fryer
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Posts posted by fryer
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ok, thanks. and the scarf joint is just glued ?
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In the 4th picture above, why are you clamping the headstock ? Isn't it from one piece of wood? How did you fix the headstock to the neck ?
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Just realised that I need to add battens in the front, to fix the grille to. I will need to squeeze the driver and the port away from the edge.
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thanks John.
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having read the '1x12 cab to replace 410' thread, I assume not. I will stick to the Beyma.
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Just a thought, but would an Eminence Kappalite 3012 LF work in this ?
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The area of 1 x 110 ( 9.5 cm2 ) is 1 1/2 times that of 2 x 64 pipes ( 6.5 cm2 ) Is this how it handles more power ?
A 110 will fit, if I move the speaker down a few mm, but it will be close to the edge - around 12 mm. Or I could put the port in the back ? Or I could use four 50 mm pipes which will fit in the front ?
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Insulation. The board I'm using is leftover from a friend's flooring, and has around 6 mm of pretty solid sound insulation glued to one side of it. Will this help, or should I remove it ?
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Why haven't these pdf's appeared as pictures ?
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But I have drawn the plans. First one is how it should look, with my ATS cab on top. Second is the detail, and third is the cutting list.
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thank you so much Phil - I wasn't looking forward to doing that. Richard
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The original box had ports. Maybe I'll try harder this time.
Is there a formula for calculating the diameter and length ?
Also, wiring. I'm using a peavey minimega, with 2 speaker connections ( parallelled ? ), and pairing with an ATS cab which also has 2 connections. Do I just run one cable from each amp outlet to each speaker ? Does that then split the power between the 2 cabs so they only take half the amp output each ?
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So I'm going to use Phil's cab design, but change the dims slightly to suit the size I want, being 348 wide x 440 high x 300 deep internal. This gives 46 litres, less a bit for the speaker itself ( as advised by Phil ). I'll work that out tomorrow.
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thanks for your help Stevie and Phil (whom I have messaged, and who has replied. ) I'll get started then.
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thanks Stevie. I'll get one. I can't find LMS though ( but I've found lots of learning management systems ). Where can I get cab design for it ?
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In what way is it not suitable ? Sorry, I don't understand these things.
And what driver should I go for ? I am pairing it with an ATS S 310x2, which has a 10" driver plus a passive speaker, rated at 500w at 8 ohm.
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thanks. If I'm using 20 mm ply, I guess I won't need to brace it ?
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So I may not get the 400 w out of it, but I am going to proceed anyway. I have decided the size, and how to make it.
I have asked Mr Fleabag to add some comments, as I have just read his 15" speaker cab build.
I tried Bill F, but no reply.
I will need help with sourcing 'tuff cab' & edge protection later.
Where can I get the ports ?
I can do a diary if that's normal ?
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Dear Mr Bag. I have just read this post with much interest, and congratulate you on your build.
I started a post recently - 'cabinet build - from scratch'. Could you please look at that, and maybe help me with some answers ?
Richard
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58 minutes ago, Mottlefeeder said:
Eminence provide speaker design details for most of their speakers, but you have to go to that speaker page to get to them.
For your unit they offer this - http://www.eminence.com/pdf/Delta_12A_cab.pdf
In a large box, it goes deep, but has limited power handling (2.5 cu ft / 60Hz / 50W). In a smaller box, it handles more power, but does not go as deep (1.35 cu ft / 78Hz / 100W or 0.75 cu ft / 100Hz / 200W).
It might work in a monitor wedge, but not very well as a bass guitar speaker.
David
thanks for finding that. I found the spec sheet, but couldn't find anything about a cab for it. But it's a 400 w speaker ?
case for short scale bass
in Accessories and Misc
Posted
Thanks. I think the Viking may do it.