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ikay

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Posts posted by ikay

  1. This link explains how to measure DC resistance of pickups while installed in the bass - [url="http://www.tdpri.com/forum/just-pickups/9291-how-do-i-measure-output-pickup.html"]http://www.tdpri.com/forum/just-pickups/92...put-pickup.html[/url]

    DC resistance is a frequently quoted pickup spec but only measures the resistance of the windings which doesn't tell you much about the output which is a function of the magnet type/strength and other factors (remove the magnets and the DC resistance is the same but the pup will produce no output at all). Inductance is more useful but is difficult to measure without specialist equipment.

    This link provides more detailed info on the key factors that determine pickup output and tone characteristics - [url="http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/"]http://buildyourguitar.com/resources/lemme/[/url]

  2. Hmm, one thing the D and A have in common is that they both go under the string tree. Have you checked that the tree is firmly screwed in?

    If it's not that or a dodgy string then the problem must be to do with the bridge or nut. Try the following one by one to see if you can isolate which:

    1. Press the D string down just behind the second fret and while its 'fretted' tap on the string just above the first fret. There should be a slight click or ping as it hits the first fret indicating that there is some slight clearance and that the nut is cut correctly. If there's no click/ping then the nut may have been cut too deep (can be easily fixed with a little super glue) and the open D+A strings may just be grazing the first fret

    2. Loosen all strings, place something like an allen key under the strings in front of the nut (put a business card underneath it to protect the fingerboard) so that the strings go over this rather than the nut itself to take the nut out of the equation, bring D+A strings up to tune and check

    3. Raise the D+A saddles at the bridge a turn or two to make sure you're getting good string contact over the saddle and check

    Then report back!

  3. If the action is as you like it (neck relief, string height above fingerboard) then the easiest fix is to raise the pickup. If it's already up as far as it will go then take the pup out (easy job - just take the adjusting screws out and lift) and put some more foam underneath. If you feel the bridge saddles are too high for comfort then shim the neck at the end away from the bridge as you suggest and then bring the saddles down.

  4. [quote name='Paul S' post='1064256' date='Dec 20 2010, 07:59 AM']Anyone else able to chip in with their measurements? So to speak?[/quote]

    Don't have a Fender standard to compare with but have a Gotoh 201 on my Squier VMJ which also measures 70mm and fits perfectly

  5. The Squier VMJ fretless is an excellent first fretless. General quality of build and sound is very impressive for something at this price point. Got me started. I've since acquired a 5 string fretless (probably a step too far given my meagre abilities) so may now sell my VJM. If you're interested drop me a PM

  6. Hi Clarky,

    I'm a fretless novice but have tried both and much prefer flats (TIs in my case). Large factor in moving to flats was the excessive string noise I got from rounds, no doubt due to my lousy technique. Planning to try some Status grounds soon which are apparently a good halfway house. BTW anyone who says rounds don't mark an ebony or phenolic board is lying!

    Ian

  7. I'm having a clearout, find it therapeutic from time to time. This is a USB interface and software CD for converting your old vinyl to digital audio files. Done mine a while back so no longer needed. Up for grabs to anyone who can make use of it. Just pay the postage and it's yours - Royal Mail special delivery is £5.50 (recommended with the current postal situation), regular first class is £3.00 (at your own risk!).

    [attachment=65935:P1030611.jpg]

  8. Hipshot BT4 Xtender suitable for American Fender Jazz/Precision basses 1990s to 2007 - like this one [url="http://www.basscentre.com/hipshot-d-tuners/hipshot-bt4.html"]http://www.basscentre.com/hipshot-d-tuners/hipshot-bt4.html[/url].

    Very good condition. Surplus to requirements so rather than clog up my parts box selling for £20 plus postage (UK only).

    Postage is £5.50 next day special delivery (strongly recommended with the current Royal Mail backlog) or £3.00 first class (at your own risk!).

