escholl

How can an EQ be transparent?

[quote name='dave_bass5' post='869762' date='Jun 17 2010, 11:16 AM']Im no expert but it seems to me that newer amps, and maybe more so digital ones like the F1, need complete boards replaced rather than things being repaired with a bit of solder. Maybe thats why the quote was so high.[/quote]

Nope, it's all just components. Believe it or not, many of the same components in fact. Just arranged a bit different way.

There is absolutely no reason, ever, why an entire pcb would need to be replaced, unless:

1) the pcb itself is physically damaged beyond repair

or

2) the repair tech is lazy or untrained

Can't comment on Markbass's reliability but I will say, a few times now someone has talked about having their MB repaired by MB/Proel and it is always insanely expensive. The answer, I should think, is to take it to your local tech instead.

Just to follow up, I've spoken to GHS about this, and they've said it will be fine -- so I guess this is normal. Time to put the strings on!

Great company by the way, I called them and left a message, and they actually called me back almost right away!

[quote name='7enderhead' post='869904' date='Jun 17 2010, 02:17 PM']Sorry to revive an oldish thread, but I had one built by JC in early 2009.

Top notch build and signal quality (no noise at all).

I found the sound to be lacking in the upper mid/lower treble department (when playing through my Markbass Mini CMD 12), but at that time I was using dead flatwounds on my P basses exclusively. It kind of took the 'plonk' away. Deep lower department, though.

I have not touched the pedal in a long time, but leaning more towards roundwounds these days, I'll give it another shot. If it does not suit my taste, I will probably try to sell it.

Cheers,

Christian[/quote]

I first came across these about a month ago, and have been slowly getting more and more interested in either building one or buying a pre-built one, as the pre-built one seems to include some custom components the DIY one doesn't have. I don't suppose you have any recordings of it, do you? Or know of a review anywhere?

[quote name='Balcro' post='869859' date='Jun 17 2010, 01:12 PM']String winding is perhaps 30mm short of the tuning peg.[/quote]

Lucky. String winding would wrap at least once around the E tuning peg if I put them on. I am gutted.

I ordered M's, what do you think of the ML's? I wasn't sure about the thicker D and G string, hence why I went with M's

[quote name='Balcro' post='868934' date='Jun 16 2010, 12:40 PM']I haven't fitted them yet, lots of domestic stuff going on at the moment, but I'll do it soon and mail you back.
The bass came fitted with D'addario EXL165's so that will be the comparison.

Balcro.[/quote]

Here's a silly question for when you've fitted them -- do yours fit your bass? Mine are clearly longer than a 34" scale, and would indeed wrap the body of the E string around the tuning peg several times if I put them on. So I haven't. I ordered 34" strings (I think...it said 34" anyways), but I'm just trying to figure out if they've sent me what I actually ordered, or not, or what's gone wrong here. The outer pack says M3075, which are the right ones, but the individual string packets all say 38" scale. Argh.

Just to say, I didn't get them from stringsdirect, so if it is a mistake on the part of the seller, I don't want to inadvertently tarnish their good name.

Always good to hear positive things

Incidentally I've actually just ordered a set for myself, waiting on the post to get them here, what do you think of them? I tried them on a bit of a whim instead of flats, went with mediums but don't really know what to expect.

[quote name='Dubs' post='868201' date='Jun 15 2010, 05:32 PM']Bob, your B is flat...

[/quote]

it's not often I start genuinely laughing at something on here, but this has done it

[quote name='EdwardHimself' post='867806' date='Jun 15 2010, 10:13 AM']It's probably nothing i couldn't do on my computer, but the fact that it's on a tiny phone is quite impressive really.[/quote]

The phone is only running something called TouchOSC, it's basically just a control interface. As far as I can tell, he appears to essentially be using MIDI to control some external hardware.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='867720' date='Jun 15 2010, 08:04 AM']blimey, you know your trannies! I bow to your superior knowledge but i am now destined to hunt the interweb for eternity in search of a rogue BS170 chip.[/quote]
lol i'm sure there's one out there

also sorry if my last post came across as a bit of an abrupt know-it-all, in filling my head with electronics stuff I seem to have chucked out some useful things, like any sort of social skills.


