bloke_zero

1 hour ago, LukeFRC said:

I played with the back of an enclosure as a test piece - I've found that the wood block behind wasn't hard enough - steel jewellers bench anvil and a lump of steel that a mate found had better results. I still need to work out the best way to set up a stamping process so I can align to a baseline.... I think that S is upside down too!

You're already getting better results than me! Ok, time to get some kind of mini anvil!

On 14/10/2023 at 20:31, LukeFRC said:

Well for this preamp I'm trying stamped enclosure a la Fairfield Circuitry. I love the Fairfield aesthetic - if I suddenly had a massive bass pedal fund I might very go and buy everything they make and make some beautiful and crazy noises- I really really would like to try the accountant... and the meet Maud.... and... yeah you get the idea. 

I tried this - I reccomend experimenting with a spare enclosure or something. The amount of force required to get a good imprint is quite high, so you will want to have a piece of wood inside directly supporting the metal as you strike it, otherwise it is possible to dent/deform the metal. I think they also flow ink inside the stamped indentation or something as otherwise it's pretty illegible.

In my head I think it went: 1. stamp lettering, 2. clean with IPA (so ink can stick), 3. ink lettering, 4. buff/clean surface. But that was just what I thought on the basis of not having really got it right.

Look forwards to seeing your results - it's a lovely aesthetic as you say!

As for getting the finish - maybe dremel? Though you probably want something with a larger polishing surface so it's nice and even.

14 hours ago, Owen said:

They are just super grunty. I realise that that is a super subjective way of putting it, and pretty meaningless really as anything could be grunty given enough gain at the front end. They have clarity and a cut which is quite unlike anything else I have tried. Like a full-throated roar if needed. When I say clarity I am not talking about shiny high frequencies. Wow, tone words! They mean nothing!

Tone words mean nothing?! I feel like I'm understanding you more clearly than I do many people!

It was mostly unticked for me, except a few which, like Velarian, were pre-ticked but greyed out so couldn't untick them.

I'd be thinking about these: https://www.emgpickups.com/bass/j-models/jvhz-set.html

I have the GZR P-bass version and it sounds right to me. I'm not an expert on jazz pickups though!

If you're using firefox you can turn on Strict Tracking Protection which should block these.

It's a sad fact of modern life that the commercial model for much of the internet is this data farming. Installing an adblocker like uBlock origin and disabling tracking is a must for me.

If I were in the same boat I'd carefully remove all the electronics by desoldering the output connection and replace with new pickups and wiring harness - that way you could always replace the old set with minimal disruption.

Before I did that I'd try some experiments with carefully clamping the headstock etc to try and rule out weird resonance on the E - it'd be gutting to do all that and then find the problem was still there!

Nordstrand are good - they tend towards the more modern but I've had good results. Depends what tone you're after!

Some of the settings are disconcerting, especially the special features. I understand there is a cost to running the servers and all the good work that goes in to the site. This has just nudged me into paying my subscription again! But are all those privacy settings really required?

It's all well and good to have an assurance that this information isn't being used, but as someone who is very careful with their privacy (out of cussedness as much as anything else) I feel uncomfortable with having my devices profiled etc. (Yes I have denied that permission, run uBlock Origin etc etc.)

Wow - that was a real journey! Came out well in the end! Did the reso-lites solve the neck dive?

Great work! I'm a big fan of the reverse P - I hope it works out well for you!

On 16/09/2023 at 01:18, LukeFRC said:

I doubt anyone cares, missing parts ordered, avoided buying another PCB for either the 1590bb or 1590a enclosures I have floating around...

We all care! It's a situation I can empathise with. I have an enclosure I drilled 1 too many holes in 5 years ago and replaced - I'm still wondering what I can put in there!

Ampeg are pretty good in this regard:

https://ampeg.com/products/pedals/

I have the SCR-DI and although it's fussy about input level (there is an internal dip switch for high output inputs 😐 ) it sounds pretty good and has aux in and phones

I played one like this (same colour and year I think) about 5 years ago - that was one of the nicest basses I’ve ever played.

