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escholl

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Posts posted by escholl

  1. [quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='857906' date='Jun 5 2010, 01:49 AM']Escholl - My cab is wired up so that the 2 left ones are tied in together and the 2 right ones are tied in together. I unhooked the 2 right ones (thats where the unknown speaker is) and had just the 2 left ones running, plugged in everything, turned up to 8 (i've never done this before, was shitting myself haha) and there was no crackle or anything. Didn't bother trying it with the other side incase i smoked the suspect broken speaker xD[/quote]

    Well, it's certainly sounding like it's the speaker, which means you will likely have to put out for a new one. The only last thing to check is to make sure the connectors going to the spade terminals on the speaker itself is clean, but in all honesty from what you've said you will probably need a new driver. Just look at it this way -- your cab will finally be fully matched, and will be sounding even better than it did! :)

  2. [quote name='Al Heeley' post='857844' date='Jun 4 2010, 11:47 PM']if u say the manufacturer doesn't matter, that implies that all pins for all makes are same[/quote]

    all pinouts for the same model number are always the same, regardless of who makes it. a 2n5088, for example, will have the same pin assignments across manufacturers.

  3. [quote name='StevieD_FenderP2009' post='857413' date='Jun 4 2010, 04:15 PM']Should I try unwiring one speaker at a time to see if I can determine which speaker it might be (if that is the actual problem) or is that not recomended?[/quote]

    That might work, but it depends how your cab is wired up. It does seem to me however that that speaker will most likely need to be replaced.

  4. [quote name='Al Heeley' post='857642' date='Jun 4 2010, 08:18 PM']I guess my problem is I don't know the manufacturer, they are just online ebay purchases.
    The case says:

    2n
    5088
    -H19[/quote]

    the manufacturer doesn't really matter, to be honest. you've got 2n5088 transistors, data sheets here:

    [url="http://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/50028/FAIRCHILD/2N5088.html"]Alldatasheet.com[/url]

    all the manufacturer's data sheet's should all more or less be in line, Fairchild's has the pin-out listed right at the top. hope it helps.

  5. [quote name='Al Heeley' post='855455' date='Jun 2 2010, 09:55 PM']Only thing I can think of is one of my transistors is a different make and the legsa are wrong way round??[/quote]

    What did you use, and what was the original?

    [url="http://www.alldatasheet.com"]alldatasheet.com[/url] should sort you out.

  6. Ok, but it only happens when the amp output is over a certain level, so not when it's quieter? I'm just trying to rule out the chance it could be the amp is all. Have you tried cleaning the speaker cable connectors and jacks? (just by unplugging and re-plugging them a half dozen times or so)?

    Is there any way you can put your head near the cab and hear if it is a specific speaker that is doing this, or if all of them do it?

  7. [quote name='Huwberry' post='853692' date='Jun 1 2010, 03:43 PM']OK then... seems I'll be paying around £125 for a replacement power board. With labour, VAT and shipping included the total will be around £180.

    Oh well. I suppose it could have been worse?[/quote]

    Sorry to hear it cost you so much :)

    FWIW, I wouldn't go back to them. There is no way the entire power board would need to be replaced, unless perhaps your amp had been in a fire or been crushed by something -- obviously not the case. Very likely one or two components failed, but rather than do the right thing and replace them and test the board, they have just decided to scrap the lot and charge you for a new board. The only level of fault finding worse than this would be to say "Well, your amp is broken, you'll need a new one".

    Sorry, but as a former test engineer, stuff like this winds me up.

  8. [quote name='bobbass4k' post='851282' date='May 29 2010, 05:49 PM']Finally got round to finishing my muff clone, only I can't find the 9v jack, so how would I go about wiring up just a battery clip? Obviously the +ve goes to the 9v on the board, but would i wire the +ve straight to ground or to the ring of the input jack? I'm building it from [url="http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_wiring.pdf"]this [/url] btw

    Cheers[/quote]

    Yes the -ve connects to the ring, as it shows in the diagram. That way the battery is only on when a jack is plugged in.

    You can also get the DC input jacks from Maplin for about...1.49 i think? Price might have gone up a bit since last time I was there.

  9. Assuming you don't need more than 30mA current draw, [url="http://www.diago.co.uk/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,39/category_id,3/manufacturer_id,0/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,206/"]Diago has a solution.[/url]

    Not in stock at the moment but probably worth asking them about it.

