lowrentdiscographer

Development: On Friday evening my guitarists' car wouldn't start after work and he REALLY had toget home asap, so I ran him home. The following day i picked him up and we jumped his car and all was well. Anyway as a thank-you he presented me with a BEQ700 pedal which even with zero dialling in time did a fair job of giving me a bit more mid punch at last night's rehearsal.

That's the one. Not a gigging bassist... yet.

It's the lesser 500 I have. I think it only gives 350ish because I've got it powering a single 8ohm 1x15 But still, good advice, ta. Fuzzy & Baloney, I'll try playing with the amp EQs a bit more. Ta.

Yeah, but, guitarists...

Hey everybody! Long story long... So the last two basses I've used have been lower-end jap jobs with active electronics. I've been rehearsing with a dad-band playing mostly alternative 90s and 00s alternative rock stuff. My nan left me a little bit of money so about a month ago I bought myself a mexican p bass which is passive. My first bass was a Westfield p copy and I always thought I might get a real one someday. Anyway, unlike my active Ibanez and Yamaha, the way the tone knob seems to work is that it just cuts the treble? It doesn't seem to boost the bass, you just lose the twang. The problem I've got is that after setting a tone I like with the knob set at roughly between 1/2 and 2/3 rolled off I'm losing myself in the mix when playing up the neck, past A on the D an G strings. We're rehearsing at Pirate studios using their gear so I'm playing through an Ashdown amp that has got way more switches and knobs than my own Hartke LH. I'm using the same amp settings as I was for the other basses which is fairly flat across the board. I'm otherwise playing fairly clean, I take a tuner pedal and a kit-built fuzz which is set quite tame and is usually off. A good example of what's happening is when we play The Offspring's Self Esteem. I can hear myself fine in the first half of the verse, to be expected as I'm alone with the drummer, but when the (crunchy) guitars come in in the second part of the verse, I disappear from my ears. This wasn't happening with my Ibanez. The chorus, where the bass is down on the lower notes is fine. As a certified skinflint I'm thinking of chucking 20-something quid at the Behringer preamp... would it help? Thanks in advance. Steve.

My 2... pbass, black on black, roasted maple neck. Ibanez srx360. Also have an old Yamaha RB-something-bobby-basic but that's not black... Some really nice gear on here.

Found my build thread, images have disappeared though...

Well, that's not strictly true, I'm a long-time dabbler and I think I've been a member on here before - I built a 15 inch EV cab in 2009-ish with the help of you guys (at least I think it was you guys and not the 'other' guys) and I arranged getting a few professional lessons through recommendations on the forum... I'm back mainly because I've got a bit of a dad-band going on (early stages, and obviously C19 is making that difficult) and I've recently taken ownership of a new-to-me Mexican P bass (which I'll add to the black bass thread when I get a minute). You might get some music/playing out of me at some point but it's fair to say the Wooten's and Hamm's of the world won't be worried! Anyways, hello again, again. Steve.

[quote name='BigRedX' post='430370' date='Mar 10 2009, 12:36 PM']My favourite was from the manual that came with the Yamaha CP70/80 electric grand pianos from the late 70s /early 80s. Those of you who remember these instruments will also know that these instruments split into separate parts to make them slightly more easy to transport. In the manual one of the diagrams showed how to fit the legs showing the end of one of the tubular legs and it's socket with a arrow indicating a rotating motion. Next to the arrow was the word F**K. What they meant of course was "screw"... Unfortunately although a web search reveals that PDFs of these manuals are available for download all the ones I've seen have since been corrected, but I can assure you having seen and actual printed manual for myself that at one point this was true.[/quote] Class. S.

Bumpetty Update Thing. I've been 'using' Nick for about 6 months now, and I just thought I'd say a few words on the experience so far. There's plenty on this thread already that tells you how highly rated Nick is by those who use him, so I'll just make the point that yes he is that good. By far the biggest plus point for me was and still is his ability to not make me feel stupid/uncomfortable/rubbish. Other than that he puts alot into his planning and prep, whilst remaining adaptable and flexible, but still ensuring progress is made. He is genuinely interested in seeing you develop as a player and not just getting you through the grade books. He's also really good from a 'coaching' point of view, helping you make the best of what you've got and working on what you haven't, rather than letting you get hung up about it. (From the start he pointed out that whilst I might be struggling with the theory on my own, I had a strong sense of rhythm, and feel, in my right hand (his words sic), which was some nice positive feedback to get early on. Before starting with Nick I thought I'd always be a bit rubbish and was feeling a bit low about playing bass in general. Now I enjoy playing more, I'm more optimistic/confident, and I'm endeavouring to get more involved in playing with other musicians. If you are considering lessons and are in his locality I would reccomend him in an instant. He's easily good enough to warrant the drive up from Manchester. S.

