Bridgehouse

Just now, discreet said:

There is one on my Hayman 4040. I like them, they eliminate any possible nut problems and faffing about with nut files, etc.

They can wear out quicker tho - specially if they are the same material as your other frets, and you use rounds. Over time you will get little ruts. I looked at a 60s bass with a zero fret and it's intonation was all over the shop - the zero feet looked like the Lake District..

Really odd discussion for me.

It's a sound you can use. And so I use it. Sometimes when writing bass lines I will consciously choose an open string rather than fretted equivalent for the sound/flow/feel

It's a tool in the toolbag and I don't see why you wouldn't use it. Right tool for the right job etc..

41 minutes ago, Didg said:

Bridgehouse, what powered speaker cab do you use and can you use it for backline when not going through the PA?

A cab that could be used for backline and also a wedge monitor would be ideal.

QSC K10.2 - the 12.2 might suit you better

Powered wedge (nominally 2000w peak) with 3 inputs and DSP for profiling.

Can be used for backline, monitoring, and a combination. For proper backline I'd use a pair and you could use stereo effects

To answer your original question tho - they only look right with those vintage bridges and threaded saddles...

11 minutes ago, drlargepants said:

It’s the sound though really. You just can’t get that P sound with anything else. 

I play in what is basically a blues band, and the P just works so well in that environment. 

 

 

My band is Americana/rock/singer songwriter and it works just as well in that context too

5 minutes ago, drlargepants said:

Note to self, don’t by a pre CBS P lol !

Not unless you really love the way they play

Just now, drlargepants said:

That’s the one, micro thin frets, small radius board, silly truss road adjustment etc 

I have a 60s P obsession from listening and watching early 70s era Queen as a kid. 

I didn’t take into account my Homer Simpson hands when I bought it !

 

 

You'd be even more disappointed with a real one. My 64 is 45mm nut, slim front to back, skinny vintage frets, 7.25 radius.. 

Sounds exactly like you expect/remember though.. quite quite exquisite. 

I do understand the neck dimensions don't suit everyone tho..

1 minute ago, drlargepants said:

Nut width. Big front to back I actually like. 

I think I’ve exacerbated it by putting flats on it, which I’m not that used to playing with, so at the moment it gathers dust sadly. 

Big nut width, big string spacing, stubby hands. Not a great combo. 

So it's a 45mm with flats on it? Cor. Perfect for me

I've had a quick go on a avri and was impressed..

1 minute ago, drlargepants said:

Lol :-) 

thanks for all the pointers. 

Im not sure I like the neck enough to mess around with the bridge., it’s just too big for me. 

Its a shame. It’s an incredible sounding bass. 

Big front to back or nut width?

If the latter, then that's how they were in the early 60s! I love them

5 minutes ago, yorks5stringer said:

Nice, I guess being a solid colour then it does not require stripping down to bare wood?

Mine was a bare body when I got it.. it's sprayed in nitro

^ The master hath spoken

@Al Krow - spot on with the Ampeg. Great clean tones - lovely Preamp. Drive is a shambles.

Really want to try the VTDI and really liking the look of the Dave Hall one too.

Have tried the subway DI - I liked it. I might try one. 

I want to try the EBS microbass too..

Great list tho

13 minutes ago, Didg said:

FRFR?

Full range flat response - powered speaker cab 

15 minutes ago, dmccombe7 said:

You can't plan for stupid 

It's an occupational hazard for me

Had a festival this summer. 

Quick turnaround time to get on. 

Had all my stuff ready to go..

Plugged everything in - no sound. Nada. Nothing.

5 mins panicking and then...

..realised I'd plugged into a different amp that wasn't even mine. Oh, you didn't mean that sort of disaster tho huh? 

Would threaded saddles not give you enough adjustment?

If not, then yes a Hipshot A or Kickass would do the trick and the mounting holes are the same.

You would only be excommunicated if you wanted to swap the bridge out on an original 62 P bass

When I did a 51P build I did mine...

...Surf Green!!! And I love it! It certainly gets noticed!

1 hour ago, Jimothey said:

I think I’ll stick to the cotton!?!, when it comes to applying a decal is it the same as if I was using lacquer put the first coat on then flatten it, apply the decal then carry on with a couple more coats, lightly sanding between each coat? 

There's lots of tutorials online about tru oil. Personally I don't do a huge amount of sanding in between coats - tru oil isn't like lacquer - the coats don't merge they stay seaparate and you can get funny lines and marks. It's also very easy to sand through. 

My favoured technique is to wet sand with the oil - it creates a slurry and fills in grain, holes etc. Once you have a good solid base on after a number of coats I would apply thin coats with no sanding in between. It builds up the finish.

Very thin coats - less drying time - hardens well and with patience you can get a lacquer like gloss shine

I just went FRFR to do exactly this.

No separate head or cab to cart about - 14kg, plenty of volume, convenient wedge shape so it's a proper monitor, and you can even have a normal monitor feed in as well.

I now find myself looking at lots of different Preamp DI pedals and thinking "wonder what that one would sound like?"

10 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

Which method is best for applying it a polishing mop or lightly brush it on? 

A ball of lint free cotton is good, and strangely so are fingers... bit messy but good tho

24 minutes ago, Jimothey said:

Yeah I think that’s what I’ll do, so it’s not too dark I’ll probably use American Walnut or maybe Mahogany first then sand it back, If it comes out the way I hope I’m going to use tru oil to finish the guitar, I’ve never used it before so what size bottle should I go for? Would the 8oz bottle be enough for 3/4 coats of the body and a couple of coats on the neck?

But if it comes out a bit s**t then I can paint it instead 

8oz will do way more than 3 or 4 coats - you need to go for light coats anyway

23 minutes ago, Meddle said:

For those considering Chromes, have you tried Jim Dunlop flats? I use them on a couple of basses. The black silks fray quite easily, which is annoying, but beyond that they sound a wee bit mellower than Chromes, are better tonally balanced out the packet and bed in quicker than Chromes as well. And they're about a fiver cheaper or so. 

I have tried a set - kept them on a bass for a while. After settling I would say Chromes are about the same tonally (not at first tho!)

I didn't like the feel of the Jim Dunlops as much tho - just didn't seem as slick

34 minutes ago, discreet said:

Maybe I'll give Chromes another go... But I do love the sound and feel of LaBella 760FM. Obviously I need to buy another bass and fit Chromes to it...

That's the spirit

Just now, fretmeister said:

Interesting.

I've got the DXR10 and I'm really happy with it.

 

As it happens though I think  (about 90% decided) that I'm going to stick with my Barefaced cabs for bass use and power them with my tiny Tecamp Puma 300. Total weight is lower as the Puma is only 2.2 lb.

 

I don't play out anywhere on guitar so I'll get some good desktop monitors instead.

I tried the DXR10 first and it sounded great. I was ready to get my money out.

Then the guy said "Try the k10.2"

Grrrr