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Silky999

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Everything posted by Silky999

  1. Silky999
    Thanks folks, I think it is the nut that’s causing the issue but the prospect of more filing feels me with dread! As much as I hate to because I like doing my own setups, I think I will have to get it looked at by a luthier rather than bodge it. I have got it as close as I dare lol. thanks again for the help.
  2. Silky999
    The strings are new D'addario balanced tensions. I've even considered that it might be a dead string but I think this unlikely as it's two strings and they are out the same. Lozz, I think that maybe the best way forward as I also rarely venture down the dusty end lol
  3. Silky999
    My SR1820 D and G absolutely spot on open and 12th and near as on all other frets. E and A spot on open, very, very slightly flat on 12th but near end of bridge adjustment. Bloody sharp on all frets until about 6th. I must admit I have a good ear and I can hear it sharpness on the lower frets, not massively but just a little off on E and A. On the tuner it’s about 1 bar over the green at 1st which resolves as you fret up the board. So far I have; Checked the relief - perfect for me String height is between 2 - 2.5 mm across all four and no fret buzz Adjusted bridge Set witness points with no obvious large gaps when fretting at 3rd Very slightly filed the nut on E and A which has helped but this makes me VERY NERVOUS as it# easy to remove material but you can’t put it back! I ensured that I sloped the nut back down on the tuner edge. I’m loathe to file the nut any more especially as the saddles are at the end of their adjustment towards the pups. so my questions are...... how accurate does the intonation need to be? should I intonate to pitch at the lower frets but be out at the 12th? am I just playing to the curse of the electronic tuner and back away from the screwdriver? is it possible to get perfect intonation across the board on all frets? any advice or hints please.
  4. Silky999
    Hi all, I’ve been playing for about 18 months and recently in a 4 piece rock/pop covers band. I’m a self confessed Ibanez SR lover as I have child like hands( take my strong hand, child). I have a new SR1820 and my beloved 1989 SR800. I’m running these through a TC Electronic BH500 head and a choice of BC210, BC410 and BC212 cabs. My dream is to have a custom built bass made specifically to my spec.....perhaps one day. I’ve already had plenty of good advice on this forum.
  5. Silky999
    Thanks for the advice. I’ll give all those suggestions a go. I think you’re right about playing alone allows you to hear all those noises that you wouldn’t hear at band practice or gig. I’ve got band practice tomorrow so it will give me an opportunity to put the 1820 through it’s paces. I’m playing through a TC electronic BH500 head and one of their BC210 cabs in the music room. I will try winding back on the head and bass eq. I’ve double checked the setup today especially the pup height. I can’t really dial the master on the 500 above 2 or the house rattles lol. For gigs, I use 2x12 and 4x10 with the head. thanks again for your advice
  6. Silky999
    Absolutely love it! I’ve put some D’addario balanced tensions on it and I’m busy breaking those in. Lots of highs and punchy so dialling mids and highs back until the strings wear a little. The Nords are amazing! One thing I am finding is that going from playing tapes to rounds is the amount of string noise! I love the sound of the rounds and growl but the string noise has caused a bit of a confidence knock. I’ve tried with tapes and chromes on the 1820 but don’t like the tone plus I have my SR800 wearing tapes for the more mellow stuff. Ive tried dialling out some highs and I’m now working on my muting and fretting technique but It still shocked me how much string noise there was. What didn’t help was shifting cabs around in the music room so that it is now at head height when I’m sat practising highlighting fretting noise etc lol
  7. Silky999
    Absolutely love it! I’ve put some D’addario balanced tensions on it and I’m busy breaking those in. Lots of highs and punchy so dialling mids and highs back until the strings wear a little. The Nords are amazing!
  8. Silky999
    Thanks for the compliment. it was my first “proper” bass so has sentimental value.
  9. Silky999
    Sorry, change of heart so removed from being sold.
  10. Silky999
    This SR800LE is a genuine 1989 Fujigen made bass with the Ibanez serial number still on the rear of the head stock. At some point in its 30 year life, it has been professionally upgraded by a luthier with EMGX PJ pickups and preamp along with a custom pick guard. It is running at 18v so has extra headroom by using 2 x 9v batteries. This was prior to my owning it. It has clearly been done by someone who knows what they’re doing as the work is superb. The controls are P volume, J volume, tone and master volume. The Gotoh tuners and bridge are original and the only alterations are the pups, preamp and pick guard. These have transformed a great bass into a fantastic bass. The fretboard and frets are immaculate and I wonder whether it had been refretted at the same time as the other upgrades. Everything works as it should, truss rod, bridge etc. There are no crackles or hums. The neck is thin and fast and body coloured. I have fitted Schaller S locks to it and recently restrung with D’addario roundwounds. There is a Kliq aircell strap also with Schallers and generic hard case included as well. There are some dinks on the headstock and buckle rash on the body but then this is an old lady. I have tried to show the condition in the photos. I have also included photos from a shop website where the bass was sold previously. These were not taken recently but are more arty. This is a reluctant sale due to this bass becoming my backup after buying a new SR as a Christmas present to myself. I am open to sensible offers but no trades. This was at the top of the Ibanez range when it was made and has the build quality you would expect from a Japanese made bass.
  11. Silky999
    So I went with the SR1820 as I couldn’t justify the extra £500 for the 2600. Especially when they both have same pickups, bridge and eq. thanks to everyone for all the advice.
