escholl

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='896289' date='Jul 16 2010, 09:58 AM']If you have an overdrive which is sensitive to attack, then if you put a limiter in front of it, won't that also limit the ability of the overdrive to be dynamic? ie: that extra grit when you dig in harder for the Hives cover?[/quote]

Not if the limiter is set high enough. Also, when the overdrive is off, having the limiter first will prevent any other pedals from having their gain stages clipped. Although, obviously, it's all down to personal preference.

[quote name='badgerific' post='896106' date='Jul 15 2010, 11:13 PM']I believe increasing the value of the input and output caps will increase the low end. I might be wrong though, I'm still a noob at this stuff.[/quote]


That only works on some circuits, other circuits sometimes need additional cap values changed. There is no real set way, without knowing the particular circuit, although increasing the value of the DC blocking caps is generally a good place to start (these would be like what you'd call the input and output caps, although they can be between gain stages as well).

Do you have pics of your wiring, that way if you made an error in relation to the stripboard layout you posted, maybe one of us might spot it? Always helps to have an extra set of eyes look at stuff

[quote name='badgerific' post='890768' date='Jul 9 2010, 08:24 PM']So thats cathode (stripe end) on the lug which goes to the board and the anode to the ground lug?[/quote]

Exactly

[quote name='4-string-thing' post='885535' date='Jul 4 2010, 03:54 PM']Here is another one of some selected bits from my Amp collection...[/quote]



WANT.

[quote name='JackLondon' post='885386' date='Jul 4 2010, 12:17 PM']2. I would like to put the cab on wheels so my question is : Does it matter if the main orientation of the speakers is horizontal or vertical ? I would ideally like to have it vertical, it just looks cool that way.[/quote]

The horizontal dispersion will theoretically be more even with the drivers arranged vertically (which is good). So if you like the way it looks too, then I'd say go for it vertical.

Ok, it's just, the tweeter is going to sound terrible! There is a reason why guitar cabs don't use them -- the natural roll off of the speakers prevents any distortion/fuzz/OD from sounding harsh. You can do what you like obviously but I would really, really advise against having a tweeter in that cab.

My recommendation would be to stick a Celestion Seventy-80 in there and be done with it, no need for a crossover or anything. This driver is only 3.1 kg and about 40 quid too, hence my recommending it -- light, cheap, and still sounds very good

[quote name='Lfalex v1.1' post='885031' date='Jul 3 2010, 07:57 PM']When replacing them, treat them like automotive halogen bulbs- don't handle them directly- do it through a cloth or gloves. This stops grease deposits from your skin causing them to blow (I don't fully understand all the technicalities of this one. Maybe I'll wiki it!)[/quote]

It actually is perfectly ok to touch them with your bare hands -- it would only be an issue if the envelopes were made of quartz, but they're made of glass. Think of them like a regular incandescent -- ok to touch with your bare hands, but they might be hot if they've been on!

[quote name='JackLondon' post='885037' date='Jul 3 2010, 08:24 PM']Right, had a look at the eminence website and I think I'll go for these :

[url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/eminence-tonkerlite-8ohm-12-125watt-redcoat-neo-guitar-speaker-p-889.html"]http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/emine...aker-p-889.html[/url]

+

[url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/eminence-apt-80-1-8ohm-45watt-80-degree-supertweeter-p-966.html"]http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/emine...eter-p-966.html[/url]

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[url="http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/eminence-pxb-5k0-high-pass-5khz-crossover-p-834.html"]http://www.lean-business.co.uk/eshop/emine...over-p-834.html[/url][/quote]

Just out of curiosity, is this for an acoustic guitar?

[quote name='JackLondon' post='884292' date='Jul 2 2010, 08:09 PM']What would be the difference between open back and closed? Is it really just that simple?

Cheers
Jack[/quote]

Open back will give you a different tone to closed, has less bass, and also acts as a bit different kind of sound source to sealed or reflex cabs.

But for guitar, it sounds good with a decent driver, and there is basically no real cab to design -- just a bit of wood to hold the driver, really. For just a small, light, simple guitar cab, I would definitely go for a 12" open back design. For what it's worth, I've always generally preferred the tone from open-backed cabs over closed, but that's just a personal preference I suppose.

[quote name='badgerific' post='884038' date='Jul 2 2010, 03:06 PM']Next time I do a build on stripboard I will make sure I add some reverse voltage protection. Cheers for explaining that [/quote]
No worries, it's super simple to do too -- next build, just pop one on the DC input jack like I have below. Sorted!

A single 12" in an open back cab? Unless it's acoustic guitar amp, I wouldn't worry about having a two way driver system or anything like that.

Pick a driver, build a cab, barely has to be larger than the driver itself even, and job done.

