itu

I am not quite sure, what is @BigRedX after here? I did make an educated guess that the magnets are from the same batch, although they are different in length OR some poles are adjusted to different height and the main magnet is uniform. I would be very much surprised to hear that magnets of different strength would be selected to E, A, D, and G string on any mass produced pickup. But I know that you can buy bigger batches that are of certain strength, because I worked with magnets some years ago.

Put the Chief (or the Grizzly) right after the bass. Not to the loop. Try that first. Then compare the sound in the loop.

If your bass has a preamp (a battery powered tone stack), it may be so that the placement of the OD/dist/fuzz can be whatever. The signal that drives the pedal is lo-Z (low impedance) and the signal is practically the same in the pedal chain. But if your bass is so called passive, that fuzzistor of yours may act differently if it is the first after the bass, or deeper in the chain. Do trials, and please comment here later on.

What's that? Looks incredible!

The distance is the key word here. You move the poles further away from the strings, the magnetic field diminishes, and the signal becomes fainter.

I was about to write that the sound becomes fainter, but that can be adjusted by amp gain. Make trials to hear the difference in sound.

Buy a Bourns MN 250k or 500k blend pot, and tin it in between the pickups and the vol pot. Done.

Slowly.

You can also try Rod Stewart's Da ya think I'm sexy. Bassist (whose name I forget) has very good feel.

Mine's powered, Countryman type 85. Built like a brick. Can be used as a hammer, or a brick.

Harley Benton Noise Gate NG-100, a grey one with 4 knobs. It can be used like the expensive Boss Slow Gear unit.

Piezo creates high voltages compared to a magnetic pickup. The impedance (Z) of the output is also very high, in the mega ohm range (magnetic pickup is just few kilo ohms). The preamp has to be able to tame the signal, and turn it to reasonable Z. Even if the preamp works fine, the recording interface should have a high impedance input. Usually the XLR input is for lo-Z signals like microphones. If the (jack) input has any switch for hi-Z input, use it.

13 is slightly complicated, but 7 and 9 doable. Every now and then I even play 7 when there's maj7, and vice versa. My bad, and I don't actually hate them.

6 hours ago, MacDaddy said:

As there is Fender Road Worn, pedestrians should have the option of a Fender Path Worn (or Fender Sidewalk Worn in the USA).

No one walks in the States, is that something similar to (water) closet classics?

2 hours ago, MacDaddy said:

Fender Telecaster: Fender Radiocaster.

Just add Broadcaster.

Why not Fender LocalRadioster version? Or AMster built in the Netherlands.

My Status, Modulus Graphite Quantum, and Vigier necks have been hollow, except MG Genesis (carbon spine). The heel part may be filled with some material, like wood.

That talkbass builder, Marko Ursin, has built many interesting basses.

When mixing several systems, it is not so uncommon to build problems in the overlapping frequency area. Again, a real time analyzer (RTA) and a good X-over can solve many issues. One thing to remember is that ear gets used to any sound - even to bad one - quite quickly. And louder sounds better, although that's poison to your ears until it's too late.

Do several measurings like once a week until you feel comfortable with your system. Sometimes a friend visiting and listening to your system could open up interesting details.

Loudness is one thing you should understand. Measure some levels, and compare them to the board's master. Write down the levels somewhere: a 10 dB difference is much, but you can approximate the loudness with those steps, 0 / 10 / 20... remember that everything over 85 dB(A) may cause a possible hearing damage in the longer or shorter run.

Doubling the power (88 dB(A)) halves the "safe" listening time. 120 dB(A) isn't that far away. These figures are averaged, and your hearing may be more sensitive to loud sounds, than someone else's.

10 hours ago, Baloney Balderdash said:

Must be some kind of witchcraft.

If the jack was faulty, it would have been Switchcraft.

Where's that coat...

Sly & Robbie, anything from them.

@KingBollock

A simple switch may be too simple, but a rotary one would solve your need.

I might guess these are from D'Addario.

Because of interest, and I happen to have some materials at hand, I tried few materials. PC and POM work well, PP is a bit brittle. Teflon is slippery, and could be the best choice.

Not very special for a s/he with a decent soldering station and quite a bit of skills.

Rubber O-rings will come out. The pressure is so big. PMMA is too brittle, but oily plastics like PP, PE, and polyacetal might work well. They are quite easy to machine, too.

A cheap trial could be a small, clear storage box made of PP, cut it to pieces and drill holes to it. Carefully cut or file to size.

Should I print "sarcasm" over my previous comment?

If I hate B. Springsteen's voice, but I've heard few very good versions of his songs sung by someone else, are his songs good?

If someone voted for democraps or republican white trash, is it OK to listen to the great music that idiot made?

If late Wolfgang Amadeus Beetroot had controversial opinions, and even actions, can we consider symphony no. 9 a masterpiece? (By the way, he received money from his work, so he can not be a divine artist, but just a simple workhorse, no?)

Replacing is very easy: detune the bass (loose strings), open the screws, and replace the washers/bushings.

To be honest, I am not sure what material is the bushing. I think it could be PP, PE, POM. Where to get those, no idea. A local plastic shop sure could help.

Cream colour, could be a DiMarzio.