[quote name='The Twickerman' post='867900' date='Jun 15 2010, 11:54 AM']I've just ordered one. $65 (in the UK) buys you the PCB and detailed construction techniques (a bit steep I know). It also buys you into their users' forum.

Apparently there are folks who offer parts kits too... all will be revealed once I get access to the users' forum.[/quote]
nice, be sure to let us know how it goes! lots of pics are a must

I am considering doing the same at some point so would be very interested in this project.

[quote name='Al Heeley' post='867138' date='Jun 14 2010, 04:07 PM']that does not appear to be strictly true.
[url="http://www.muzique.com/lab/trans.gif"]http://www.muzique.com/lab/trans.gif[/url]
the BS170 trannies legs can be swapped over, depending on mfr.[/quote]

Trust me, it is true, always. If it wasn't, the industry would run into some serious issues.

Compare the datasheets, and you will see that that gif image is actually incorrect. The Vishay and Zetex ones actually have the Fairchild pinout, not a reversed pinout.

Vishay lists the 2N7000 on the same datasheet as their BS170, and that does have the gate and source switched, so that is likely where the confusion arose.

+1 I came across them recently too, their album is actually pretty good. Def worth checking out.

:wub:

A good recording takes, among other things, a good room, a good mic and good mic technique. Given that the average person (myself included) will lack one or all of those, and amp modelling has come a long way, it's not really a surprise that many feel they achieve better results with digital modelling in a recording situation.

Like I said before, I prefer analogue in most situations but ultimately I will use whatever I feel will give me the absolute best sound in any given situation. I suppose there's a lot more I could type here, but I cba to be honest. Use whatever makes you happy, just don't be annoying about it.

[quote name='mildmanofrock' post='865339' date='Jun 12 2010, 04:49 PM']Hi, I just changed the tubes in an outburst of GAS. There wasn't a crackle before I changed them. I'm not that handy with electronics unfortunately so I think I'll seek professional help!

Cheers[/quote]

You may have just wiggled one of the valve bases loose when changing the valves, may have had a nearly dry joint already and the added pressure wiggled it free. Don't worry, there was no way you could have known it would happen. Should be a quick, easy fix for any professional tech.

If you happen to have any contact cleaner, have you tried using it to clean the valve sockets? It is also possible they are just a little oxidised, and just need a bit of a clean.

[quote name='mildmanofrock' post='864978' date='Jun 12 2010, 10:34 AM']Well, I thought all was fine... then played gig and the sound was very crackly. It was actually going crackly when I first put the valves in. I put the old valves back in - same problem. So back in with the new valves, then I screwed the cover on, put it in the rack case, and all seemed fine... but was not to be...

Does anyone know what the problem might be and if/how it can be solved?

Thank you folks![/quote]

was it crackling to begin with, and that was why you initially replaced the valves? It may very likely be a dry joint or loose connection within the amplifier. How handy are you with electronics?

[quote name='bobbass4k' post='864860' date='Jun 12 2010, 12:59 AM']...[/quote]

Stripboard looks ok, but without tracing through everything I couldn't really tell you if there were errors. You'll just have to build it.

As for mods, well C1 and C4 are actually already quite large but you may want to increase C2 from 100n to 220n or more if you feel it's not letting through enough bass for some reason.

Given how expensive it is, there's hardly anything in it!

[quote name='The Twickerman' post='863616' date='Jun 10 2010, 07:05 PM']ANyone tried to build one of these?

[url="http://www.lynx.net/~jc/DIY360plusKit.html"]http://www.lynx.net/~jc/DIY360plusKit.html[/url][/quote]

Weirdly, I just came across that the other day, and was wondering the same thing lol. I like the idea of it, anyway. Apparently it's a bit different to the version that he makes however, but then it's also much cheaper. I think someone here should build/buy one (I would but i'm too poor), they could be the next big thing!

I don't dislike digital modelling, but I'll always choose the real thing if given the choice. It has it's place, certainly, but I don't think it should ever be considered a replacement for the real thing. Having said that all that, two of my favourite synths, the Oberheim OB-12 and the Nord Wave, are both analogue modelling. And in some cases, the DSP modelling is actually lower noise than the original analogue counterpart.

