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Everything posted by SteveO

  1. [quote name='OldGit' post='313635' date='Oct 24 2008, 11:52 AM']...an answer looking for a problem...[/quote] Exactly. great line btw. [quote name='OldGit' post='313635' date='Oct 24 2008, 11:52 AM']As for f'ugly expensive basses, I still think the Ashdown Loadstone Primal wins hands down[/quote] Dunno bout that. it doesn't leap out and make you wanna chuck. headstock needs changing, but just looks like any old bland bass made with a bit of knobbly wood.
  2. jeez, Have to vote for that as the most fugly off-the-shelf-bass over 1k ever. 2 quickies tho... How strong are those toggle switches at the bottom? looks like you can only use a stand that grabs the neck, and deffinatley no leaning against your cabs Would prefer electronic stuff outside the instrument personally (wireless / overdrive etc) unless the bypass is totally uncoloured. also means you're carrying redundant stuff round your neck if you change for better / newer stuff. interesting idea, but seems a bit gimicky. +1 on the recharging doubts too. what's the point? would prefer to to leave the bass in it's case between uses and have a couple of sets of batteries recharging in a charger rather than having to leave it plugged into the wall, or make a hole in the case for a wire or whatever other solutions there are... again, what's the point when there dosen't seem to be any benefits of having an onboard charger?
  3. I found this to be a real bugbear when I started out, I can still remember listening for hours to one track over and over trying to work out what the hell was going on. Now I don't bother. If a bass player can't hear the bassline (with our ears attuned to picking out the low end) then the average punter definately can't hear it. In situations like this you can play what you like (keeping to the key / feel of the track obviously) and no one can say it's wrong, cos no one knows how it should be played.
  4. and what's wrong with jus sittin on your combo / stack? Invite a pretty girl to share your seat and watch her smile when you detune to C
  5. Cool idea , but can I suggest that instead of listing the page number, you link to the post (firstly it's a chore to search through all the posts on a page looking for the one you want and secondly coz not everyone has the default settings of 20 (?) posts per page. It's dead easy. click on the post # at the top right (in your case post [u]#1[/u]) then copy link and paste this into your post as a url: [code][url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=28588&view=findpost&p=295010"]Trevor Dunn [/url][/code] [url="http://basschat.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=28588&view=findpost&p=295010"]Trevor Dunn [/url]
  6. I know sibelius can do it, but it's an expensive solution. I think Guitar pro can print out like that (still not cheap). finale has a free version which may be able to sort you out, but I recon the easiest would be to do it in word. there's a couple of free fonts [url="http://zoundz.pardyline.com.au/fontindex.html"]here[/url] you could check out. Swingdings seems to be just what you want. After a quick glance at the instuctions pdf on that page I'd suggest that you open character map (it's somewhere in the start menu) to select & copy chord symbols then paste into word.
  7. [quote name='Pkomor' post='284466' date='Sep 15 2008, 08:25 PM']so the t.bone one handles the low e/drop d ok?[/quote] Nope, that's the tone change I was talking about. I just turn the bass knob on the amp up about 1/8th of a turn to compensate. with this it handles the B on my 5-string happily.
  8. [quote name='Pkomor' post='280201' date='Sep 9 2008, 11:32 AM']I saw the t.bone ones on thomann, but i assumed that one by a well known manufacturer (such as akg/nady) would perform better.[/quote] I only have experience of these cheapies from Thomman. After a couple of shocks on stage I got one as a stopgap till I could afford something with a better reputation (samson akg etc). A few paycheques later and I still haven't upgraded as it works fine. yeah it changes the tone slightly, but the amp takes care of that. There's a small hiss, but the noisegate on the alesis 3630 i got from warwickhunt sorts that out (it's too faint to hear when i'm playing, I'd say it's about as noisy as my Zoom506II) Never had a signal dropout - furthest i've been is 80m from the stage. 16 chanels, not that i've needed to change (there's been no crosstalk whatsoever) but it's nice to know it's there. Until I get to try the high end stuff I'm gonna put my neck out and recommend one.