    (Please note this is not suitable for the new American Standards 2008 onwards which need the BT8)

    [attachment=65907:P1030608.jpg][attachment=65908:P1030607.jpg]

  9. [quote name='ThomBassmonkey' post='1023587' date='Nov 14 2010, 04:49 PM']...I'd be prepared to travel to give them a go and could organise a day out and about going to shops a bit further away for it.[/quote]

    How about a nice day out in Warwick at Bass Direct - www.bassdirect.co.uk/
    Loads of interesting stuff there and only about 60 miles from Nottingham

  10. There's a wiring diagram on the Seymour Duncan site for their musicman replacement pup 3-way switch here which may help:

    [url="http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=musicman_3way"]http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wirin...c=musicman_3way[/url]

    EBMM customer service are generally very good though, I've had quick responses to several questions over the years

  11. [quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='1018885' date='Nov 10 2010, 03:31 PM']The chrome plated tuners on my cherry sunburst precision are as shiny as the day I bought it in October 1982, however the nickel-plated ones on my MIJ '62 reissue took on the aged patina naturally after a short while. If your new ones are chrome plated, I think you may need to change them for a set of nickel plated ones to get the desired look.[/quote]

    This is true, regular aging techniques work for nickel plate but won't touch chrome

  12. [quote name='BottomEndian' post='1014705' date='Nov 6 2010, 07:59 PM']And as if by magic...
    The single-coil has a distinct upper-end honk that the humbucker doesn't have, and the triple-coil combines the two pretty well.[/quote]

    Ah now I'm getting it! Very distinct tone with the piezo as well (which I really like). I can see there's endless fun to be had with filter tweaks as well. Thanks for sharing that, very useful..

  13. [quote name='BottomEndian' post='1013889' date='Nov 6 2010, 12:14 AM']Right, OK. Finally sat down and made a bit of a tone demo with the Recurve:

    Some shoddy playing in there, but you get the general gist. 5 different pickup settings, and if you [url="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UG3C81HWdRU"]click through to the video on YouTube[/url], you can read some info about the recording and preamp settings.[/quote]

    Lovely growly sound! The difference in tone between the settings isn't as pronounced as I'd expected, maybe that's because the filters were both wide open. Also the triple coil didn't seem noticeably quieter to me, did you even out the levels when you stitched it together?

  14. [quote name='Faithless' post='1013124' date='Nov 5 2010, 11:42 AM']I think it's a bit of myth of that scale thing, and there are other folks who could probably prove that (Eude?:) )
    and there's also much more comfort playing 33" thing than a regular one or, even worse, 35" thing.[/quote]

    I'm liking the sound of 33" scale and maybe chambered and single cut ... looks like I need several ACGs!

    Thanks for all of your input everyone

  15. Thanks BottomEndian that's all very helpful. I'm (pleasantly) surprised that TI's work with the shorter scale. A bit curious about the triple coil - and so much else! Do you have any recordings or sound clips of yours that you can point me to?

    [quote name='BottomEndian' post='1012721' date='Nov 4 2010, 11:05 PM']Oh lord, that one's just lovely. If I didn't have one that was virtually identical... :)

    On both of my 33" ACGs, the low B works perfectly. Alan's worked some sort of voodoo magic into the necks (I think it's actually just that they're [i]incredibly[/i] stiff) that means it feels pretty similar to a 34" B-string. I've got TI flats on both of mine, which are pretty low-tension, high-flexibility strings, and they don't feel at all flabby. And the sound of the B-string is well integrated into the rest; it's not like some 5ers where you hit the B and it sounds completely different. It's part of the instrument. (If you're really interested in the 33" thing, try dropping Eude a PM and see if he's going to the SE bash now he's a Londoner. He's got 33"-scale basses, ACG and Shuker, although they're both fretted and I think neither has the piezo.)

    The RFS is a monster pickup, with the meaty humbucker sound (reminiscent of a StingRay) and funky single-coil in one unit. The only downside is that there's a volume drop when you switch to triple-coil mode (unless Alan's worked out a solution to that problem). It's another great sound (kind of like the humbucker but with extra bite) when you whack up the volume on your amp to compensate, but it's a fair bit quieter than the others. Just a minor quibble.

    The piezo, though... that's where the joy is. Suits fretless really, [i]really[/i] well, and it ties in with the filter preamp to bring out the mwaah really nicely. The filter's a very "musical" system, and although it's not intuitive when you've been used to 3-band (or whatever) for years, it doesn't take long to get your head round it and there are loads of great sounds in there.

    Hope that helps in some way.[/quote]

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