To add to that, the term "digital modelling" in general is pretty vague, and the end result of it can vary as everyone knows. Some companies, such as UA, I feel take a more accurate, if slightly less popular approach to it, and I feel they have very good results. Having said that, other companies such as Waves, SSL, Digidesign etc all employ various forms of digital modelling in their signal processing, and they all get very good results too. The big weakness nowadays is still the quality of the ADC, DAC, and clock driving them, along with the quality of the low-pass filter used on the ADC input. These are all expensive components, so, generally the cheaper the digital modelling unit, the cheaper the quality of these.

Would I own and use digital modelling for my live bass sound if I wanted portability and a decent sound? Yes.

Would I use it instead of the analogue equivalent on stage and in the studio, if I had the choice? No.



Just out of curiosity, where do people stand on products that are halfway between the real thing and DSP, such as the [url="http://www.anamodaudio.com/ats1.html"]Anamod Audio ATS-1[/url], which uses what is known as an analogue computer to simulate a tape machine? Presumably, at some point, this technology will spread to emulate other things as well.

The short answer is yes, I use them all the time. Surely that's what they're there for?

Besides, it's not like my setup is flat anyway. The compressor's not flat, I don't think, at least it doesn't compress totally evenly, but it does sound good. My PBDDI is def not flat, and I use the eq and blend controls on there too to get each of the three presets sounding a bit different, and with different OD levels too. My amp's tone stack is flat? not flat? I would guess not. Then I boost a bit more at 330 and cut some 820 on the graphic, before driving two speakers which both have a massive sensitivity peak at 2k.

That never really changes however, if I want to change my sound I'll change how I play, how the pickups are blended, and where the tone control is on my bass. I never bother though because I only really need one sound, and some different drive levels.

[quote name='urbanx' post='861230' date='Jun 8 2010, 05:10 PM']It has a permanant PA, but is essentially the back room of a pub. I don't know where they plucked the figure is from. It's actually £240 as you get £40 back deposit, so my bad. The similar sized venue next door is £170.[/quote]

So, if you were to run the gig yourself, assuming you fill the place with 50 people, and everyone there averages maybe 2 drinks at 3 quid each, the venue is up 540 pounds, while you make a tenner. Def not worth trying to run it yourself then, and I can kind of see why you've done what you have. But I still think that you shouldn't be supplying backline, bringing two amps, etc.... no way.

[quote name='thisnameistaken' post='861008' date='Jun 8 2010, 02:07 PM']Dude that is wrong, you shouldn't be taking gear specifically for other people.[/quote]

+1, as someone else said you are not a gear hire company. I can see why you did it though, but honest you just need to tell them to get stuffed.

theoretically and from a technical standpoint, two identical cabs will work better together than two non-identical cabs. that is to say, 2 2x12's will work better together and provide a more even response than a 2x12 and a 2x10.

coupled with the fact that you already like the sound of the 2x12, there is really no reason I can think of for getting the 2x10. but i'm sure either one would probably be fine.

I don't loan my equipment out, for anyone, ever, under any circumstances -- as a rule. But, for bands I've played with before, or am friends with, well I have a nice rig and I usually offer to let them use it. It is fun to hear just how bloody good it sounds out front

In the OP's situation however, I would tell the promoter to p*ss off, honest. Don't put up with that sh*te.

And I fail to see how some of these muppets out there can honestly treat gear so badly. I wouldn't even know -how- to damage gear like in some of the stories I've heard of on here. And even the last drummer I played with, who used to hit the skins like they'd personally wronged him and would go through a set of 3B's about every other rehearsal, or indeed sometimes every rehearsal, never broke a skin.

Try cleaning the output jack, even if it's just by plugging and unplugging the cable a dozen times, sometimes they can cause this issue.

Also try moving the pots back and forth over the full extent of their range, again maybe a dozen times or so. If there's no crackling while doing that, then it's not any of the pots.

It could also be a dry joint on the preamp board itself, a quick and simple fix if you're handy with a soldering iron.