[quote name='ped' post='412923' date='Feb 18 2009, 12:21 PM']If you have the facilities, why not try some online collaboration. I have recorded a few parts for songs via Kompoz.com and it is really good fun... ped[/quote] I have a Line6 Toneport UX1? How does this idea work, do you record in realtime? Dou you get feedback straight away? S.

[quote name='Musky' post='410897' date='Feb 16 2009, 11:32 AM']+1 I don't know what Manchester is like but I regularly see ads for musicians who just want to jam on the London Gumtree. If you don't see any ads that fit the bill just put your own in. Edit: [url="http://manchester.gumtree.com/manchester/48/34542448.html"]Like this ad.[/url][/quote] Hyde's not too far from me either... S.

Lots of quick and decisive replies. Cheers guys, will keep on it. Been surfing and found there's a specialist drumshop in Stockport a stone's-throw from where I work, maybe that's a good place for an ad? S.

Howdy. My query is like this: I want to play with other musicians, regularly, but casually. At this moment in time I don't want to form a 'band' as such, I want to play with a drummer and guitar and/or keys, from the perspective of improving myself. All the ad's in the performance section are 'super duper bassist available for pro gigs i know every song ever written' or 'band seeking bassist to perform our very established and not to be messed with formula, you must be ready to gig yesterday'. I don't really fit in with, or even aspire to, these things. But I'm getting bored trying to play along with songs on my stereo/ipod/youtube. Most importantly Iwant to work on the bass/drums timing and feel relationship. I'm taking lessons, and I am coming along a bit, but I don't feel confident enough to jump in at some kind of open jam night, and would prefer to be able to chat with the other musicians about what we're doing, rather than have someone show me 4 fingers and just sink or swim. I've looked on partysounds and musicians-in-your-city but all the ad's follow similar lines. Is this a problem common only to me? How did other BCers manage the asencion from bedroom/study to playing with others? S.

[quote name='chris_b' post='409351' date='Feb 14 2009, 12:24 PM']How heavy? Looks like a good set of wheels is needed.[/quote] I've not weighed it, safe to say I'm glad it's got 2 H/Duty handles.

[quote name='Paul S' post='409306' date='Feb 14 2009, 11:06 AM']Dumb question here with no underlying agenda. Why? Cheaper? Or better built to your own spec? Or just because you wanted to?[/quote] All of the above! I'd say the cab Cost about 130-150 quid, if you buy new that's the absoloute budget end of 1 X 15's. It's not built to my own spec as such, the plans are linked in the DIY cabs sticky, although I have made a few changes. Also, I did kinda just want too, it's MY cab and MY setup, y'know?

[quote name='Prosebass' post='408918' date='Feb 13 2009, 06:55 PM']Nice work and very professional looking. Its good to see people on here with skills getting stuck in Paul [/quote] Cheers. S

[quote name='stevie' post='408635' date='Feb 13 2009, 02:30 PM']Nice job! It's always good to see how easily you can put a cabinet together that will outperform most of the shop-bought product. Just a couple of comments. I seem to recall that EV provides two alternative tunings. You should use the lower of the two, at about 45Hz, as this will increase power handling. I've sprayed steel punched grilles with Plastikote or Hammerite black spray paint. It goes on without an undercoat, looks very professional, and is quite tough. It should work on your aluminium grille.[/quote] Thanks for your feedback Stevie. I've just checked and open E is 41 hz (correct?), so I guess I should use the cover as the specs say the usable lower limit is 45hz without, 39hz with. That being the case, should I attach it permanently then I can guarantee an airtight seal? With regards to grilles, I'm hoping to source something steel that's 1.5/2mm and a bit more holey, iykwim. I'm also thinking about geting some graphics/artwork on there, not branding, but someting cool. And maybe work out a better way of mounting it than some cheapo penny washers! A lad at work suggested that I should get 'Stevey' drawn up in the same font as Peavey. I am also called Steven y'see! S.

