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jdstrings

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Everything posted by jdstrings

  1. New Year Sale!! Price now reduced to £1350 Amazing value as it comes fully set up, with internal improvements and top quality strings.
  2. £1499 ono Lovely 'Zeller' 4/4 size bass for sale. All solid wood and varnish in pretty good condition. Made by the company Hora S A in Rehgin, the town known as the Cremona of Romania! This bass has just be repaired (a few minor rib cracks) and whilst the top was off various improvement works were carried out (top re-graduated, bass bar re-shaped, back braces re-shaped). With a new bridge and fingerboard shoot she is now sounding great and playing beautifully. Its a full size instrument so a nice big body and at 108cm string length still feels perfectly manageable. If you've ever played one of these basses and thought it was no good then it was most likely due to a poor set up. With a bit of care and attention and some decent strings these basses can both sound and feel like 'proper' instruments: if you don't believe me come and have a go on it! Far better value for money than any new instruments I've seen round this price. The bass will be earning its living at Canary Wharf for the next couple of weeks if anyone wants to come and try it out. After that it will be in Kent.
  3. still available.... open to offers.... sensible ones, anyway....
  4. I've had some interest, but the lovely laminate bass is still looking for a new owner....
  5. Price or Trade Value : £200 Up for grabs is my good old series 6 AH200. [url="http://basschat.co.uk/uploads/monthly_11_2013/post-6335-0-30159500-1383271402.jpg"][/url] It's had a busy life -I must have used it regularly for about 6 or 8 years but it has been in the loft for over a decade now. Everything works as it should and it seems to pack quite a punch for it's rated 200watts. The case shows plenty of signs of use -there's a couple of scratches in the green paint on the front, a few of the screws that do the case up are missing and the end fin of the heatsink and the metal lug on the other side of the back have been slightly bent (from carrying the bass in its gig bag) but it's all cosmetic! The amp was serviced by Trace Elliot (admittedly it was about 18 years ago!) after it developed a fault but that turned out to be no more than a dry solder joint. Since then it hasn't missed a beat! I've been keeping this amp as a back up but as I'm about to retire my current head that will become the back up and this one is surplus to requirements. The amp is still in its original gig bag but that its pretty wrecked (though still serves as a means of carrying and offering some protection). I also have the original foot switch which I will dig out. The amp features: Fully adjustable input gain with passive and active sockets. Graphic selection switch and Mid shape switch (both selectable with the foot switch) 12 band graphic eq Graphic level control Transformer balanced DI out with switch for pre/post eq. Effects send and return Preamp In and Out Output level Headphone socket (1/4") 2 1/4" jack speaker outputs (min load 4 ohms) I'm not sure what this is worth but I reckon £200 is a good starting point for any offers.....
  6. Lovely 3/4 laminate bass (from the 1970s/80s) made in the German Democratic Republic. It looks like a Musima one. I took this instrument in part exchange and have thoroughly overhauled it. These instruments are well regarded, and rightly so, as compared to many modern laminate instruments they are far superior in construction, tone and playability. To return this instrument to tip top condition I have: Reset neck joint. Shot fingerboard. Re-cut nut. Fitted a new high quality bridge with adjusters. Fitted a new flexible tailwire. Opened the belly and re-attached the bass bar. Stripped the varnish from, and oiled, the neck. The instrument benefits from a carbon fibre endpin, ebony fingerboard and innovation (silver slap?) strings. It plays really easily and has a good strong sound. The bass bar repair is fundamental to the instrument's sound and longevity and it is a common problem on these basses for the bar to come loose. Everything that needed doing has been done and this bass is now ready to face another 40 years of music making. You can pick these basses up for less but you won't find one this nice! [attachment=165332:20140619_132936.jpg] [attachment=165333:20140619_132959.jpg] [attachment=165334:20140619_133331.jpg] [attachment=165335:20140619_133316.jpg]
  7. No interest at £200 (or possibly just no interest....) so I'm open to offers! I'm pretty sure that I heard there's a 1990s revival coming soon so snap this up and be ahead of the crowd
  8. If you'll split them I'm interested in the amp.....
  9. Up for grabs is my good old series 6 AH200. [attachment=147343:20131101_020120.jpg] [attachment=147342:20131101_020140.jpg] It's had a busy life -I must have used it regularly for about 6 or 8 years but it has been in the loft for over a decade now. Everything works as it should and it seems to pack quite a punch for it's rated 200watts. The case shows plenty of signs of use -there's a couple of scratches in the green paint on the front, a few of the screws that do the case up are missing and the end fin of the heatsink and the metal lug on the other side of the back have been slightly bent (from carrying the bass in its gig bag) but it's all cosmetic! The amp was serviced by Trace Elliot (admittedly it was about 18 years ago!) after it developed a fault but that turned out to be no more than a dry solder joint. Since then it hasn't missed a beat! I've been keeping this amp as a back up but as I'm about to retire my current head that will become the back up and this one is surplus to requirements. The amp is still in its original gig bag but that its pretty wrecked (though still serves as a means of carrying and offering some protection). I also have the original foot switch which I will dig out. The amp features: Fully adjustable input gain with passive and active sockets. Graphic selection switch and Mid shape switch (both selectable with the foot switch) 12 band graphic eq Graphic level control Transformer balanced DI out with switch for pre/post eq. Effects send and return Preamp In and Out Output level Headphone socket (1/4") 2 1/4" jack speaker outputs (min load 4 ohms) I'm not sure what this is worth but I reckon £200 is a good starting point for any offers.....
