bass_ferret

one mans best is another mans sh*te. Stupid thing to say really!

Just because you cant do it is no reason to put a technique down

[quote name='chris_b' post='402813' date='Feb 7 2009, 02:09 PM']This seems to be another statement that is being used so often that it is blindly taken to be true.
If this is true how has the whole world of rock has been choosing and buying amps like this for over 50 years without too much trouble? I have always made my judgements in the shop and I've never had a problem on a gig because I chose the wrong amp or cab. I'm never that lucky so the sound in the shop must have a bearing on the live sound!
With some bands playing so much louder these days the shop vs live argument might be relevant, but if you aren't loud I don't see why shop vs live should be so out of step.[/quote]
Here he goes again!

It is very simple and indeed pertinent to the subject under discussion. Volume. You are never going to use gigging volumes in a music shop. I can confirm this from my own personal experience. I had an EBS mini stack and I know that at larger venues it farted out. But when I did an A/B against the Genz Benz cabs I use now, in two different shops, we could not get the volume up to a level where the EBS farted.

[quote name='BeLow' post='402592' date='Feb 7 2009, 08:20 AM']a 1x15 would also be ok if you wanted to be more bass focused.[/quote]
No it would not. It might be, but the only way to find out is to try one at a gig, cos in a shop wont tell you anything.

Sorry, I do sometimes get carried away when confronted with ignorance and stupidy presented as good advice. Yes a 300 watt combo even if it only pushing out 180 watts without an extension cab should be loud enough, but may not be if loaded with inefficient speakers. Or it could be faulty. Or it could be the gain is set too low because of Ashdowns notoriously unreliable VU meter. Or it could be the users EQ settings.

[quote name='Buzz' post='402532' date='Feb 7 2009, 12:15 AM']While I'm here, Ferret, weren't you going to get a fretted counterpart for your black stealth fretless at one point?[/quote]
Got a white one on order.

[quote name='LWTAIT' post='402500' date='Feb 6 2009, 11:34 PM']i just feel that he has made so many much nicer looking, and much more original looking, basses than a blue jazz bass copy, and if you look at those links i put up, im sure youll agree with me. im not saying its an ugly bass, but its just a fender copy.[/quote]
Look at what is being played by bands on the telly and on your local pub curcuit. I bet there are a lot more people that would buy that than a singlecut tabletop. IMO

[quote name='bassmansky' post='402374' date='Feb 6 2009, 08:56 PM']a 300w 2x10 combo should be loud enough for most small ,medium size gigs.as suggested try it against another one .[/quote]
Which part of its only 300W with an extension cab did you not understand?

Sorry but a custom bass can also be about playing and sounding fantastic. Look at my GB's. A lot of you get hung up on the fancy woods but does that affect the sound and playability? No.

Some good advice here. EQ wise the mids are your friend if you boost them instead of cutting like lots do. Does the amp have a pre-shape or contour switch? If it does, turn it off.

If you go changing drivers you will invalidate the warranty.

A matching 2x10 extension is probably the best option as it will give you more volume and raise the top cab up. Often using two cabs the same they will couple acoustically and you will get more than the sum of the parts. If you use different cabs you can get phase cancellation issues and you wont get the sum of the parts. But some people like the sound of this but it probably wont give you as much extra volume as using 2 cabs the same.

And of course retailers would never dream of selling stock they bought at the old prices for the new prices

Why should it make any difference if the bass is active?

Some flats dont like through body stringing though but the TI Jazz Flats I use have been OK so far.

Some interesting points here. If you want more than 6 strings then your choice is limited as a lot of builders just wont do it. Maybe they think its a feak show? Rob Green is not going to get a 7 string graphite neck made for the few he is going to sell.

Maybe my GB's dont look like what they cost, but trust me they play and sound like it. What's important at the end of the day is what determines our choices.

I never suffer from nerves but we are all different. Did my first paid gig when I was 15 and had a guiness before we went on. Worked for me ever since. I have even been known to have a J before we went on in some of the real shitholes we played.

You just have to learn to live with how you are as a performer. If you get nerves learn how to cope; if you dont get nerves you are lucky.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='400244' date='Feb 4 2009, 05:59 PM']A related question: Do those of you with really expensive basses actually gig them? I don't think I'd want to take a bass worth £1000+ out to a pub gig.

I suppose with vintage gear it's a bit different, because I wouldn't mind if it picked up a few scrapes, but a shiny new quilt-topped thing with matching wood knobs wouldn't look too clever with big dings in it.[/quote]
Thats why I like solid colours and not furniture basses. I dont care if they do get some battle scars. Hell the red one is even painted with cellulose

[url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=128"]see this thread[/url]

And they both get gigged all the time.

Aguillar DB750?

Or if you fancy something a little easier on the back:

[quote name='budget bassist' post='397112' date='Feb 1 2009, 07:07 PM']I've always loved onboard preamps, nothing too complicated, and you can't use things like coil tap and series/parallel switches on an outboard preamp (though do you need to have a preamp in your bass to do it?) they're relatively inexpensive anyway, and if you get an active/passive switch installed, it's just added versatility, and you could always get an outboard preamp too to compliment it. Personally, i've found a 2 band onboard pre (3 band would be nicer) and the 5 band amp EQ enough (though i would like a 7 band graphic) to be just about enough, though obviously it's about what you feel comfortable with.[/quote]
Coil taps and series/parallel switches have nothing to do with pre-amps, they are a function of the pickups.

[quote name='Blink' post='397509' date='Feb 2 2009, 07:53 AM']I have a GS410 and use a MarkBass Little Mark and it sounds great. I regularly gig in a 6 piece band, with no pa support, and the combination is plenty loud enough with the volume at 4!!!!!!! I have used the Little Mark with the GS412 in a Shop (Bass Merchant) and it sounded good but I could not crank up the volume.

Nick[/quote]
Here we go again! The delicious irony of Spinal Tap, who are louder than any other band cos all their amps go up to 11, is that so many basschatters think it is significant.

Aguillar!

I dont have much of an opinion on MB other than the amps appear to be more popular than the cabs. There is already an identical thread running so it might be worth trying the search facility.

It depends. There are good and bad onboard pre-amps and good and bad outboard. Onboard needs a cavity for the circuit and battery. The East preamps are designed to fit into the existing Jazz route. The very best outboard pre's such as EBS Microbass II have far more options and facilities than an onboard can ever have, but they cost a lot.

When I started playing bass cabs rarely had tweeters - now they all do. After my last hearing test that showed the frequency response of my ears takes a dive above 2KHz I can hardly hear a difference between on and off.

Are we paying extra for our cabs for a solution to a problem that does not really exist?