escholl

[quote name='solo4652' post='878089' date='Jun 26 2010, 12:47 PM']Thank you for providing the explanation - and also for providing a translation of it! The faulty cable is now in the bin. I've ordered a new one.

Steve[/quote]

You're welcome! If it's not too late, you may want to just quickly cut the Neutrik connectors off the ends -- they will be fine, and it's always good to have some spares.

Have you tried checking the line or DI out, if it has one? Could help narrow down where the issue is.

[quote name='solo4652' post='876941' date='Jun 24 2010, 10:37 PM']It happens all the time with my passive Fender P (but only with the Van Damme/Neutrik lead). With my G&L, it only happens when the bass is switched to passive (again, only with the Van Damme/Neutrik lead). When the G&L is switched to active, I don't get the movement noise with either lead.[/quote]


Right, I thought that might be the case. What is happening is when your bass is in passive mode, it is acting as a high impedance source. The following is from [url="http://www.procosound.com/downloads/whitepapers/Understanding%20Microphone%20Cables.pdf"]this[/url] source:
[quote]The triboelectric effect that causes impact-related “slapping” noise as the cable hits the stage or is stepped
upon during use is related to capacitance, specifically the change in capacitance that takes place as the insulation
or dielectric is deformed. This causes it to behave as a crude piezoelectric transducer, a relative of an electret
condenser microphone. Because such transducers are extremely high-impedance sources, the drastic impedance
mismatch presented by a low-impedance microphone and its preamp or input transformer makes the extraneous
noise generated by triboelectric effects negligible except in cases involving very low-level signals.[/quote]
Basically, the cable itself acts as a microphone, but only when connected to a high impedance at each end, ie your amp and passive bass. When your bass is in active mode, it effectively creates a low impedance at one end of the cable, thus reducing the effect to negligible levels -- hence why it only happens with your passive bass.

As for why it only happens with that cable, it is entirely down to the construction of that cable. How old is the cable? Has it always done this?

[quote name='Lifer' post='877254' date='Jun 25 2010, 11:32 AM']I quite tempted by the programmable 3 ch one, is it the same internals in a different box?[/quote]
I love my three channel one, I think it's basically the same thing without the parallel out. No mid control, but you can more or less get round that by clever use of the EQ and blend knobs, just like the original -- I run quite a mid heavy sound, and have never had an issue. Everything is stored as a preset, so once you set it up, that's it, you're done. It's also really well built, a great sounding DI, and sound guys love it.

[quote name='51m0n' post='877192' date='Jun 25 2010, 10:19 AM']Does that make more sense?[/quote]

I knew what you meant, I think I'm the one who didn't explain myself very well. It's ok, as you say either way works -- I was really just playing about to satisfy my curiosity. Besides, that focusrite unit you've got there is one of my personal favourites, so, it must be doing something right!

Sounds like the overload protection might have kicked in, or there are a few other reasons why it might have done that, but I wouldn't worry too much about it to be honest. If it happens again or becomes a regular thing, then you may want to consider having it looked at, but most amps are pretty robust, they can take a bit of a thrashing.


There's a chance it could actually be a dry joint in the amp itself, I had a similar thing happen to me with an ampeg combo, stuttered now and again a few times then cut out completely -- thought I'd broken it. Turns out the vibrations had just wiggled loose an already poor solder joint in the amp itself.

You should be ok, really


I'm not sure the little ashdown 15 is going to make a huge difference, because I don't know what the EBS is like. But, I used to have an Ashdown P10 mini rig, which is the same preamp as the 5:15, into a 60W power section, into 2 1x10 cabs -- that thing had quite a kick to it! And it was really robust, I thrashed it for at least a year, and it never so much as hiccuped. I'd imagine the 5:15 will do you well

[quote name='51m0n' post='877004' date='Jun 25 2010, 12:04 AM']Hmmm according to the manual the Wave R-Comp has a built in L1 style limiter built in to the output, so its not the right tool to use to play with this, as its trying to automate this for you. ANy attempt to push it hard enough to emulate what I'm sayiing and you will be distorting the output.[/quote]
Right, well, the point is that if it's clipping the built-in limiter, it's going to clip any output stage -- only with the possibility of distortion. In this sense the RComp works perfectly fine. It might not be the conventional way, but really, try it, it works very well.