    As for the 15V/18V thing, even though it's only 3 volts if may depend upon what IC's are used in the pedal. Ask the manufacturer? Some are more helpful than others.

  10. The old HH power amps tend to regularly sell for very reasonable prices on ebay. A few people on the forum have quite cheap Class-D amps they picked up somewhere, but I can't remember where.

    Keep in mind that going from 220 watts to 480 watts will only be around a 3dB increase in volume -- but of course, sometimes that's all you need.

  11. [quote name='Bobo_Grimmer' post='845249' date='May 22 2010, 06:09 PM']:lol: hum... it is a weird one. Right i'll try and type out a bit more info now i'm home. (wish me luck! not to good at explaining my self) :rolleyes:

    the D.I. has no ground lift function. my bass into my floor deck into the front of the amp. that's as it should be. then i have the output from my effects loop on the back of the amp going to my rack tuner, out from there to a compressor, out from there back into the input of the effects loop. i have the D.I. (XLR) going to my desk and thats where i have my headphones plugged in. When i have everything switched on, when i first sit down to play, the bass signal is very week. It sounds all toppy with no definition. If you turn the input to the preamp up more than an 8th it distorts but not a normal preamp overdriven type distortion but more a crackly not good sounding distortion. Now if i disconnect the effects loop stuff and the D.I then plug the D.I. back in seems to fix it. as in the signal goes back to normal. Sounding all ampeg like and well just lovely. So i plug the effects loop stuff back in and everything works as normal. odd huh! Now i say about the ground lift, Maybe a mod i can do if necessary, because it kinda sounds like the signal is being pulled down by something. The floor deck has a 'wall wort' 9V adaptor, the compressor has a kettle lead, the rack tuner and the amp also have kettle leads. they are all on the same power strip and the desk is on a different one.

    Is that amy help? :)[/quote]

    actually it sounds like it could be a bad connection -- does this procedure for removing the problem work every time? i mean, if you were to do it 5 times in a row, would the results be the same everytime? Or did unplugging the re-plugging the cables just fix it that one time?

  12. [quote name='v8bass' post='844776' date='May 22 2010, 01:02 AM']Maybe try a Bass to MIDI convertor such as the Sonuus B2m ( there may be one in the misc for sale section somewhere ... :blush: )

    Hook it up to a cheap synth module Roland Korg Emu etc or even virtual soft synth via laptop ....I had a dog and his name was ...... Bingo ...[/quote]

    +1, B2M into a DSI MoPho would be just about the ultimate tiny mono bass synth. The only downside, of course, is it would set you back a fair bit...but think of all you could do!

  13. [quote name='Mr. Foxen' post='843365' date='May 20 2010, 06:17 PM']What is 'cube power? 650w of which = 2000w of solid state.[/quote]

    As soon as a company makes up it's own way of rating power output, I tend to stop listening, or caring, because it generally means these people have let their marketing departments override their sensibility. Watts are watts, regardless of whether they come out of a solid state head, a tube head, or a unicorn's arse. There are no magical watts that are somehow worth 3x "normal" watts.


    [/rant]

  14. [quote name='cheddatom' post='842786' date='May 20 2010, 08:18 AM']Of course it counts! It's when you said "i'm going to see if I can incorporate this with my bass sound" I thought maybe you'd turned the whole thing into a pedal for bass![/quote]

    haha good :)

    Not a pedal as i would need very nimble feet! but I am trying to think of a use for it, it is small and can sound quite amazing for certain stuff. I am working on a box for splitting and routing multiple effect streams in parallel, I was thinking I could just add it into that, but I'm still not sure that I could bring the sounds all together or that it would even have a purpose lol.

  15. [quote name='cheddatom' post='842051' date='May 19 2010, 01:50 PM']WTF is going on there?!?[/quote]

    I built the effect into a synth in the end. I don't know if it still counts as a DIY effect, but I thought I'd post it anyways in case anyone was interested.

  16. This started out as a DIY effect, an Ampeg Scrambler clone about....2 years ago?



    But I never had much use for it, because while it sounds really fantastic on my bass, I found it had to be driven quite hard to really sound good, ie I basically needed a preamp or even better another fuzz before it to really make it sing. So, it sat unused, then it sort of got added to another project...




    I'm trying to think of a way to incorporate this into my bass sound now :)

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