- Matt -

audiozone.dk

[color=#666666][font=verdana, arial, sans-serif][size=3]Looking for a 2nd guitarist. Influences include Deftones, Misery Signals, Funeral For A Freind, Karnivool, GnR.... Own transport, good gear and creativity a must. [/size][/font][/color] West Sussex area. [color=#666666][font=verdana, arial, sans-serif][size=3]www.facebook.com/Killingvegasuk[/size][/font][/color]

[quote name='Shockwave' timestamp='1375170268' post='2157395'] Buying basses is generally a bad investment. Don't forget that more basses and guitars are being produced per year NOW then ever before. So they are unlikely to reach prices as high as current vintage instruments. Best find the cheaper vintage instruments now, and hold onto them. [/quote] I would agree with this. I bought an '81 Les Paul Custom 2 years ago and it's gone up by about 20% already and it's not that sought after yet. As instruments hit 30 years old they tend to become more collectible for some reason! Like the recent increases mentioned for the early 80's Fenders.

Agreed, the only way to stop the phasing would be to install a series / parallel switch. But the phasing "quirk" is part of the vibe of the J bass.

The Classic MIM stuff is available in both poly and lacquer finish: [url="http://www.fender.com/en-GB/basses?series=classic"]http://www.fender.com/en-GB/basses?series=classic[/url] You could get 10 basses, all the same spec and they would all feel and sound different. Don't discount a particular finish type, you might really like a bass somewhere out there in that finish!

8/64ths on the bass side, 6/64ths on the treble side. (pickup height is measured from the pole piece to the bottom of the string on the bass and treble sides with the last fret depressed.)

A to B on the E are normally the most resonant notes. You can often get a door or loose fitting to vibrate with those! As Mr Alsatian says, check your pickup heights. Might just need taking down a turn.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1365673112' post='2042564'] When you take a scratch plate off a 9 year old bass, that's never been off before - & you can still smell the cellulose - that's Nitro not what someone's read on the www somewhere. [/quote] It will have a nitro clear coat that you can smell. It's a 3 part finish with the first coat being a non-lacquer "sealer", then the acrylic colour coat and then a "nitro" clear coat.

[quote name='KiOgon' timestamp='1365628266' post='2042169'] Fender USA Highway 1 P-bass 2003 all original = Nitro definitely, Transparent Crimson Red. [url="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/kjon51/Fender%20USA%202003%20Highway%20One%20Precision%20Bass/110620121471.jpg"]http://img.photobuck...10620121471.jpg[/url] Date [url="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/kjon51/Fender%20USA%202003%20Highway%20One%20Precision%20Bass/070620121428.jpg"]http://img.photobuck...70620121428.jpg[/url] No grease bucket [url="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/kjon51/Fender%20USA%202003%20Highway%20One%20Precision%20Bass/070620121430.jpg"]http://img.photobuck...70620121430.jpg[/url] Head decal [url="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v48/kjon51/Fender%20USA%202003%20Highway%20One%20Precision%20Bass/110620121464.jpg"]http://img.photobuck...10620121464.jpg[/url] More pictures if you want [/quote] 2003 to 2006 was Satin Acrylic Lacquer Finish, not nitro. (Although it is a similar type of finish - just more stable and less prone to cracking / checking etc)

Truss Rod is 3/16 Saddle height is 1/16 Intonation is 7/64

there's no branding on the pups so hard to tell. Why do you ask?

Highway's are poly finished up to 2006 so you need to get one of the later models for nitro.

[quote name='absentmindeduk' post='1212751' date='Apr 27 2011, 03:49 PM']@Matt: When you say; Using an imperial ruler, measure distance between bottom of strings and top of the 17th fret. Do you mean like this: [attachment=78497:PIC_0620.JPG] If so, by my reakoning thats 16.1875", yet the string height there is slightly over 0.125", you think it should be approx 0.078 - 0.093? Also, a capo? Sacreligious! I play the bass! lol. -Can't check 8th fret without one (or another pair of hands), so will have to do that later... Andy[/quote] No, from the top of the metal fret to the bottom of the string directly above the fret. [url="http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/images/action/measure.jpg"]http://www.fretnotguitarrepair.com/images/action/measure.jpg[/url]

[quote name='absentmindeduk' post='1212675' date='Apr 27 2011, 02:29 PM']Hey guys, wondered if anyone may be able to offer a bit of help... Question is really, when it comes to adjusting the truss-rod to see if I can get the action down a bit (it's terrible at the top to the neck), does anyone know what sort of measurements I should be looking at around the 12th? The guitarist in my band does his guitars and suggested fr a guitar he usually just holds the 6th and 1st srings down (separately) at the first and the highest fret and there should be a tiny gap around the 8th.. Andy[/quote] Andy, The action and relief will depend on the neck radius. Here's a guide to what you should be looking to achieve, depending on your playing style: Truss-Rod Check your tuning. Install a capo at the 1st fret, depress the 4th string at the last fret. With a feeler gauge, check the gap between the bottom of the string and the top of the 8th fret Neck Radius - Relief 7.25" - .014" 9.5" to 12" - .012" 15" to 17" - .010" Using an imperial ruler, measure distance between bottom of strings and top of the 17th fret. Adjust bridge saddles to the height according to the chart, then re-tune. Experiment with the height until the desired sound and feel is achieved. Neck Radius - String Height Bass Side - Treble Side 7.25" - 7/64" - 6/64" 9.5" to 12" - 6/64" - 5/64" 15" to 17" - 6/64" - 5/64"