the MP3s to a file sharing website but you can just as easily email them (around 4MB a song).

- able to deal with very loud rehearsals!
>> I've never had a problem, you just need to set your recording levels up once and make sure the mic sensitivity switch (lo/med/hi) is set appropriately.

- good on-the-spot playback capabilities (thus needs in-built speaker) to check the recording is of an acceptable standard
>> It doesn't have built in speakers but it's no hassle to connect it to a desk via the line out or headphone jack for playback. You'll need an appropriate cable with a stereo mini jack at the H4 end.

- oh and not too hefty cost-wise too (say £200-ish)
>> Mine was around £200 new. As it happens there's one on ebay closing in 22 hours, current bid £107 - [url="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zoom-H4_W0QQitemZ120544631172QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Recorders_Rewriters?hash=item1c11051984"]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Zoom-H4_W0QQitemZ120...=item1c11051984[/url]

The buttons and menu system are a bit fiddly but there are only about half a dozen things you ever need to do and easy once you've got the hang of it

Anyway, good luck with whatever you end up with!

Ian

Just purchased a new style Fender SKB case from Andy. Genuine article and very reasonably priced. Very pleasant chap to deal with. Thanks again Andy

James, don't have the bits your after for trade but I might be interested in buying the Sadowsky preamp and controls if you decide to sell rather than trade. Depending on how much you want for it! Does it have the VTC? Ian

Rumple,

I have a Skyline JO and recently fitted an Audere JZ3 preamp (great combintion btw). The JZ3 comes complete with control plate and dropped into the JO with no problem. screw holes in same place etc. The Audere is designed to fit a Fender Jazz so as far as I can see the control plate on the JO is the same as a Fender. Hope that helps.

Ian

[quote name='AndyMartin' post='780692' date='Mar 20 2010, 12:27 PM']This is the standard Fender issue case that comes with all USA Standard basses. I always use a gigbag so this is just taking up space. It's been shoved under a bed so some slight scuffing on the top but otherwise unused condition. Bargain at £30. Collection only I'm afraid.[/quote]


PM'd

Just purchased a set of Villex pickups from Tom. Very nice chap to deal with. Pups exactly as described, well packed and shipped quickly. All in all a pleasure to do business with, thanks Tom.