I always keep them, or at least keep the guts of them, but then I tend to salvage everything.

Most of them can be turned into something useful though, eventually.

[quote name='badgerific' post='883434' date='Jul 1 2010, 09:30 PM']The way I have it wired the power goes through the led and then to the switch like in this diagram:


So I thought the LED should sort out that problem for me, I'm really confused at why it wouldn't.[/quote]

The switch turns off power to the LED, not the board itself. The LED had no effect on the board itself, or at least it's not supposed to. The board power is always on, regardless of what the LED does.

Hence, the LED is no protection again any reverse voltage.

[quote name='badgerific' post='883407' date='Jul 1 2010, 08:56 PM']I figured that was what it's for. Surely the LED should do the same job as it's wired input dc to led then to the board.[/quote]

Not really, as the power for the board doesn't go through the LED on it's way to powering the board. Also, the LED is oriented to conduct normally when the input DC is correct. The protection diode is placed with the cathode connected to normal +V, not ground, and in parallel with the rest of the circuit -- this way if a reverse DC voltage is connected to the input, the diode will clamp the voltage down to about 0.6 volts, essentially shorting the power supply but protecting the board. The theory is that you will notice pretty quickly, and unplug the power supply if this happens. The power supply would be fine by the way, provided you don't take ages to notice it's not working.

[quote name='Clarky' post='883010' date='Jul 1 2010, 02:29 PM']Thx. Would this cope with being put through a Barefaced 2x15 Vintage cab? Or is it too lacking in power? I need something thats loud enough to deal with a club/pub/small hall sized gig (for which the AD200B is obviously overkill!)[/quote]

It should be fine, the Vintage is quite an efficient cab anyway. I've not tried the Shuttle but I run a 250W head (50W less than the shuttle 3.0) through two 1x15's, which are probably similar to or less efficient than the vintage, and it is still deafening by the time it gets the point of overdriving the power amp -- I've never actually needed it that loud, in any gig situation.

[quote name='badgerific' post='882548' date='Jun 30 2010, 10:47 PM']I didn't think I'd need the extra cap and diode. I was also using this diagram for a help with the off board stuff and it doesn't have a diode or extra cap.[/quote]
If it it what I'm thinking of, it's just a diode wired across the input DC, as a form of reverse voltage protection. An input cap is sometime wired across the DC as well, in case the incoming supply is not very smooth, but to be honest I doubt you'd need that really. But reverse voltage protection is always a good idea.

Potentiometers don't usually go microphonic -- what makes you think it's the pots?

what did you do with the old body?

looks good to me by the way

just run bass -> vt ->bddi -> amp


turn the bddi off when you don't want that sound, and treat the vt like any other effect. if you just want the vt sound, then just leave the bddi off the whole gig, it will still pass unaffected signal cleanly to the PA via the di out.

Fibreglass or kevlar cloth/tape and some silicone or resin?


I've no experience with any of that mind, i'm just trying to think of what would be strong, light, and flexible. I would probably try duct tape myself

compression, drive, bridge pickup, roll off the bass a bit?


Probably a lot of pedals that could get you there, but the first thing that came to mind was the [url="http://www.amtelectronicsusa.com/amtelectronicsusa_slapbass_demo_1.mp3"]AMT Slap Bass[/url]. There is a thread about it [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=35708&hl=amt+slap+bass"]here[/url].

[quote name='GarethFlatlands' post='878323' date='Jun 26 2010, 06:13 PM']Are the 22's any good? I've got a speaker cab (pics on another thread) and something that small would make a great one hand carry amp for small gigs.
The 44 looks pretty sweet too![/quote]

I don't know, I've not used one myself, just seen a few on the forum so I know they're about. It would be so handy just to have on my pedalboard, or just around, as it is so tiny!

[quote name='arthurhenry' post='878366' date='Jun 26 2010, 07:13 PM']I can't be the only one who's done this. Dodgy boot catch on Cavilier estate. 4x10 already loaded, lifted it upright to get screwdriver out of spare tyre well. Fiddled with catch, slammed boot - CRASH. Bucket for glass, two bin bags and a roll of parcel tape and off to the gig.[/quote]


Lol yes. Former band, guitarist did that do the drummers car.


At least it wasn't my fault though, I wasn't even there.

Just came across [url="http://www.ehx.com/products/44-magnum"]this[/url] the other day, hadn't seen it posted yet so thought I would for anyone who's interested. [url="http://www.dolphinmusic.co.uk/product/45457-electro-harmonix-44-magnum-power-amp.html"]Dolphin Music[/url] lists them as being about a 100 quid, although they're not in stock yet. EHX says mid-July, but who knows.



I know a few people already use the 22 Calibre (the micro amp they came out with last year) but this one will hopefully pack a bit more oomph. I want one!