ikay

Can you please provide a pic showing the back of the bass (body and neck). Thanks

Dave,

Interesting thread and thought it worth mentioning that I've also experienced the neck pup misalignment problem with the new American Standard Js. I bought a black/maple one last year which had this problem. Eventually returned the bass for a refund as once I'd noticed it it just kept bugging me. Subesequently spent several months trying to find a properly aligned one but most of the new models I saw were 'out'. Tried several at GAK in Brighton earlier this year and all of the ones they had in stock were quite noticeably misaligned. I pointed this out to the store manager who was surprised but had to agree that it looked like a Fender QC problem. The neck PUP just seems to be installed incorrectly but the thing I find strange is that the pickguard still fits perfectly which surely it wouldn't do if the routing was out. All a bit odd but it's definitely not right. I've checked out quite a few older Js which were all fine so this problem definitely seems to have been introduced with the new MIA model. I'm still keeping an eye out for a new Fender J but haven't yet found a good one in the colour/neck combination I want (which happens to be black/maple). With all the hoohah about how great the new MIA Fenders are I'm really surprised more hasn't been said about these obvious QC issues.

Ian

Had this little beauty shipped over from the US. Pure vintage BB tone and build quality. Designed to withstand earthquakes. And make them happen for that matter. Whatever acoustic resonance enhancement trickery they apply to the new 2024 I reckon this one's acquired naturally. Great depth of tone and very responsive to touch. Still interested in trying the 2024 for comparison though. If Yamaha say it's that good it probably is.

[attachment=55932:BB2000_1.jpg]


[quote name='martin8708' post='917215' date='Aug 6 2010, 05:44 PM']Hi Sean , I have ordered a BB1024X from Thomann, they have told me they will be shipped from Japan end of Sept . Are you happy with the 2024 and do they justify the price tag for essentially a Japanese guitar?
Thanks for your time. Martin.[/quote]

Just measure the diameter of the tuning post. It should measure either 1/2" (13mm) or 3/8" (10mm). These are the two standard sizes of machine heads. Pretty sure it's 1/2" like my old BB2000. Then just select a Hipshot Xtender model with the right size post and matching mounting. If in doubt email Hipshot and ask them which one will fit.

[quote name='CraigPlaysBass' post='916875' date='Aug 6 2010, 12:05 PM']Bit of a noob question, but I can't find the relevant information on the internet and... I... Uh... Don't really know an accurate way to measure it...

I'm planning on fitting a hipshot bass extender so need to know the correct size

If anyone knows or can tell me how to measure it properly please let me know




Craig[/quote]

[quote name='Count Bassy' post='914911' date='Aug 4 2010, 01:38 PM']Any have any specific thoughts on putting a 'Neck wound' pickup in the bridge position?[/quote]

This post might be worth a read [url="http://www.talkbass.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-519134.html"]http://www.talkbass.com/forum/archive/inde...p/t-519134.html[/url]

It's about putting a Jazz neck pup in the bridge position on a PJ but the point about bridge pups being wound slightly hotter than neck pups might also apply to Barts. If that's the case then putting the Bart neck pup on the GW35 will most likely just result in a lower output. The main reason a neck pup sounds rounder and fuller than the bridge pup is simply its position (the strings produce stronger vibrations here). If you put it in the bridge position it won't take that sound with it.

[quote name='Smash' post='890272' date='Jul 9 2010, 11:24 AM']Hi, does anybody know how much it would cost for a bass to be painted/resprayed? Thanks[/quote]

Depends on a number of things - how much prep is needed, type of finish you want etc. I've recently been quoted £200 for a solid colour overspray of a body that needs very little prep (no dings or buckle rash) or £250 if I wanted the old finish to be stripped first. Best thing would be to find a local luthier and discuss with them. There's a list of recommended luthiers on BC here [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26654"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=26654[/url]

Looks like a defret, can you please provide some close up pics showing the condition of the fingerboard? Also what is the weight and where are you located? Thanks

I can recommend Wavepad which is another excellent free audio editing software - [url="http://wavepad.en.softonic.com/"]http://wavepad.en.softonic.com/[/url]

'Transcribe' from Seventh String (http://www.seventhstring.com/) is designed for musicians and allows you to do all of this. You can change tempo without changing pitch or shift songs to different keys etc. Very useful bit of software

Hi, I live close to Guildford, any chance I could pop round and view tomorrow (Monday) sometime during the day? Ian


[quote name='obbm' post='858661' date='Jun 6 2010, 09:32 AM']Squire Vintage Modified Fretless Jazz strung with TI flats.

Excellent conditon (pix later).


£140 plus postage or collection welcome.







