itu

Just came home. It was wet outside. Both ways. Place was small, good sound. Everything was going well, few surprises from the song choices, but managed. People were dancing and happy. They drank a lot. We got good food, others had even wine, I was driving.

I noticed one elder lady with a short dress, and red shoes. I complimented her shoes while passed her. I had to go back, and whisper that actually her legs were perfect, too. That blink in her eyes made my eve... most probably hers, too.

By the way, never put YMCA and Gimme gimme gimme side by side. Right hand fingers hurt after those swift octaves.

A major comment:

A C# E.

A major has 3 sharps and they are F#, C#, G#. A major cannot have a D flat in it. D is the fourth note of the scale, not the third.

Sometimes it is feasible to use a flat (or a sharp) in the middle of sharps (or flats), but legibility dictates that you should use only one or the other way with basic majors and minors.

How about a single, and a dual coil, i.e. a bright J to the bridge, and a thumpy humbucker to the neck? There seems to be place for a dual, there.

You can make a Faraday cage from a net, where the eye size dictates the lower frequency limit: the smaller the eye, the higher the f.

On 08/12/2023 at 15:43, rwillett said:

1. Any holes will come out as ellipses as gravity takes its toll. So the large three holes in the middle would need to be designed as ellipses in the vertical axis so they sagged down to a circle. Doable but a pain.

A good point, quite often we did machining afterwards, because of this. Printing exact shapes like screw holes is a real pain, no matter with polymers, or metals.

JBL PRX 735.

Big with big amps in. Very nice sound, but clumsy in size. Not super heavy. Have to have stands, but there aren't stand supports!

Band didn't like them in the first phase, but there's no need for an external bass box / sub. Now everybody loves the sound.

I fixed the stand issue by assembling K&M mounts to them with some silicone and screws. I found the centerline by using a thin stripe of wood. Moving the speaker on top of the stripe revealed the centre of mass. This was very important, because the speaker is somewhat heavy and bulky.

Drilling opens the box and reduces bass response, so it was crucial to use silicone to seal the hole under the mount as well as screws.

You can't hurry love

Baby love

Heat wave

These seem to be on the "fewer notes" side, although, as always, the feel is the thing.

You are after vintage, try Ibanez Dead End.

Schaller's straplocks have changed a bit during the years, check the nut every now and then, as well as the newer pin/screw combo. They may loosen in use.

Dunlop is a functional one, check the duo version.

Any unit you choose, regular check of the screws and nuts is important.

An addition: Vigier used inserts in the body. Take a look at it:

Buy the book! A must have: it's more than excellent including CDs, stories, and scores!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Standing-Shadows-Motown-Legendary-Jamerson/dp/0881888826

Of course there's wear, just like with fretless basses. The question is whether you bought the bass for playing or do you just want to keep it in mint condition?

One day the pots start to crack. Nitro finish will look yellowish, maybe even crackled. Belt will make a scratch. Headstock hits the drummer.

Use your instrument. It loves to be played.

Try nickel strings on fretless. SS is harsher in sound.

If you worry about the fretboard, try halfrounds (or sell the bass). It was built for playing.

Just wondering what kind of a selection you have if this is leaving? This is a steal, wish my bank account was alive.

23 hours ago, Poacher said:

...and I use active bass guitars so the input signal is that bit higher than passive guitars.

You sure? Have you dialled a smiley eq from your bass (B&T @11)? If not, the output can be higher or lower than a hi-Z output bass ("passive").

52 minutes ago, Matt P said:

...my rule is that if a quirc squirt of servisol doesn't work then the pot is replaced with a new good quality one (usually CTS)

Quality and a carbon track pot in the same sentence? They are contradictory terms. You want quality, why not buy a plastic track Bourns instead? Or a cermet?

5-string needs an amp which is able to produce 50 Hz i.e. the important  first harmonic. Very common.

Problems start with cabs, they need to be able to reproduce that 60 Hz with ease.

The first bass is nice looking, and similar to the player's that you admire. The second is an interesting one. The third is the one that fits you.

We can suggest anything to you, just like car or shoes. But if you do not test drive anything, your choice will be a chore. Now take a walk or a drive to the nearest music shop. Test everything they have, trust your ears and hands.

1 hour ago, basshead56 said:

Looks like the leftmost is for short scale basses, and...

My modest testing (around ten units a few years ago) and understanding is that you need to test the pedal with your basses. Hi-Z ("passive") output of a bass produces different response compared to a Lo-Z output. My feel is that there's of course difference because of the output level. Remember: a battery powered preamp may have higher or lower output level compared to a "passive". Still the impedance seems to have an effect on the behaviour.

Some compressors tend to have similar behaviour. Other effects are less prone to the output Z of the bass. Envelope filters can be easily tweaked with level/gain, time-based units from chorus to reverb do not seem to care about Z.

A friend of mine hasn't played this very much, and because of certain family affairs he asked me to take care of this all original neck through Musician (serial starting B86...).

Addition:

I suppose this is 1987 MC2940AM

- MC is Musician

- 29 ???

- 40 may mean fretless, because 24 seems to equal frets

- AMber

https://ibanez.fandom.com/wiki/1987_Japan_catalog?file=1987_Japan_catalog_p20-21.jpg

I think I told this earlier somewhere, but... I had played piano for +10 yrs, but wanted to try the g-word. Bought an old, red Hagström. My schoolmate was an avid g-word player at that time and looked at me and said: "You're so big and ugly, why wouldn't you play bass?"

My voice is low, and bass actually felt like mine. Bought an old 4001, then went to a music school to learn jazz and pop. My playing is not very flashy, although I try to overplay too often... so far I have played maybe 2000 gigs. Not very much compared to pros, but enjoying every opportunity.

I checked the picture of the cab and read Rihanna instead of Piranha. It is time to go to bed.

FX loop tested with a cable? Older amp may have some oxidized contacts.

On 22/11/2023 at 16:35, tauzero said:

I do not know where did you find this, but acoustics lecturers told me 120 dB is the threshold of pain. I have seen something like this in some American materials. Scale is based on 5 dB steps which is awkward. 3 dB is based on hearing.

0 dB is approximately the threshold of hearing, but some people can hear -3 dB levels.

I found these two threads:

https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/286315-arthritis-in-neck-vertebrae-arm-neck-hand-chest-pain-vertigo-advice-needed/

https://www.basschat.co.uk/topic/326376-back-ache-any-tips-to-avoid/

I was playing a gig, and forgot that my right hand does not like the body shape of the J bass. I had to shorten the strap a bit and then my right hand started to lie on top of the body. That affects the circulation in my hand, and at the end of the gig my hand felt like a log. I really need a muscle hammer now.

What issues you've had that have prevented or hindered your playing? How did you survive?

Some words mentioned earlier:

CTS = carpal tunnel syndrome

back, or neck pain

arthritis

ischias

bursitis