Title says it all really. The cab is a 1 X 15 built using the EV TL606 plans (see DIY cabs sticky) as a guide, but with a couple of mod's. Some of the pic's have been re-ordered into a logical build order... :blush: I've been asking a few questions about cab-building, I thought I should maybe just get stuck in... Base and ports glued: [attachment=20170:Picture_010.jpg] And screwed. All mating surfaces are joined with pva wood glue and 3.5 X 35mm wood screws. An excess of glue was applied to ensure airtight-ness off the joints. [attachment=20174:Picture_012.jpg] The front and rear 'frames' are mitred, the fore/aft runners are not. Mock up laid out on it's side: [attachment=20175:Picture_027.jpg] In the above pics' you can see the main difference between the EV plans and my cab; the port top has been extended to sit flush with the front edge of the top and side panels. I've no idea if this will affect the cabs performance plus or minus, I did it for purely aesthetic reasons, likewise the front edge of the outside port cleats... More gloop... [attachment=20176:Picture_028.jpg] The sides, back, and roof will be lined, but that leaves the inside face of the base bare and woody. I felt some dampening may be in order, so I troweled on some very rubberey roof and gutter sealant. Again I have no idea if this will be good or bad... [attachment=20177:Picture_032.jpg] Have carpet will, er, carpet. This is B&Q value cord carpet, with the felt backing peeled off (which came off really easily!) [attachment=20178:Picture_036.jpg] You probably noticed the handles are on. I neglected to photograph any of that happening. However I did snap a lovely bit of weathersrip, mid-application stylee. The back of the cab should never have to come off, but if it does, this allows an airtight seal (fingers crossed) without glue... [attachment=20180:Picture_041.jpg] So it's covered and the excess is trimmed off. Time to call the undertakers... "And it is [i]just the head[/i], you say?" [attachment=20181:Picture_044.jpg] OK, now i failed to capture anything else significant until I'd finished. And this includes fitting the baffle, trimming the front, and mounting the speaker. In fact I had to take the grille off again to take this... [attachment=20183:Picture_047.jpg] And finally with the grille on, and my new LH500 perched atop (this pic preceeds the previous pic, iykwim). The grille is 3mm ally. It was an offcut from a local engineering shop, and it shows, so I'll have to sort out something a bit newer and steelier to replace it. [attachment=20184:Picture_046.jpg] It sounds, to my ears, well good. Although my experience of amps stops at an Aria AB50 combo, so I'm no judge I guess. I'm happy with it. Also, within the confines of my small 'study' (read "small room where all my 5h1te is kept") the volume control has been used in increments best described as fractions. The speaker is an Eminence Kappa 15 8 ohm so the rig would currently be worth around 350 watts. The amp's rated at 500W at 4. Watch this space... S. ps to all those who told me that the cab would be very heavy if built in MDF. You Were Right. pps I have, since the last photo's were taken, trimmed the front edges of the inner port cleats with carpet, to match the rest of the cab...

Cheers guys. Cab is nearing completion so I will put a short build post up when its done... S.

It looked like this... [i]"Howdy Builders, Following in from a recent thread I started but am far to lazy to find and link, I have nearly finished construction of an Electrovoice 15 as shown earlier in this thread. As it's oh-so-nearly finished I've been on a spending spree and purchased a Hartke LH500 head (hopefully arriving tomorrow if Mr Delivery Man can get through the snow), an Eminence Kappa 15 (450 @ 8 ohm), and a few other bits and pieces to finish it off, but I think to be fair the cab itself is not as well constructed as it might have been blush.gif . This is at odds with the rest of the project as the speaker and amp are a couple of tiers 'up' from what I'd originally planned. So I'm thinking about writing off the £12.00 of ply offcuts that I've not yet paid my Dad for, and starting again, but I have a couple of (well actually 4) questions... How would the cab be effected if I were to construct it from MDF, what are the pro's and cons, as far as the finished product goes? How would the cab be effected if I were to use thinner material (ply or MDF)? Should I keep the internal dimensions the same, or work to the external volume and use the extra internal space to allow for a coulpe of internal braces (any tips on placement?) Would it be detrimental if I were to extend the front edge of the 'port top' to bring it flush with the front-face edge of the cab? (For purely aesthetic reasons, I want to cover the baffle and speaker with flat grille, flush to the front, but have the ports 'on show' a-la some of the modern 'boutique-style' cabs) I've bought some B&Q recycled plastic loft insulation to line it with, it's very dense and very fluffy (technical, I know wink.gif ) but its also quite thick (expands to 'up to 150mm). Will this occupy 'too much' of the internal space, or is this an issue I'm inventing? I was thinking maybe a few well placed staples could keep it in check? Many thanks, Steve." [/i] ... and is in the DIY cabs thread. Sorry. S.

Following on from here: [post="0"]My DIY Cab Post[/post] (hope the link works) A shiny new plaything arrived by courier today. Trouble is, I currently have no finished cab. I'm in a bit of a dilemma; throw the speaker in the original half-arsed cab just so I can have a play and a listen, or get my sorry ass to work and produce a cab that's worthy? I've already had to endure 8 hours of work with nothing but the instuction manual to sate me :wacko: ! S.

[quote name='51m0n' post='398087' date='Feb 2 2009, 05:08 PM']Another vote for the Ibanez sr300 Got one of these [url="http://www.ibanez.com/BassGuitars/model-SR300M"]Ibanez sr300[/url] for a female friend as her starting bass, and its amazing the tone is fine, the action is great (admit I did have to tweak it abit though), but it weighs nothing, and is so incredibly slim and ergonomically well sorted, its no wonder she's loving playing and really turning into a super bassist. My first bass was utter $@*& in comparison![/quote] Mmm SR300M in pearl white... I got a Yam RX. It's well ace-ish. S.