Just checked and it is completely unblemished.[/quote]

[quote name='Wimpy' post='850651' date='May 28 2010, 08:47 PM']PM send[/quote]

PM replied

[quote name='Toasted' post='850368' date='May 28 2010, 03:07 PM']PM'd.[/quote]
Replied

For sale to fund acquisition of a fretless is my lovely Moon JJ4.

Beautifully built and sounding bass, put together with care and attention not found on mass produced Fenders and the like. I bought it on BC last year from 'mike'. Originally imported to the UK and owned by 'loudandclear', see this post for more information [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=43605&hl=moon"]http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=43605&hl=moon[/url]

Very light and well balanced bass weighing in at just 8lbs 5 oz. Body I believe to be ash (from the grain), finished in transblue with matching headstock. Some minor dings and surface scratches (mainly on the back and a couple of small nibbles on the edge of the headstock) but nothing more than you'd expect from a bass that's been well played. Always a sign of a good bass in my experience.

Maple neck with brass nut and 21 fret ebony fingerboard. Chamfored neck heel to improve access to upper frets (similar to that on Mike Lull basses). All black hardware. Vintage tuners and bridge carry 'Moon' branding and logo. Moon branded single coil J pickups and Moon Blackbird 2-band preamp. Controls are Vol, Vol, Bass, Treble. Great playing bass. Sounds range from thunderous bottom end to great slap tone and burpy fingerstyle from the bridge pup.

Price is £525 which is what I paid for it - and those of you who know about Moon basses will know that's a very good price indeed! The last one on here was up for £750.

Collection much preferred (I live in West Sussex between Horsham and Guildford) but will ship at buyers expense if necessary. No hard case but will pack in old Warwick RockBag and heavy duty cardboard box.

Please PM if interested or any questions. If you're nearby you're very welcome to come and try it out.

[attachment=50746:P1030051.jpg][attachment=50743:P1030047.jpg][attachment=50741:Moon2.jpg]
[attachment=50749:P1030055.jpg][attachment=50748:Moon4.jpg][attachment=50747:P1030050.jpg]
[attachment=50744:P1030053.jpg][attachment=50739:P1030062.jpg]
[attachment=50740:P1030063.jpg][attachment=50742:P1030048.jpg]

[quote name='derrenleepoole' post='839656' date='May 17 2010, 12:08 PM']A few names to check out are East, a UK outfit with lots of kudos but not cheap. Audere do a straight control plate replacement but you must import from the US. And then there's Varitone stuff, available from eBay, quite cheap by comparison. All these will give you an active EQ, not strictly an active bass. Audere are superb preamps, as I have one. I've used East and they're amazing. No experience with Varitone, but the Youtube video demonstrations look very good.[/quote]

+ for Audere (got one in my JO4), superb preamp and they're about half the price of the East pre

[quote name='Beedster' post='840563' date='May 18 2010, 09:55 AM']I saw Rocco Prestia playing a Precision with the PUPs reversed, that is, the top PUP (E and A strings) was closer to the bridge than the other. I assume this would make the A and E strings slightly tighter sounding whilst having the opposite effect on the D and G? Any thoughts/experience of this?

Cheers

Chris[/quote]

Several comments here say that it doesn't make a difference but to my ears the reverse P on my BB2000 definitely tightens up the bottom end when compared with my regular P bass. It's not hugely different but does slightly change the character and gives a tighter sound.

[quote name='warwickhunt' post='839454' date='May 17 2010, 07:01 AM']Anybody got a suitable trade? [/quote]

PM'd

[quote name='The Goatreich' post='666030' date='Nov 26 2009, 12:14 PM']I've been offered discount with Picato strings and was wondering whether anyone has and good or bad experiences with them? They're cheap as chips, which is what worries me, but in order to take advantage of the discount I need to buy in bulk, so don't really want to spend that much money if I'm going to end up with a load of sets of strings I don't like.

I've always used Rotosounds Swing bass 5-string and got on very well with them, but they are very expensive.[/quote]

I've had an endorsee account with Picato for some years and have always been very happy with them. Generally use nickel rounds, various gauges on 4s and 5s, passive and active. Well balanced tone to my ears and as durable or better than many other brands I've tried. Fantastic value and very friendly service from the folks down at Treorchy

[quote name='richrips' post='832418' date='May 9 2010, 06:23 PM']Just checked out the link for the technical paper. Fascinating stuff. I like the idea of putting a load bearing member beneath the fingerboard at the inertial cedntre of the forces acting on the neck, rather than rely on wood, with its weird respnses to temp/humidity.[/quote]