Do you use a passive bass?

[quote name='51m0n' post='876139' date='Jun 24 2010, 09:11 AM']No you cant. Because you've set the attack nice and long to allow the leading edge of the note through, giving you maximum punch.

Remember the attack is the time AFTER the threshold is crossed that the compressor engages. So if you set that long enopugh to allow the attack through, crank your ratio and dip you threshold to get a really nice pumping compression, once you wind up the make-up gain then if you' over hit' a note you will get a massive spike just before the compressor kicks in. Thats when you need a limiter, to catch those, nothing else.

Even if you dip the compresor threshold more it doesnt make any real difference since the attack is wide enough to mean the that leading edge is nolonger being caught (deliberately) by the compressor.[/quote]

Ok, so, to satisfy my own curiosity, I had a bit of a play around this afternoon with a previously recorded bass guitar track. Used a Waves L1, Waves RComp, and an Algorithmix TTDR meter for the metering.
I then set RComp to 50ms attack, 200 release, ratio 3:1.

I found that putting the limiter after the compressor did indeed allow the large spikes through the compressor, boosted by the make up gain, and then limited by the limiter, as expected. However, the largest signal peaks would overload the input and especially the output of the compressor before being limited, not an issue really with the headroom on DSP plugins but would definitely be an issue with physical circuits.

I then tried it the other way round, so limiter, then compressor. The limiter threshold now had to be set a bit lower, to prevent the final output from clipping, BUT it did so without clipping the compressor at all either. It could be driven just as hard now, but without any stage clipping at all. To my ears, it also sounded more natural and smoother overall, but that is probably subjective.

So, either is effective, but for me I think I will stick to limiter, then compressor.

[quote name='Jean-Luc Pickguard' post='876618' date='Jun 24 2010, 05:09 PM'][url="http://www.stsanders.com/www/pages/videos/band-shreds/sts-kiss.php"]StSanders[/url] would be able to put up a Joey De Maio Shreds video, but there wouldn't be much point as it would sound more polished than the original[/quote]

The funny thing is, I thought it was one of those "shreds" videos for about the first two minutes! I kept waiting for it to get funny, instead of just sad...

Barefaced [url="http://barefacedbass.com/index.php?page=vintage"]Vintage[/url] or [url="http://barefacedbass.com/index.php?page=super-twelve"]Super Twelve[/url] seems like it might be a good choice?

[quote name='The Twickerman' post='876483' date='Jun 24 2010, 02:57 PM']Oooof! Got the PCB and reading the instructions. I may well have bitten off more than I can chew.

Still, I have two more projects on which to improve my skills with the iron before I come to this one!!![/quote]

Well, if you need help, we're all here for you!

[quote name='51m0n' post='876013' date='Jun 23 2010, 11:32 PM']as you crank the make up gain, you also crank that peak, until it is always clipping you input.[/quote]

At that stage, could you not lower the limiting threshold to prevent that, if the limiter were first in the chain?


I swear that at some point I learned it was better to go limiter, then compressor, but I can't for the life of me remember where or find the info, it was probably in a book somewhere but I'm worried now that I've just made the whole thing up lol...hence my edit above.

Ignore my previous edit. Run comp, then limiter.


I had read somewhere, it should be the other way, and it had made a lot of sense -- but until I can source that info, do it the conventional way.

I love my big, heavy rig. I think the head and 2 1x15's weighs in at 180 pounds total? But it's got its own little wheeled rig it moves about in, and really it's not that tough to move at all. Stairs are a bit of a pain but not impossible, and easy if I have help.

It's not clever, cool, impressive, or stylish -- but it is gutsy, loud and sounds bloody good, just the way I like it

I think after the initial craze passes over, lightweight rigs will remain a nice alternative but won't ever replace big heavy ones entirely -- they are after all just another tool. The thing that always amazes me about the internet bass forums are how quickly things are hyped up, loved, then quickly forgotten, moved on, or even spoken ill of in favour of whatever the next big new thing is. In any case, I'm sure at some point 'heavy' will come back.

same as ever, the only one I own but it's the best one!



