Bridgehouse

5 minutes ago, Osiris said:

I've only ever gigged mine with my 4 ohm 2x12 but even in the rehearsal room with my 8 ohm 1x12 it has never lacked for volume, and that's with a 5 piece band including drums, keys and guitar. I guess it depends on the situation you want to use it in? Unless you're doing anything at extreme volume I think it ought to fine particularly with a Barefaced cab which are notoriously efficient. 

5 piece. Drums, bass, guitar, keys and singer who usually plays acoustic - so yeah. For monitoring it should be fine. 

I notice the 350 has an aux in (not FX return) - is it's volume controlled by the master volume?

Yeah - it is - doesn't mark quite as easily!

5 minutes ago, discreet said:

Having stumbled across paulownia and Ultralites and put together a 7lb Jazz more or less by accident, I'm not going back to 9lb basses!

Never gave it much thought, but a light bass is just so much nicer, for many reasons.

Obeche is another wood for lightness - I did a telecaster out of it which came out about 6lbs

Just over 8lbs is about my limit for comfort..

2 minutes ago, discreet said:

That's what I thought, but with no f-hole or anything to show it's not a solid bass.

I'm going to go with an f-hole on this one to keep the thinline tele vibe - but to be honest it's an aesthetic thing - it wouldn't sound much different if it didn't have the f-hole and just looked like a solid body

I am aiming for 7lbs. Anything under that and I'll be very amazed. 

1 minute ago, discreet said:

Aye, there's the rub... ha, ha, ha! Ahem. 

That pic is very intriguing... presumably you could cap it so as to present a 'normal'  bass to the world, but much lighter..?

That's the idea. Just like a thinline Tele, but a P bass. It will be a swamp ash body with a swamp ash cap. 

There's two reasons I want to try this:

- lighter weight

- capture some of the hollow body tone (hopefully!)

I'm slightly concerned that the Mag 350 into my 8ohm Barefaced might be a touch quiet, but I don't know. 

Made a start on the plate and fittings..

Jack socket and pots on. Popped the knobs on (but they need aging at some point.)

Thought I had enough pickguard screws but I'm three short (d'oh!) - will have to order another pack. 

Tonight I will have a look at darkening the board. 

I've developed a method for my gigging.. I'm finding I get the best mix of sounds if I use either a DI/Preamp pedal or Helix DI to front of house, with an amp and cab for monitoring.

Usually I use my EICH T-1000 either into the Vanderkley or barefaced cab. 

For backup I have a Markbass LM III, but I know that the fx loop is before the Preamp. So, I would like to either swap it or sell it and then get a similar spec'd amp (500+ watts) with power amp in (FX return directly into power amp) 

I could get a poweramp but I don't want to go rackmount and I want to keep the size and weight down. Budget in the 4-500 quid new, and less used range.

Looked at the Peavey Minimax, Hartke 600w job, and a few others.

Suggestions from the crowd?

8 minutes ago, RichardH said:

Yes, they say ash is one of the best woods for burning...

Nobody has ever said my bass playing is smokin'

24 minutes ago, wateroftyne said:

Noted... Thank you...

Do be prepared for a long old chinwag tho. David doesn't do quick in and out sales...

22 hours ago, wateroftyne said:

No... his prices are a little rich for my liking.

Oh, there's Nick's Guitars in Wetherby, too. Not much in at the moment, but sometimes has some nice stuff.

I've bought from David before...

Its worth noting that his advertised prices are not what you usually end up paying

David likes a good haggle and a robust negotiation. He would be disappointed that he'd not enjoyed himself enough if you left paying the advertised price...

1 minute ago, Andyjr1515 said:

Yes - lovely   Can't wait...

Nor me

Going to be a slightly slower burn is this one 

1 hour ago, Andyjr1515 said:

I can see the picture now I'm back on the desktop - it looks great!

Now imagine that as a 51P shape in ash with a f hole cut and a trad single coil slot and no guard.. that's where I'm heading

1 hour ago, charic said:

Eh?

I was on mobile, and the main link logo disappeared for about 10 mins.. most odd

Who deleted the logo on the top of the page then?

15 minutes ago, SpondonBassed said:

I never enjoyed watching paint dry so much before!  Well done.

Ha! You clearly enjoyed it more than I did! 

I'll get some daylight shots at the weekend - it looks better in real colours rather than indoor lights

Just now, Tech21NYC said:

Is it just me, but I find this new site very difficult to read. I've increased size to 110% and compared with TalkBass and some other forums and the text is on the faint side. Not everyone is a millennial with 20 something eyes. This is text from another forum "Any opinions, thoughts, or first hand experiences would be welcome!"

On my mobile, the quoted text looks smaller, but with a light blue background highlight...

15v??

That looked really interesting, and then I saw the  voltage. Ugh.

52 minutes ago, Marc S said:

One that always makes me chuckle is;
"There's a slight problem with the tone pot / jack socket / earth wire (delete as appropriate) - but this is an easy fix"

....  so why haven't you fixed it???

Because:

"Selling because of new baby. I literally now don't have time to do anything for myself at all. I feel guilty if I scratch for more than 10 seconds"

Trying to photograph any of the checking is bloomin' hard!

Here it is as a whole (ignore the colour as it's house lighting):

If you look really closely you can see some of the checking.. 

But.. under closer inspection..

Overall, I'm happy with it now, I think. Any more and it would be overkill and just wouldn't look genuine.

Lessons learned:

- Let the lacquer harden!

- Heat and cold. Heat and cold. Heat and cold. Rinse and repeat

- Patience!

- Black shoe polish makes great false dirt for cracks

- Mrs B doesn't like it when she can't fit the peas in the freezer..

Scratchplate screws next, and some electrics. Oh, and I ought to get some pickups really... anyone got a cheap P or J that might work with this?

2 minutes ago, ped said:

Good question! It looks like something to do with reviewing/previewing formatting but not sure. Will have a look! Thanks!

No probs - been pressing it, scratching my head, pressing again and then shrugging for some time now 

BTW - ignore the naysayers - great upgrade and some really good new features..

Tough crowd.

It's a free to use forum, guys... 

I was getting a load of errors all over the shop, but now it's as speedy as the whole site - no errors for at least 6 hours.

Just a quick question - on the mobile interface, what's the page with magnifying glass icon for on the toolbar of the editor for? If I click on it nothing seems to happen....

Just by way of example, here's some pics of the chrome parts on my 1964 Precision. 

Note the saddles and screws on the bridge are quite clearly not chrome

On 13/11/2017 at 16:36, yorks5stringer said:

It's Chrome which seemed to work on the Youtube tutorials using Muriatic acid (which is US speak for Hydrochloric). Do you have a different method for Chrome please?

You can rough it up first and try ferric chloride, but the reality is that even on real vintage stuff chrome pits but never really dulls (it gets scratched which can look similar)

If you want the real aged look you need to go with nickel parts

Still quite subtle.. but the front face is crazing quite nicely now..