Are you aware of the Bunker Tension Free neck? More info here [url="http://bunker-guitars.com/articles/tension-free.html"]http://bunker-guitars.com/articles/tension-free.html[/url] and patent doc attached.
[attachment=49335:Patent_US7326838.pdf]

[quote name='richrips' post='832179' date='May 9 2010, 01:46 PM']The truss rod is usually situated just beneath the fingerboard. It's job is to counter the bending effect of having strings under tension on one side of the neck. To do this it provides a tensile force of its own.[/quote]

The attached technical paper from Fender exploring an improved neck and truss rod design may be of interest
[attachment=49310:Guitar_neck_design.pdf]

[quote name='alanbass1' post='830296' date='May 7 2010, 08:06 AM']If you have a rack my favourite is the DBA160A - very easy to use and very transparent[/quote]

+1 on that, I've just acquired one and it's studio quality gear, very well thought out controls and you can see exactly what's happening to your signal

I need to change the effects loop on my LM III from parallel (factory default - goodness knows why) to series.

I have a service manual for the earlier LM II which shows how to do this - it's a very simple mod and just requires two jump connnectors to be changed, one on the preamp board, the other near the rear panel send/return sockets. Unfortunately the circuit board in the LM III is a little different from the LM II.

Does anyone out there have a service manual or circuit diagram for the LM III or instructions on how to make this mod to the LM III?

Thanks

The LMIII effects loop is factory wired in parallel - OK for some effects but not ideal for others such as a compressor. I have details on how to change it from parallel to series by adjusting two jump leads inside the amp but would prefer a mod that added a parallel/series switch. I contacted MarkBass who advised that it was not possible to add a switch, only hardwire it for one or the other.

Just wondered if anyone out there knows different and has managed to add a parallel series switch to an LMIII or can recommend a good amp repair person who could advise or make this mod?

[quote name='alanbass1' post='818847' date='Apr 26 2010, 08:19 AM']Don't dismiss 12" cabs. I use a pair of Bergantino 1x12's and they are great as well as portable - huge sound[/quote]

+++ a pair of Bergies is a great way to go, fantastic depth of sound and easy to lug around. I use mine with an LMIII and it's a no hassle great sounding rig. Not cheap but the best gear investment I ever made

The following may help (taken from [url="http://forum.ibanez.com/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=69722)"]http://forum.ibanez.com/Default.aspx?g=posts&t=69722)[/url]. Other factors affecting tone include the gauge of the wire (as well as the number of turns) and the winding pattern (which affects capacitance and harmonic content).

Manufacturers can determine the amount of output and tone a pickup has by altering two basic things:

1) The strength of the magnet. A stronger magnets creates a stronger magnetic field, and when that field is disrupted by the vibrating guitar string, a greater amount of flux is produced, generating a stronger signal. An unfortunate side effect of the stronger magnetic field is string pull. Extremely strong magnets can actually attract the strings and kill their vibrations, killing the sustain of the pickup.

2) The amount of turns of copper wire or the type of wire. Increasing the amount of copper or increasing its size will increase the resistance (impedance) and the inductance of the pickup, resulting in a higher output . A result of increasing impedance is the attenuation (loss) of highs in the signal. "Overwound" pickups are usually very bass and mid heavy and lack highs.

Pickup makers will experiment with these two factors (along with others) to change and create the sound of a pickup. For example, manufacturers will often use higher output ceramic magnets to retain some of the highs of their higher output pickups since the increased magnet strength will allow them to use less copper wiring, attenuating less of the highs.

One common misconception about pickups is that magnet have a direct effect on your tone. This is not true!!! The "Alnico magnets are warm, Ceramic magnets are harsh" theory is madness!! The role a magnet plays in the pickup is to create the magnetic field. The strength of the magnetic field determines the pickups OUTPUT, and different magnets can have different strengths. Tone is determined by the diameter and amount of copper wire, which creates the amount of inductance on the pickup. Remember, the higher the inductance and impedance, the less highs are put out. Magnets can have a small impact on some of the characteristics of the notes you play. For example, ceramic magnets have a higher output, which will generally create more punch and a sharper attack. Alnico magnets (depending on the type, there are 8) are usually weaker and have a softer, smoother attack, and may have a "spongy" feel. However, this has no effect on the amount of lows, mids, and highs sent out by the pickup, which is defined as tone. There are warm ceramic pickups and harsh alnico pickups out there.

Other factors affecting tone and output include construction of the pickup - eg. single coil (generally brighter and lower output) or humbucker (generally darker and higher output).

Just bought a DBX160A compressor from Nick. A real pleasure to do business with. Shipped to me very quickly, a great bit of kit and exactly as described. Many thanks!