itu

Onkart Gromt Funky fellow

Subdecay has two models, I think

Iron Ether Xerograph (and Deluxe)

DOD FX25 (and B)

Some reading:

https://www.hochstrasserelectronics.com/news/introductiontoenvelopefilters

4 hours ago, fleabag said:

PS ... DeOxit didnt do anything.

Did you move side those metal stripes of the output jacks with any tool/screwdriver? If there's any gunk in between contacts, some mechanical movement could help.

L in, L out, or is this a mono amp (1 in, 2 out)?

Always check fuses with a DMM, although they may look good.

Input and output jacks seem to have switches that may be corroded. Switch the amp off and remove the cable. Take a small screwdriver and move the switches (metal stripes of the jacks) back and forth. If you have deoxit or similar, apply some.

If the switch is an ordinary DPDT, you can change the outer wires the other way around. Done.

Dark sound emits under 20 lumens to a surface that receives less than 5 lux.

Do not place the bass to direct sunlight. UV will change the colour and the temp difference can be substantial.

As you can see here, it is descriptive, but means nothing. We do not have words that have been standardized, and have certain, detailed descriptions. Here we only have opinions. Exactly like wines that taste round and fruity.

Say what?

Sax, trumpet and trombone players hate A and E but Bb and Eb are something they favour.

I think... some basic knowledge could be gathered about bass, its setup including strings, amp + cab, and some basic accessories (case, pedals, cabling). Most of the newbies could start with those stickies, and lots of threads could be omitted.

Otis Bedding - Husher man

Prince - Drop life

I want it now!

MTD

Modulus wide necks

Modulus Genesis

Warwick wide necks

Do some search, we have been talking about this earlier.

When that feels too easy, check Da ya think I'm sexy. Bass line is by Phil Chen.

Centuries ago scales were not tempered. Therefore C# and Db didn't have to be the same note.

Lutes and gambas had frets, but they could be moved. They were moved for every scale so that certain intervals sounded good. Now read the previous chapter again.

When a particular scale was used, it sounded different back then. Nowadays tempered scales have changed the game completely: now C# sounds the same as Db.

C# major has 7 sharps, Db major 5 flats. Centuries ago they really sounded different, because C# and Db could sound different: they were in different places of different scales. This isn't the case any more.

The scales formed since ancient greeks changed after Händel and the like started experimenting with tempered scales. String instruments were relatively easy to re-tune for every scale/song, but cembalo, organ, and piano were a chore.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_comma

This may clarify a bit the reason for those "theoretical" scales. They were very useful back then (and have a place in certain circumstances), but now it is possible to use scales up to 6 sharps and flats and practically cover every minor and major scale aavailable.

Baroque and older music played with old instruments may sound slightly strange, because their A may be quite a lot lower, and the intervals are not based on tempered scale. That's why they couldn't have played II-V-I progressions. Listen and learn.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concert_pitch#History_of_pitch_standards_in_Western_music

Alpha pots, I wonder where are the values? Taking one off might reveal numbers and letters, like 250 kA (A means often Audio taper, but not always, as there are no standard codes). Measuring is an option.

Looks a bit like a low power iron. Therefore I guess you have been warming the pots a bit too long, and the tracks may be in bad shape.

Pot covers need +50 W, contacts nearly anything from 15 W. Lead free has made soldering more complicated: higher temp needed, not so easy tin. Good resin helps, just like with 63/37.

If you just replace all pots and use a decent iron and tin, the system will work for years.

I bought a cheapo amazon holder, and I bought it again, after it broke to pieces, when the previous stand fell to the floor. A good one would be nice, but haven't found a decent yet.

Mic stands are heavy, and my solution has been a carbon camera tripod. Weighs nothing and is sturdy, Sirui T-025. It is my travel tripod, but lately there hasn't been so much travelling or photographing.

Thread lock may be a tad too strong, but nail lacquer isn't. A common help, available, and cheap solution. Colour is up to you, though.

22 minutes ago, Jason Karloff said:

Please don't "tongue test" a 9v battery.

Because...?

No wonder. A true beauty.

The neck IS different. Everybody talks about double truss rods, but one thing is the string spacing from nut to bridge, loved it. The neck heel could have been rounded differently though.

1 hour ago, miles'tone said:

Well this is interesting...

Yes, but mine was second hand, and I bought it in '86. £1450 today.

(I should have added that it was my first own bass. Decent to play compared to Cimars and Yahayas of the time, and Fender has never been my thing anyway. There was one very good Aria Pro II, but the owner didn't want to sell it for obvious reasons.)

Molds cost an arm and a leg and some more. No wonder Status wasn't investing to a one more mold.

I like wide necks, but there are very few 5-string wide ones, and those tend to cost a lot. I did an investment to a Modulus Genesis 5, that I bought from @graham1945. I used it three hours ago in a gig, and it is super stable. Wonderful sound, too.

I actually tuned the bass with a Peterson SAM tuner on Wednesday, and it was still in tune after few days and a gig. Excellent performance.

The headline was "NBD, my first Rickenbacker". Years ago I could have written: ORD (old Rick day), my first bass.

It was from 1974 and black. From Denmark street, and cost was £400. Lovely. I might try one again, but the price, no way.