  10. The time has finally come to clear out some gear that I no longer use.... [attachment=147341:swr.jpg] This is the highly regarded and sought after SWR Baby Blue Monitor speaker cabinet. These are really quite rare and are considered to be top quality units. They are often described with words such as 'studio quality' and 'reference'... It was made when SWR were a much less well known 'boutique' company. It features 2x 8" and 1x 4" drivers. Serial number is 0030. This is the original version (produced in the early 1990s) featuring Bag End speakers and a rating of 200w at 8 ohms. I gigged this cab for about 2/3 years, mainly on double bass, in the late 90s but since then it has been hiding in various lofts. When I purchased it (from a well known London sound engineer) it was 'as new' -I don't think he'd ever gigged it, just used it for practice at home so it's had an easy life. The two reasons I stopped using it were: 1. I picked up a FLITE cab on a trip to America which I preferred simply because it was far lighter! 2. The 4" speaker blew. I have recently replaced the 4" speaker with a Stage Line 60w PA Midrange speaker. This may not be the ideal replacement but it does the job and I include the original Bag End 4" driver for repair if desired. There is information out there on the web re. other options. The two 8" speakers are original and appear to be in excellent condition. The cab itself is in good order -there is some wear to the plastic corners but the carpet covering, grill and handle are in good condition. Measurements are: h 58cm w 36cm d 31cm weight -I believe it is a little over 30lbs The cab is in Kent but I am often up in London and travel to various other random spots so I may be able to deliver or arrange a meet up. £250 seems reasonable? but am open to offers..... Here's what SWR say: [b]BABY BLUE MONITOR[/b] Introduced in 1990 primarily for use as an extension speaker for the Baby Blue Combo (or as part of a modular system with the Electric Blue) the Baby Blue Monitor was the "speaker enclosure only" section of the popular Baby Blue combo. [b]Impedance:[/b] 8 ohms [b]Power Handling Capacity:[/b] 200 watts RMS Two 8" Bagend drivers One Bagend Cone Tweeter [b]Production Period:[/b] 1990 to 1993 [b]Final Retail Price:[/b] $559.00
  11. HH. Didn't that stand for Hum and Hiss..... !!
  12. Ye gods! Someone actually bought it. And for £62 plus £20 shipping.... Wonders will never cease!
  13. [quote name='rikodriko' post='1275580' date='Jun 20 2011, 09:43 AM']unlucky dude! Ive got an amzing bass with an amazing tone, and was recommended a realist - so i bought one and my amplified tone is muddy, and nasal and the output is so low that its almost unworkable... All the reviews on the realist say that its the best pickup EVER for DB, but is just dont work on my nice (non ply) DB... recently just bought a schertler Dyn-B contact mic and preAIII preamp system on ebay and im super happy with the results - im closer than ever to replicating my unamplified DB sound - now just gonna buy a EA wizzy speaker and i think ill be sorted then. So - to cut a long story short - you are right not all Pickups work the same on DBs - experimentation is the key - but thats time effort and money...[/quote] Very true about pickups all suiting all basses. The same thing goes for strings. A friend of mine did a test on a Realist to see how it responded to different frequencies and found that it doesn't really 'do' the higher frequencies. I can't remember the exact data but it seemed to have a very marked roll off of the higher frequencies. That said, I use one and have used it on many basses (both my own and when playing on hired instruments) and haven't ever encountered a problem with the sound. Also I had excellent customer service from them! I believe that the output of the realist is actually quite high -(it seems to put out more level than my musicman bass guitar). Is it possible that the Realist you had was faulty? I have heard that they can deteriorate with age and I had one which stopped working properly (but still sort of worked) after an idiot sound engineer sent phantom power directly into it... grrrr!
