hooky_lowdown

BreadBin I don’t think he’s going to max everything out and add an overdrive pedal on full as well.

My nephew has got himself a squire bronco bass to learn on, and he only has a small 15w guitar combo to practice in his bedroom. Seeing as the bronco is stock (with a guitar pup) and he’s playing at very low volume, would the amp (or speaker to be precise) be ok with the low end? Or does he need a small bass amp?

After years of trying various basses, I now exclusively play P basses. @OliverBlackman is right about strings - they are so important to the sound. I've tried almost every type of string and keep coming back to Chromes on my P basses, Fender flats are also pretty good as well. My Fender MIJ 62 RI with Chromes nails the sound I like, but I also like 51 P basses for there huge warm sound and fat necks. In fact I'm getting gas now for another 51 P.

UPDATE: I used debonder on the super glue along with a braddle, took some time but managed to remove much of the glue and am able to fit an allen key in now and trussrod works fine. Phew!

Thanks @Grangur although if the debonder doesn't work, I'll be returning it, and getting my money back. Cheaper than luthier bill.

I used a bradawl to remove the glue down to the hex. I don't have a small screwdriver or drill. I've just ordered some superglue debonder, so hoping that will loosen some of the glue first, then I plan on using the bradawl and/or very small screwdriver to hook out the glue in the hex. Man, what a ball ache.

Got a used bass on fleabay today, all looks good, until I start to set it up. Turns out some moron has put super glue down the truss rod hole a long, long, long time ago. Anyway, I've managed to scrape out the glue to the top of the truss rod, but I'm unable to get the glue out of the nut where the allen key fits. Any advice on how to get the remaining glue out so i can fit an allen key? N.B it's a Fender neck with truss rod access at headstock only.

The wood would make a difference, but I removed thick poly back to bare wood, added a few coats of tru oil and there was a difference in sound, after removing the poly i got a much warmer and woody sound which was what I wanted.

Thanks ikay

Wow, a lot of info - didn’t see anything about decal applications, sadly.

I'm building a 50s P bass, and now its time to add a decal. I have a Fender waterslide decal, spagehetti logo. I was told 50s decals were waterslide and were added without any lacquer on top, can anyone confirm this?

I know the Vintage V4 reissue P gets some love around here as a decent entry level P. I recently pulled the trigger on an original Vintage V4 P (not the reissue version) - headstock just has large "Vintage" logo - thats it. It has the Wilkinson branded pups, bridge, tuners, glossy neck - all the same as the reissue version. It is currently being courier to me so not got my hands on it yet. I've tried to find images / reviews on google with no luck. Every image etc is the newer 'reissue' version. Does anyone have any feedback or info about the original V4 P?

You can return them, but I think you must pay postage back to Germany - good luck with that.

@Trueno don't make my mistake and spend when you don't need a new bass. I have too many and need to thin the heard.

@James Nada custom made by a mate.

As a little project to keep me entertained, I got myself a p bass kit from DVD247 - super cheap. It arrived today, and I'm pretty impressed with the wood on the neck and body, both have a nice weight and grain. The body needs some sanding which I'll do over the weekend. I will need to seal the wood on both neck and body. Having done a little research I don't plan on coating the body in layers of poly, but keep the wood as natural as possible. I'm thinking of using 3 or 4 coats of pure tung oil, as I want a matte to silk finish, to retain the pale wood look. My question is, has anyone used pure tung oil and if so, any tips? I plan on applying a diluted first couple coats, and wipe away any excess after 10 mins or so. Then coats 3 and 4 will be full strength. Is there any prep work I should do before applying the oil, other then sanding down and cleaning the wood? I don't require a professional look, as its only a cheap bass. But any other ideas to seal the wood would be appreciated, especially if they require as little amount of work as possible?

Thanks Maude.

I've owned both Wilkinson and Roswell pup versions. Personally I liked the newer Roswell pup best, I liked the bigger poles and sounds big and warm as a 50s SC should. The newer models have deffo gone down in quality, the last one I had came with really poorly finished frets, and a nut which was cut too low - had to use the baking soda trick. I won't be getting another again. Shame.

All HB basses I've come across arrived with an allen key - use that.

Why change pups if they sound good? If it’s not broken... ! I had to change the cheap guitar pup on the bronco, the hot rails hugely improves the sound. Tuners were from a squier p bass affinity, closed backs, direct replacement.