:wub:

I've had my programmable BDDI for over two years now, and can't recommend it enough -- it's brilliant. Maybe not the "best" one out there, but once you learn to use it properly, it sounds fantastic, is indestructible, and every sound engineer everywhere feels comfortable using it. Also, the ability to have three different tones instantly available is actually really, really useful.

Really, I'm sorry to hear that. I've ordered twice from them, easily over a 100 quid worth of stuff in total and the shipping was great, they even fudged the import value so it was under the limit. I have to say I'm surprised, but that's really a shame to hear, I suppose every company eventually lets something slip.


Just out of curiosity, why did you wait over 45 days? Even standard slow mail takes only 14 days to ship.


Also, probably a silly question, but have you tried calling them?

I don't know about best, but my favourite valve head by far is my little Akai 5W head I got out of a tape deck. Three controls -- Power, Volume, Power Attenuator, job done!

I've had nothing but amazing results with the blackfinger, I love the sound and I can get exactly the sort of thick punchy compression that I want, and with essentially no noise whatsoever.


BUT I know a lot of people who have had issues with theirs, especially with noise, and in fact mine used to until I corrected it. I was also surprised by the poor build QC I found, including several dry joints (I got it used but it's not that old), a cap which wasn't even soldered in on one side, and another cap which was physically crushed, among other things.


So, even though I love mine and would never get rid of it, I feel somewhat hesitant in recommending it to anyone else. To be honest though, I wouldn't worry too much, as in the studio you'll likely be able to run your bass through very very nice compressors indeed during mixdown -- so there's no need to bring your own!

[quote name='molan' post='872108' date='Jun 19 2010, 08:25 PM']The one I saw was an SWR SM500 - the thing that made me think it was not too hard was that I've just bought another SWR which has been adapted & it works just fine [/quote]

I don't know much about this amp I'm afraid, but there appears to be no voltage selection switch on the back so it's going to be a case of either rewiring something inside or having a new power transformer fitted, depending on how the amp has been designed. Either way it should be easy to convert, it just depends on how much you want to spend -- if you need one, a new power transformer is not going to be insanely expensive, but it won't be stupidly cheap either.

If it's just a matter of rewiring something though, it should be a quick and easy job for any decent tech.

[quote name='owen' post='871691' date='Jun 19 2010, 01:37 PM']www.yourockguitar.com

Is it a toy or is it a cheap and cheerful midi controller which might actually work?

Discuss.[/quote]

Looks amazing as a midi controller but I'd be worried how durable it is?

It really depends on the amp. Some amps it's as easy as flicking a switch, some need to have a couple connections changed, some adapt automatically, and some need an new power transformer. What is the amp?

If it can be done, there's no reason to think it would be less reliable. Nowadays, basically any amp that you buy in the UK is identical to those released in north america and japan, manufacturer's don't change their designs -- the only difference is the voltage switch has been done at the factory.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='871492' date='Jun 19 2010, 08:47 AM']Here's my cheeky little fuzz factory project - just waiting for the mini pots from Small Bear US - if anyone knows a closer retailer I'd love to know.
Little home drawn/etched pcb and I had to copy the old FF graphics as they are so funky.[/quote]
RapidOnline also has some great mini pots [url="http://www.rapidonline.com/Electronic-Components/Resistors-Potentiometer/Control-Potentiometers/0.5W-12.7mm-Rotary-potentiometers/82067"]here[/url], metal body, conductive plastic, fairly cheap and PCB mount. Don't have every value ever though, so you many have to stretch it sometimes or get an occasional pot from somewhere else.

By the way, transistors, even Ge ones, aren't quite as sensitive as everyone makes out -- if it was me, I would definitely want to solder them next time, as sockets can oxidise or work loose over time. It's not that sockets are bad, I socket some of my IC's sometimes, its just one more thing to go wrong over time is all.

[quote name='JackLondon' post='871511' date='Jun 19 2010, 09:15 AM']altough they are a bit expensive I think they look absolutely cool![/quote]
my sentiments exactly!

Jack, where did you happen to get the knobs on the fuzz from? I've been looking (admittedly, not very hard) for something similar.