BlueMoon

Sound advice.  ^^^^^^^^^^^

Flat neck and clank is absolutely normal. It’s all part and parcel of the Ricky experience. Especially when playing with a plectrum.

Embrace it, Enjoy it!

Nothing particular to advise. The above recommendations are on the money.

I use glue very sparingly, in a single spot, on the base of the nut. This should avoid a repeat of the present cause but also allow removal of the nut as necessary at another time. I have had to deal with removing a nut that was glued in  with so much glue it was a real pain to remove……..and, it was a bound neck. Nasty.

32 minutes ago, Doctor J said:

The Dimension tried to enter a space created by Musicman and G&L 30-odd years previously.

Very true………and Fender has a history of falling behind. An earlier example was the Precision Bass Special, which was their first active bass coming out in the early 80’s. I know that was a troubled time for “Big F” but having a big brand name is just not enough, especially these days.

2 hours ago, Jean-Luc Pickguard said:

These only work with tuners that have screw-in bushings as opposed to push-in bushings don't they?

Correct……they anchor by replacing the washer under the threaded cylinder shaft of tuner. I added one to the B string of an American Professional P5 and it cured an annoying rattle. Pricey for what they are though!

39 minutes ago, itu said:

Fender himself wanted to go on, and built refined instruments with MM, and G&L. He wanted more and better. Why wouldn't you? 

Unfortunately it seems every time Fender dares to bring out a modern instrument it tends to bomb with the hard core P and J fans, and they pull it. The Dimension is a case in point. Not a bad bass, but it didn’t last long. Tweeking the existing high demand instruments and charging a huge premium for the name seems to be their philosophy.
 

I found the mid 90’s US output a notch up in terms of quality (coincides with John Suhr’s input, no doubt), as well as mid 2010’s. The Ultra is a step down from the Elite in my eyes. No longer a MM truss rod wheel adjuster and no string though body option. Onwards and upwards?

B C Rich?

When I first saw the pics I thought the binding was special and I vaguely recall seeing something similar on a Pensa-built creation. Pensa builds at Rudy’s Music Shop……..is that what thethe “R” refers to?

Long shot……best I can come up with at present.

Colour is a recurring question in any new acquisition (purchase or trade). If my wife likes it then it’s a green light for me on all other things. Shallow……I hear you say!
 

My wife thinks I’m colour-blind.

No, it’s not you. The quality of recent stuff is poor.
 

Another one here who drills pilot holes and uses candle wax……….but I’ve still wrung a few over in my time. It goes without saying that not all Phillips-head or Posidrive screwdrivers will correctly fit every time, thus creating yet more chance to foul it up for you.

If they snap midway it can be a pain to restore cleanly.

I’ve played most of the range of Fender basses. For me, Fender Japan puts together the most consistent instruments and they represent the best value for money. Other opinions may vary, of course.

I like the Laney Digbeth pre. For me it provides just enough, especially with a passive P bass and Markbass head. I don’t care so much for what I get from it when using active basses though. I have a BDDI in the drawer, which comes out from time to time. I’ve not tried the Nux.

It’s your bass, so go ahead if that’s what you really want to do.

Unfortunately, most of the audience and the rest of the band likely won’t give a fizz about it.

Yep. Sad to say I have it to varying degrees depending on the setting and background. When I think it’s no longer there I concentrate on it (like they all tell you you shouldn’t), and it pops right back into my consciousness. A real bugger at times.

I don’t normally like relic’d instruments………..but that looks very appealing. GLWTS.

Mine all get used. The selection comes down to the type of music being played as the usual reason for final selection. If unknown in advance, then a P bass comes along.

Nice groove and feel going on there. Thanks for sharing.

A pop up device might work under the circumstances…..and it goes without saying that the vapour levels will increase if not evacuated by some form of extraction. Best to wear an organic vapour filter mask if not being used already. Nitro vapours in high concentrations can be nasty.

Any areas that are shiny can be restored back to a matt finish by using very fine wet & dry paper (2000 grade). You wont see any scratches, especially if you use the paper dipped first in weak soapy water and keep the surface moist while working.

Is this the guy in Finland?

If it is, then I have one of his creations in a Wal style. Very nice bass.

He posted on the US bass site a good many times under the MPU name, I believe.

Just to clarify….you are looking for low profile over-the-ear headphones that receive a signal for use in monitoring and provide some attenuation. Not in ears ((iem’s) or over-the-ear noise defenders that cannot receive a signal.

If you do not have access to above solutions, an aluminium soda pop can is a possible substitute. Cut some strips and use in an emergency.

1 hour ago, brickers said:

and I’ve GOT to get rid of that terrible shape…

This would be the most important thing on my list........being the totally shallow creature that I am.

I had a Fender American Professional I 5 string P bass for a while. Not a bad bass. The string spacing suits a switch from 4 string to 5 string and the neck feels very comfortable. I added a string retainer to the B string, which seemed to tighten the sound. The pickups as supplied were a bit "meh", so I switched to a 5 string Quarter Pounder.

Absolutely stunning!