A big part of the original stingray sound (given the pickup position near the bridge being quite bright) was the preamp.

I'm sorry this is in German but it's the clearest explanation I could find (with diagrams!): https://andyszeugs.wordpress.com/musicman-stingray-classic-preamp/

There are several options for preamps.

7 hours ago, Arnoldas said:

Hey guys, not to revive a dead thread, I'm also looking to replace my bridge BUT, I'm am looking for a bridge that has the option of adjusting string spacing. Is there any recommendations of such a bridge for a 5 string MM sterling?

Not with adjustment per se, but these guys seem to suggests they might make a custom bridge with your string spacing?: https://www.albridgeparts.com/ - I have one and I'm very happy with it, very well made and thought out.

Hard to find MM bridges generally! Let us know if you have any joy.

Frustrating getting dust of any kind into the grain! I know what you mean about the barrage of information - sometimes you have to get involved to find out what is actually important the hard way. Worth it though!

On 11/08/2023 at 10:24, Woodinblack said:

I suppose if you either made it hollow (not sure how you would do that) or made it thinner it would be less weight. Not sure the headstock is adding too much weight.

Also shape - if you went for a steingburger shape you could probably get it down quite a bit..

Oh.. look at that - https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32859958210.html

Looks from the pictures as though they also make Cort. Tempting!

17 hours ago, Rexel Matador said:

Not sure why I went so all-in on the high fret access. It's not as if I use them.

That may change when it's easier! I have basses where the better access encourages playing higher.

4 hours ago, Passinwind said:

banjo-dobro hybrid

?!?!?!? Banjo you play with a slide with the fingerboard facing up?

19 hours ago, NancyJohnson said:

 

I suppose you could also look at it by saying the circuit was designed to tolerate 18v and should be 18v, but operates okay at 9v and is sold as such.  

 

Oddly - and swerving the thread a little - I have a Geddy Lee Tech21 thing - the DI-2112.  It works fine off a 9v PSU, but it sounds better/fuller with an 18v supply (to quote Tech21 'for increased headroom and clarity').  

I've got some EMG's which, to my ears, did sound much clearer and less fuzzy at 18v like you say.

In terms of it not working properly at 9v - I guess part of the equation is battery realestate - it's relatively easy to find room for 1 9V (say in the channel from the pickup in a p-bass) but harder to find room for 2 without getting serious with a router.

On 25/07/2023 at 20:22, Hellzero said:

These are excellent lightweight replacement bridges, not sure they will fit a Bongo... Just ask them.

 

https://www.ampshopbassexchange.com/product/albridge-parts-mq5-sterling-music-man-replacement-5-string-bass-bridge-black-18mm-string-space/

 

Shame about the spacing - this is one of 2 MM style bridges I could find - it took a while to come but it is really well made. Why are there so few options in this space? Does EB prevent their sale?

Thanks! I've done a couple, and my mate has done 3-4. The trick is really slathering it on and leaving it a couple of days - comes out dark and lustrous!

22 hours ago, johnDeereJack said:

but I really wish it had an ebony fingerboard as opposed to pao ferro - it just looks odd

This really helps with that: https://www.montysguitars.com/products/montys-montypresso-relic-wax

Leave it to soak in overnight and it really darkens. The longer you leave it the deeper the stain. This is leaving it on overnight. (I have no affiliation with Monty's!)

9 hours ago, tauzero said:

On second thoughts - over 450 solder joints. I've got a better chance of being the next man to set foot on the Moon than make 450 faultless solder joints.

Check this out though? : https://aionfx.com/app/files/ibom/xenotron.html

Interactive BOM checker! I'm tempted now just for that alone! I built a copy of their meatball pedal (not from aion) and it's an amazing creation. Not something I'd use live as it's so sensitive to playing/knob position, but wildly fun in the studio.

Sometimes just giving them a few turns brings them back (like 10/20 turns back and forth). Most pots don't need maintence as such, certainly not after 6 months.