  9. [quote name='markytbass' post='279959' date='Sep 8 2008, 08:53 PM']Steven James Guitars in Middlesborough, good selection of new and used basses. Good customer service, friendly and helpful.[/quote] +1 here. I have to declare a Waynes World 'we are not worthy' moment when I realised he's [i]The[/i] Steve James. One of the bassists that made me wanna pick it up - Great guy. (plays a mean sax aswell)
  10. Could never stand Level 42 in the 80's but I was a total Metal-Head, so, given that everyone keeps going on about how good "he" is, and given that I listen to pretty much anything these days, i've just sat through the first 4 level 42 songs on youtube with a totaly open and objective mind and I can't honestly work out what the hype is about. He just sounds a bit too average to me. Saying that, respect for keeping the groove as tight as he does whilst playing and singing live, I just wish the groove had that "make me wanna dance" vibe.
  11. The best free notation software out there is [url="http://musettemusic.com/"]http://musettemusic.com/[/url] which will probably suit you fine if you want to paste jpeg's of a bar or two or three..... TBH I haven't used this for a long while, ever since I switched to Sibelius and started writing on a serious level, but I'm sure it'll be all you need. If you don't wanna go there or want a bit of a hand feel free to pm me. [edit - gonna start spellchecking [u]befeore [/u]I hit Submit one of these days]
  12. [quote name='Brave Sir Robin' post='268879' date='Aug 24 2008, 03:12 PM']first thing to do is send it to thomann [/quote] That was the first thing i did after posting here. It'll be interesting to hear why, if they bother responding. Maybe someone in marketing just put it up for a joke?
  13. I've been using thomann for about 4 years now, nothing but excellent service and cheep as chips prices... however whilst checking out a few prospective candidates for next months paycheque I saw this [url="http://www.thomann.de/gb/yamaha_trb1004_aqb.htm"]Yamaha TRB1004[/url]. Obviously that's not a real photo of the bass (unless Yamaha really fecked up the design). So why bother compositing a photo? If they didn't have the bass there to shoot then surely they could have got one from Yamaha? or is the headstock hideous and they think that this photo won't put punters off?
  14. [quote name='Oscar South' post='255637' date='Aug 5 2008, 07:08 PM']Good samples, but... How do you download these to disc? Right click/save target doesn't work (just tries to download an 'index.php' file) and clicking them just opens it in my browser where it can't even be looped.[/quote] you using a mac oscar? I just tried the same. right clicked and chose "download linked file as". In the box it was called "index.php". I cancelled that and then right clicked and chose "download linked file". That worked. I don't know if this is a mac thing.
  15. [quote name='synaesthesia' post='254905' date='Aug 4 2008, 11:46 PM']Technically this is not true. the AD/DA process has limits.[/quote] Yeah I know, just couldn't be arsed to go along that tangent as we're getting into the teratory that most people wouldn't hear the difference in a blind test.
  16. [quote name='synaesthesia' post='254005' date='Aug 4 2008, 12:27 AM']A compander compresses a signal so that it travels with ease an then expands the signal again upon reception. Effectively, it is the sonic equivalent of reconstituted food.[/quote] Yes, sorry, I didn't make myself clear (doing a lot of that recently... must try harder ) If transmitting over an FM wireless system then your dynamic range will be limited to that of the FM medium (which is pants), unless you use a clever bit of electronics that compreses your signal to a level that isn't affected by the limitations of FM radio then expand it back to give a closer aproximation to the original than would be acheived otherwise (which is still pants, but maybe smaller pants with a bit of frilly black lace around the edges). in this regard, most people would surely agree that companding the signal is the lesser of the two evils of that and not companding it. After reading a bit more into this (only a bit mind... I'm supposed to be working ) digital systems don't suffer from a restrictive dynamic range, and so shouldn't need companding anyway. I'd go as far as to assume that NO digital wireless system would use companders - what would be the point of adding to the production cost to make it sound sh*t? "no compander" on digital wireless... bit like putting "no flavourings" on bottled spring water isn't it? [edited, coz I can't spell aproximation... still looks wrong, but the spell checker says it's ok so there you go]
  17. [quote name='warwickhunt' post='253555' date='Aug 3 2008, 12:56 AM']With all due respect there is so much tosh in there that I don't know where to start![/quote] LOL. Go on then John, put me straight