  12. Silky999
    At least I will be able to A B them
  13. Silky999
    Folks to further complicate things, Andertons has a brand new SR1820 at half price. It’s got the Nords, the only difference I can see is that the neck is 5 piece as opposed to 13 and the body wood is different. I take it onboard about the tapewounds. I’ll stick with the stock elixirs. I used to use them anyway. So it’s now a choice between the 2600 and the 1820. Is there enough of a difference apart from finish between the two to justify the 2600 over the 1820?
  14. Silky999
    Thanks folks for the advice and opinions. I am quite torn but I think at the moment, the 2600 has the edge based on the opinions of the Nords and I hate to say it.....the looks. I love a gloss finish on my basses and the 2600 is a cracker! I’ve never had a brand new bass always pre-loved so the prospect of having a bass that I completely know the history of is also a big factor. I’m going to trade in my Cort C4 LTD and maybe the SR800 to offset the cost. I don’t really want to part with the 800 but I suspect that it will be needs must if I get offered decent money for it. The 2600 is also £100 off in Andertons as well. I have d’addario tapewounds on both my current basses and love the feel, lack of noise and great sound they produce. Would tapewounds be a good choice for the 2600 or stick to the stock Elixirs?
  15. Silky999
    Ead, how did you find the Barts?
  16. Silky999
    Merry Christmas, I have the option of buying a new SR2600 or a used SR4500. Which would you go for? The new one is just under twice the price of the used bass. The SR2600 has 2 Nordstrand pups and the SR4500E has two Bartolinis. The SR2600 is Ibanez premium range made in Indonesia where as the 4500 is a prestige range made in Japan. Clearly the 4500 is older, 2012 I think, and will have a few battle scars. I already have an 1989 SR800 MIJ so know that the neck etc on both will be something I like and I’m used to. I can’t A B them as one is in a shop, the other on eBay. The bass will be used for gigging in a 4 piece pop/rock covers band I’m in. I have no experience of the Nordstrand or Bartolinis except what I have seen and heard on YouTube. My SR800 has EMGX pups and preamp. In PJ config so different layout to both the basses I’m considering. Both basses sound good. The 2600 is visually stunning where as the 4500 is more understated but I would not necessarily go on looks as a decider. At the moment my heart says 2600 but my head says 4500. The 2600 can be used active or passive which I believe is also true of 4500. I’ve never bought any of my basses from new so that appeals to me but I appreciate that more bass can be had for the money buying used. So do I go new or used? Would the Nordstrand cut through the band mix better than Bartolinis? Is the newer EQ better than the old. Any advice, opinions and comments from anyone that’s has either bass or knowledge of them to help me decide is gratefully received.
  17. Silky999
    Yes they do. Would they make much difference to the sound if I keep the existing preamp?
  18. Silky999
    Thanks for the reply. I assumed, perhaps wrongly, that the MM pups were active? Are they in fact passive with the battery supplying a separate preamp? So if I want to go the EMG route I would need to use their pots etc and remove all the old stuff?
  19. Silky999
    Hi all, I’m new to the world of changing pups etc and wanted some general advice. i have two large soap bar Mighty Mite pups on my C4. They are105mm so I am looking at upgrading to EMG45DCX for both. I have some EMGX on my SR800 MIJ and really like the sound. These were already on that bass. The C4 has a master volume, pup blend, bass and treble pots. The master volume is also a push/pull for active/passive. Can I just wire the EMGX to the existing pots or do I need to replace everything? I expect that I would lose the active/passive option and it would be permanently active. If I need to replace everything, what EMG setup would I need? i have looked at the EMG website and it isn’t clear...... Sorry if this is a basic question.
  20. Silky999
    So after some extensive digging around through old Fender parts catalogues..... The “58291xxx” in the neck pocket refers to a Fender MIM standard jazz bass body. The last 3 digits are the paint code. I think the WW is a QC initials. I took out the neck pup and there was a barcode with “MOxxxxxxx” This also matches with a MIM Fender. Overall it’s an April 2010 MIM standard jazz bass body fitted with a maple Mighty Mite neck in June 2010. I don’t know what the pups are.
  21. Silky999
    So I’ve given it a clean, new set of nickel wound mediums and set it up. Plays like a dream and sounds superb. Best £140 I’ve spent for a while.
  22. Silky999
    So update as I now have the bass in my hands. the neck is a mitey mite with a label stuck over it with “Chris June 2010” written on it. The body has a stamp and serial number on it which I cannot identify. Any ideas??
  23. Silky999
    Setup I can do and a new set of strings. As I said, I will post back on here when I get it next week with what I find when I take it apart and clean it. thanks again for you help and advice....
  24. Silky999
    I’ve never changed a bridge or tuners before. A simple task? Would changing these affect the tone and playability? Anything to beware about when removing the neck? Excuse my ignorance but I’ve only done strings before and don’t want to f@@k it up. I’m assuming it’s the 4 screws on the plate at the heel of the neck? I’m also torn about putting the bridge cover and PU cover back. I don’t want to try and make it something it isn’t. I would like to get the holes on the body sorted if possible. Is that an expensive job as I don’t want to go nuts on the body on something that is what it is? I really appreciate everyone’s comments and I will post back when I get the bass in a few days and dissect it.
  25. Silky999
    Lol, beauty is in the eye of the beholder as they say.... I’m starting to wonder if it’s possible that it’s MIJ copy well the body anyway. The neck and body do match some of the Fender American and deluxe especially the older ones. Can someone tell me what the small circular metal widget is on the back of the headstock? Is it some sort of alternative for the string clamp on the front?
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