Mr.T

+1 P-Bass = Long scale.

[url="http://www.markbass.it/products.php?lingua=en&cat=1&vedi=66"]http://www.markbass.it/products.php?lingua...t=1&vedi=66[/url]

Markbass show a graph of the filter shapes on their website and also in the owners manual.

The DareStrap looks like it would be pretty good for my petrol strimmer. Anyone tried one.... on a Bass?

Hi Peter, The VLE definately doesn't cut bass. It starts to cut at 250hz (low mids) and carries on cutting all the way up to the top (20mhz).... in a slope. The more VLE that is applied the steeper the slope. So, if both VLE and VPF are used together the effect would be a 'smiley' face with the left side of the smile being higher than the right. (Hope that makes sense).

[quote name='GreeneKing' post='480625' date='May 6 2009, 07:51 AM']I always run my amp EQ flat and use the filters (never both together) to get my desired tone. Running both filters together seems strange to me as why fill and scoop the mids at the same time? Fairly obviously the cabs make a huge difference too as does the bass. In fact with an ACG pre amp most of my tone shaping is done 'onboard'. The GS112 Aguilars are great with the LM II and the filter can be used to fill the mids on these slightly mid scooped cabs for cutting through.[/quote] My understanding of the filters is: VPF... Scoops the mids centred at 380 and boosts the lows and highs. VLE... Cuts frequencies above 250 So both can be used (in moderation.... or not!) and they wont be fighting each other.

Hmmmm... I didn't notice any more Bass when I tried the Status Grounds, just less Treble.

I have been using 'Rounds' for many years and recently experimented with 'Flats'... and found them to be not for me. I then tried a set of Status 'Grounds' and they definately sit between Rounds and Flats... and have enough ring to be slappable. They are good quality strings (They are Status!), but again not for me, so I have gone back to Rounds. I only played with the Grounds for a few minutes at home and I'll be selling them.

My advice would be to mark the holes on masking tape, as already suggested then.... Find someone who owns a small drill press to drill the holes. It's worth doing properly!!! ...and no risk of wonky screws.

My osteopath would like me to buy that!

[quote name='aj5string' post='447964' date='Mar 28 2009, 12:06 PM']Cheers peeps - I've gone with 2x18's suggestion... will let you know how good it is![/quote] .... How was it?

Max bought my Korg MultiFX. Friendly guy to deal with.... Cheers Max.

[quote name='budget bassist' post='455814' date='Apr 6 2009, 08:31 PM']You can use regular nail files, though if you want something that might take a bit more off, try some metal files, a quick search on machine mart brought [url="http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/search/filter/file/type/any/page/1"]these[/url] up[/quote] I thought the width of the slot is fairly critical? Or is it just a case of making sure the string sits snuggly in the bottom curve of the slot?

I have fitted a Mighty Mite Jazz neck to a P-Body recently purchased from a fellow BassChatter. The neck fitted perfectly with no need for shims.... However, the nut needs filing to lower the action. I have read up on the subject, and it seems fairly straightforward. Can anyone point me in the direction of where I can get my hands on the files required to do the job? I don't want to spend much on them, as I doubt it is something I will ever do again.... as I usually play Status basses.

Allan bought my Trace rig. Great guy to deal with!

Sold Steve my Zoom B2.1u Nice guy to deal with... Thanks!

Sorry, I wasn't that specific was I? The neck is maple with a maple board and looks/feels like naked wood, although I think it is sealed with a thin satin finish of some kind. I would like a satin finish similar to that on my Squier VM Jazz... but a bit darker. Definately not a heavy type lacquer.