  18. [quote name='ben1' post='252972' date='Aug 1 2008, 09:34 PM']Some years back when I were a nipper......me and the old man put a cab together, a combination of 2 Eminence speakers, and their trusty manual. It comprised a 15' and 10' speaker. Each is 100 w (certainly no more than 150w) at 8ohm. Both wired to the same jack socket. I seem to remember it sounded nice once upon a time with a borrowed Fender BXR 400....but that was some 16years ago so those memories may be somewhat rose tinted! Anyway, I finished my band not short afterwards and as a result never picked up a head for it. Now I'm back playing at last, and in the market for a head - any ideas what sort of power rating I should be looking for ? As I don't want to be gigging with a second cab, would it be worth wiring up an individual input for each cone? Cheers, Ben[/quote] I read that post as "what head should I use for my old cab that I built with my dad" rather than a general what head should I get question. so, if the drivers are 8ohm each and they're wired in parallel then the cab will be 4ohm, with a rating of somewhere between 200 and 300 W It's safest to buy a head rated at max 200W @ 4ohms, but the problem with this is that there just might not be enough grunt and then you'll be looking at buying a new cab AND a new head. As you can see from the other posts, 200W would be the absolute bare minimum that pretty much anyone on here would use. you could risk pushing as much as 300W through the cab, how hard you push it depends on how much heartache it'll cause if you blow a speaker. My suggestion - and I admit that it's a little risky - is that you get whatever head you like (forget about matching the power to the cab, check out the other threads here, there's loads of good advice which I won't attempt to replicate) When you next look at buying a cab then match the cab to the head, in the meantime just don't run the head at full whack so as not to blow your cab. A simple rule of thumb is that if your head's rated at 400 W then half way on the master vol will be about 200W. NOTE - THIS IS NOT ACCURATE, so care is needed. My head is rated at 450W, I have 2 cabs (300W each) sometimes i'll only gig with the 2x10 if it's a small venue, keeping the dial under halfway, and i've never had a problem.
  19. [quote name='dood' post='245651' date='Jul 22 2008, 09:20 PM']No Compander!!!!!! This I have GOT to hear!!! - Every wireless I have ever tried has let me down.. cos I am soooo fussy! Could this be something decent at last?[/quote] [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compander"]For those of you who like me had a "WTF is a compander" moment...[/url] Why wouldn't you want a compander? It seems to be used to give a better signal / noise ratio and to prevent the loss of dynamic range through radio transmision. both of these are good things aren't they? and 3ms? sh*t! I wish I could play so well that I'm less than 3ms out from the drummer Saying that, I'm no Audiophile, I use a t-bone wireless set (50 squids worth ) and i'm over the moon at how quiet it is compared to using a lead (maybe the lead was acting as a 20ft ariel) Have to say that I can think of better things to spend 400 notes on
  20. this could get confusing.... welome BTW
  21. Mr slow tonight... OK I get it... "i've got a 73p for sale SN 412347"... SN would check out as genuine... But what's to stop a scammer from nipping down to soundcontrol and writing a few sn's down on a fag packet?
  22. [quote name='spinynorman' post='249581' date='Jul 28 2008, 02:58 PM']I read something a while ago about why people do this (on any guitar, not just Fenders). I can't remember exactly what the potential fraud was, but I think it was along the lines that someone would claim the guitar had been stolen from them. It made reasonable sense when I read it originally. It was definitely a fraud against the seller, not someone using the SN to defraud others.[/quote] sounds a bit paranoid to me. OK, i'd like to state for the record that my 73P has been nicked. Serial no 412347. Even if I managed to knock up a photo of me with an identical bass I doubt very much that plod would just recover it for me... or would they??? :brow:
  23. [quote name='bass_ferret' post='243399' date='Jul 19 2008, 05:05 PM']Any you think that somebody who cant work out how to connect a cab to their amp is gonna be able to do all that He has already got a 4x10 that I presume he likes the sound of - whats the point in doing anything other than getting another one rather than replacing it with a hard to find 8 ohm 8x10. If, having read all of the excellent advice on this forum, you still cant work out how to connect a head and cabs, buy a combo.[/quote] lol. yeah, I kinda ignored the stated facts (i.e. the cab can run 2 x 4ohm 410's) and just went off on a tangent. I tend to do that Still, I wouldn't say that wiring three jack plugs and three pieces of wire into a triangle, then sticking it into a box is complicated, and doesn't justify the "all that" label so unfairly allocated by your good self [flounces off to watch TV]
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