bloke_zero

16 hours ago, PaulThePlug said:

That is a lovely looking thing!

Reverse P BC Rich Eagle
 

I like the shape, and the electronics seem interesting. I don't need it and there are very mixed reviews of the electronics.

Not cheap: https://www.montysguitars.com/collections/bass-pickups

I like how well researched and how much attention to detail they pay - they get a lot of high end guitars in for re-winds etc, so they know their onions.

2 hours ago, LeftyJ said:

 

I think you're confusing it with the Caprice (PJ) or Cutlass (P). The old Cutlass I and II were a Stingray and a Sabre with a graphite neck. 

You're right! Sorry. Ok - GHS boomers - brightish, growly and aggresive to complement the HH.

The new one or the old one? The new one is more like a P-bass: flats for detroit, rotosound rounds for rock. I'm a big fan of GHS Boomers for a middy aggressive sound (Flea the most Famous endorsee).

The old one (dual humbuckers), I'd be thinking round wound?

It really depends on the music you're playing?

 

Probably just a mistake packing? I'd send them the picture and ask for a proper replacement.

Nordstand might have the right options for you? They make some nice MM and Jazz PUs and do old school flavours...

5 minutes ago, BigRedX said:

Are you going to be able to program this set up to do "scatter winding"?

I was wondering that too! Sort of like a euclidian random walk? In terms of the benefits to the sound it might help you sound like a drunk with concussion? Joking aside it's supposed to even out the magnetic field or something?!

Love the look of these! What is the scale? Medium?

I've had some work done by them in the past and got a '72 p-bass pickup from them. The attention to detail and character was great - in the end it wasn't quite what I wanted, but in a way that feels like a tribute to the work they put in - you could very much hear the difference. I'd be confident that they were making the right moves to get a great 62 copy - they do loads of high end guitar repairs, a lot of rewinds and have seen the inside of everything.

22 hours ago, orangepeelneil said:

I'd recommend Volume Volume master Tone, like my old OLP MM passive bass was like 

Nice solution - easy to reason about, easy to implement.

13 hours ago, AndyTravis said:

Very brief sample of sounds.

 

It’s 99.9% finished - need to adjust truss Rod. But letting it settle with roto flats for a day or so.

Looks and sounds lovely to me!

It shouldn't be impossible - someone will know. There are a limited number of formats for these things. You'd need to find the make (like Molex?), the type, the size and whether you need some cripplingly expensive crimping tool to make it work.

It might well be you can get a couple of them off ebay for a few quid and use needle nose pliers to attach the crimp terminals. I'd have thought they would be somewhere in the technical documents for the preamp, or someone on a Yamah specific forum could tell you the exact model number etc.

I'm with you. I love the dark rich roast colours. I tried this:

I only put on a light coat and then quickly polished it off. If you wanted darker then you can leave it on. I'd be tempted to try it out on something non-precious, or maybe the hidden bit of the back of the neck to see if it's going to do what you want. It felt more brown than the rich yellowy brown of roasted. I'd be wondering about a double stain to get that kind of texture. But it might get you close enough.

13 minutes ago, LukeFRC said:

there's three FETs in there 2x J201 and a 2N5457 - the trimmers are to bias them.
The sag then underbias the 2N5457

 

 

Circuit is stupidly similar to the Barbershop except the Barbershop (v1) the bias under biases all 3 J201. 
Doesn't sound the same though. 

Ah, the joy of overdrive in all it's many flavours!

On 20/11/2023 at 14:08, LukeFRC said:

But built up fine in a 1590b with top jacks … not masses of wiggle room though!!  
blue bits are tape on the back of pots and the input Jack. 
sounds great - I built a barbershop clone (v1) and the circuit is very similar - this is like it’s big heavier brother tonally, plus with eq 

Cool project - it came it very well! What are the trimmers trimming? And no replication of the Sag?

I got one of these:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00GYWLR9Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I liked the outcome - it was gentler than I expected, but I fully reccomend trying it out on another piece of wood first. It took some of the sharpness off the fret edges as well.

39 minutes ago, neepheid said:

 

Speaking as someone who owns a bass which came wired that way, I can tell you that it's the most underwhelming tonal difference I've ever heard.  It's almost a DFA switch.  I rewired it to be Series/Single/Parallel, at least that does something to the sound.

That's my favorite for MM. Mainly use parallel and some single for when thin and gritty is needed. There isn't quite enough distance between the coils to get much variation. Series often a bit overblown for me, but I can imagine it might come in handy.

Cool project!

5 hours ago, Bigwan said:

Ordered the lightning boy transformer. Should have a lot of the passives in my stash with any luck!

Where from? All I'm seeing is this one: https://www.lightningboyaudio.com/2020s.html

Edit - sorry, I wasn't looking right: https://lightningboyaudio.com/store/p69/mic_input_transformer.html

On 03/11/2023 at 14:31, Doctor J said:

How do you set the relief? Any bow in the neck adds string clearance for the lower frets only and tends to mean you have the action lower on the higher frets than you really should have, giving you this kind of buzz. The bow is adding behind the fret you're playing at, meaning you've sod all clearance at the higher frets. Loosening the truss rod will only exacerbate this.

 

First, put the original shim back in at the heel. A Badass bridge maxed out means the strings are a long, long way from the body.

 

Set the relief so that, when you hold the strings down at the first fret and the last fret, you have a gap about the width of a business card between the bottom of the strings and the top of the frets. No more than that. Once that's done, then set the action.

 

 

I agree - setting the neck relief before adjusting the bridge saddles is the best way. Trying to fix these problems without the right neck relief can be impossible.

& my mate Max says 'action so low it slaps itself'. I dunno how useful that is though!

It's not easy to get a good slap tone! There are a bunch of good videos - Scott is always good!
 

Here is the Albridge - I'm pretty happy with it.

Below 👇

https://www.armstrongmusic.co.uk//hardware-parts-c1/bridges-tailpieces-c2/bass-c96/armstrong-music-musicman-style-bass-bridge-chrome-p2093/s2780

Has tracks for the bridge pieces so they don't shift around like the ones on yours.

7 hours ago, slowburnaz said:

For what it’s worth, here’s a fretless with my pickups and a Lusithand (though these are the coil pair per output versions):  

 

Fretless demo starts at around 3:35.

Sounds great - very even and defined. There is such an incredbible range on the Lusithand that I started having to take notes on the good ones. Especially when you get into blending pickups.

I still really like the filter boosted and totally open or just pulled down a notch - adds a lovely air and bite.

The turners really seem to add to the clarity and definition!