  14. I hope that this cautionary tale may entertain or inform! One of my customers recently brought in a similar quality instrument to the one mentioned in the preceding topic (though this one bears a makers label reading "Fitness"). I had done various jobs on the instrument over the past couple of years. This time one of the seams had opened and the was a complaint that it seemed to be hard work to play. The seam that had opened turned out to be a point where the joint was made with filler rather than wood so rather than a quick glue up, it meant cutting back to solid wood, bending and shaping a small new section of rib (and the internal lining), gluing up, closing the seam and then touching up the varnish. The 'hard to play element' was a bit more serious. The action of the bass did seem rather higher than I had set it and it was indeed hard work to play. It didn't take long (like about 20 seconds!) to find the cause of the problem: the neck had warped forward by several millimeters. This had both raised the action and increased the concavity of the fingerboard. My advice was simple -time to get a proper bass! This advice was swiftly followed and he is now the proud owner of a nice German flatback of about 100 years vintage. For anyone looking to buy a cheap bass I think it's worth remembering that there is a reason they are so cheap and there will probably be hidden or not so hidden costs. Money is saved through use of cheap materials, approximate putting together, and the most cursory of set ups. I've had to set up a few of these instruments from new and it can sometimes take a while just to get them properly playable. In this case the bass had been purchased second hand for very little money (£100? I think, including realist pickup) and had served it's purpose for a few years. But is now of (virtually) no use to man nor beast and the makers name seems deeply inappropriate! When asked if I knew anyone who might like to purchase said "Fitness" bass I suggested that a fiery sacrifice to the gods of bass might be the best course of action. If my advice is followed I'll be posting some photos of a real bass death....
  15. If I can see correctly this is a steel wire (with a plastic covering) which has threaded brass ends crimped onto the wire. The wire itself is very unlikely to fail, however the crimped joint seems to be a weak spot and I've seen a few of these that have failed there. The best type must be the multistrand steel cable with a nicopress-type joint. I guess that if you're selling a bass for £445 then any opportunity to save money in production/set up has to be taken; even if it only saves a few pence then that soon adds up.
  16. A friend of mine is selling an AER Performer Combo -it's on ebay at the moment or if you contact me I can pass on his email. It's a really high quality combo with an output (I think?) of about 200W. The only reason he's selling it is that he bought it to try as a keyboard amp but has decided it doesn't really do what he needs. If you look it up on ebay there's a link to the manual with all the technical stuff!
  17. Hi, I have a box of old endpins and you're welcome to come and see if there's a collar that'll replace yours. Alternatively, I have a few new ones in stock if you need one in a hurry and don't mind a trip over this way. I'm near Cranbrook in Kent.
  18. how about Jerome Davies? bass specialist near Cranbrook in Kent. Website is jeromedavies.com
  19. Hi Ewan, Depending on the value of the bass I think £50 might not be a bad offer! However here's some thoughts/things to bear in mind: I'm assuming that it's a solid top (not laminate). If it is laminate then it's probably just a visual defect in the top layer. If the crack is not 'live' i.e it is solid and there is no sign of movement if either side of it is pressed down then it has either been repaired/glued and should not present a problem. If it is live then it needs repairing so it doesn't spread, but given the position it's a pretty straight forward job and £50 should more than cover it. Basses are big unwieldy things and it's bound to get a knock sooner or later but if you really want to have the privilage of being the one responsible for the first one that's fair enough! ;-) I guess if you return it you may have to pay carriage costs which could be quite a bit. Good luck sorting it out....
  20. A few more thoughts for you: Is your bass set up really well? After 14 months it's not entirely surprising that it can still be really hard work, but if your bass has set up issues it could make life harder. It's worth checking (or getting checked by someone who understands these things) the string height at the nut. This is often left too high on 'factory' setups to ensure that when the bass is sold there are no unpleasant fingerboard buzzes to put off perspective purchasers. If the fingerboard is properly shaped then the gap under the strings at the nut should be tiny (definitely less than a millimeter). Also string spacing at the nut and the bridge can have an effect. If you have smaller hands or fingers the distance from where you hook your right hand thumb round the fingerboard (if you do) to the 'g' string can have an impact. I also notice you have a 5 string bass. This will presumably have a bigger/thicker neck for you to work with and will entail a bigger stretch to pluck the g string both of which will make life slightly harder. I know it's quite drastic, but if you are mainly playing jazz gigs it might be worth considering getting a 4 string or at least trying one out to see if it's easier. I can't imagine the bottom string gets a whole lot of use? There are other 'set up' adjustments that might also make your life easier by making the bass respond or speak better. These include soundpost adjustment, bridge adjustment, tailpiece adjustment and bottom saddle height adjustment (which in effect alters the downward pressure of the strings on the top of the instrument). All of these can have an effect an even if each is only small they can soon add up. Finally it's worth considering the type of strings you are using and their characteristics such as tension, thickness, and the amount they 'roll' when you play them. I've used some 'less expensive' synthetic cored strings which (certainly on the bass I had them on) were horrible because they rolled a considerable amount each time they were plucked which made everything seem 'treacle-y' for want of a better word and made me dig in and work a lot harder. I hope all that is not too overwhelming and that some of it proves relevant to you!
  21. If you want something a bit stickier and soft try POPS. The other thing is that rosin becomes softer as it warms up so you could try keeping it in your trouser pocket before use!!!
  22. My top choice for technique is a tome by Knut Guettler (?) who I think was/is professor at the Oslo Conservatoire(?). It is basically for classical players but if you want to be good you need to get a solid basic technique and that's where you'll get it! Amongst other things he explains the physics behind getting a good sound (mainly with the bow as I recall) which I think was really helpful when I was starting out. I never owned the book, hence the sketchy details, but borrowed it repeatedly from a library!
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